Just get a Dodge Aries and be done with it.

Oh shit this thread is giving me a headache. Buy whichever one you want, it is your money. CW is a factor in many 2G's, I have checked a lot of them this year and over half were within .001" from being out of spec. That doesn't mean they won't run or indicate failure even, but they were well on their way to death. I wouldn't let that be the factor in why you buy a certain car though. If you are into these cars for serious performance reasons, you will be updating the motor anyway, 1G or 2G. If your goals are just to have a nice cruiser, it doesn't really matter what you get as long as you check it over before you buy it and maintain it properly. All cars have the potential for walking, not all at the same percentage, but there is no completely safe way to go.

I will take a 1G any day for tons of reasons and I am sure everyone has heard them before so I will save the keystrokes.

The white one John referred to as a QPR car, was just here for a wiring harness and lifters. We checked the end play on the crank just to give the owner a heads up. I wouldn't call it a QPR car though as beyond that and a clutch install before, we havn't had anything to do with it's buildup. His car is at the end of spec as well for CW, but still is running and probably will last at least this summer.

I think you may be on the wrong site ;)

And there really isn't a specific mileage at which time crankwalk occurs, if it ever does. And the "bottom end of the motor" doesn't "blow out" the crank play is a gradual death, evenually it starts tapping the crank angle sensor and causes problems there.

yes, not the biggest fan. But i do like the DSMs in general. I know about all that bullshit about the crank walk. And i do know 4 a fact that you know a hell of alot more about that car and motor than me. my bad

Didn't mean to offend you, I am just one of the guys that finds the fear of crankwalk pretty unreasonable...You already know that if you read the rest of this post ;)

In any case, welcome to the site!

Chris

no, u didnt offend me, but thanks anyways. Im just stating the 2gs do have a potential problem with crank walking. The DSM that i was talking about that blew up racing the M3, some how managed to blow the whole bottom end out of his motor. Which im sure is the worst case sinaro, and doesnt happen that often. thanks for the welcome. Ryan

Buy what you like and what you can afford, not what others like. It is your money, be happy with what you choose. Whatever car you buy, have a shop or DSM person check it out to make sure its all good.

I know exactly which video you are talking about, and it had absolutely nothing to do with crankwalk. The kid was just a fucktard...also it really doesn't matter what kind of car you drive, if you race it a lot something will eventually break.

Crankwalk isn't a huge deal. It affects about 20% of the modified 2g's at some point. Like Chris said, it doesn't matter the mileage. Get a 1g and call it good. It is lighter and has virtutally no posiiblity of crankwalk, and also takes more power stock. Excuse the typing, but I am hammered, right Andy? :P 1G''s Rule!! :3gears:

i know, and i am aware of the stress that is put on the vehicle. I barely ever beat on my car, well except when i deem necessary. Yeah shit can happen, and chances are that it will happen at the worst time possible. The more you dont take care of your vehicle and beat the hell out of it constantly, chances are that something stupid will happen. Take for instance, his shit blew up becuase he was bein a jackass, but thats the chance that u have too take when u modify and race your car.

1Gs are better mechanically fit and finish... 2Gs are pretty IMOP. :bj:

Buy what YOU like. Crankwalk is slightly overated. DSMTuners did a POLL and it was surprising how low the CW numbers really were. Each car has it's advantages/disadvantages. There are parts on the 1g which are better (intake manifold, throttle body, head, rods, etc.) and there are parts on the 2g which are better (pistons, MAF, exhaust manifold, O2 housing, etc.)

You can make over 400hp reliably if tuned correctly, I made 390-400whp on mine and it stayed together (until I took it apart ;) ). That would calculate out to about 460hp at the crank on a stock short block. My 7-bolt didn't crankwalk either (only had 59k when I pulled it, but the crank is still well within spec) and I had a CM 2500lb pressure plate on it.

As far as the oil squirter being a problem if they clogged up, it's actually the other way around. A clogged oil squirter would raise the oil pressure at the main bearing. A squirter that is stuck open would lower the oil pressure at the main bearing. Even so, no one has proven it's the cause. The 4g63 oil system is very good, so I doubt an open squirter could flow enough to kill the oil pressure.

what about the 1g 7bolts, what is the CW rate for those? is it less than the 2g 7bolts?

13.7292%

13.7292% of , whats the total? is that better then the 2gs?

Haha. Thats funny. Stop being so scared of crankwalk and just decide. ;) Its not a bid deal. Buy something that you like no matter what car. Make sure its on good condition and dont buy something that is junk. I doubt crankwalk will be one of your major issues anyway ever if you buy a dsm... There will be a whole lot more other issues youll have to play with if you start modding.

You will never find an accurate statistic portraying the crankwalk rate for 1G 7 bolts or 2G 7 bolts. It is simply not possible to accurately compile a data set about crankwalk because so many people think crankwalk caused their engine to die when it was actually some sort of other problem: mechanical, tuning, ....etc.

yeah i guess your right eclipseturbo. i want performance over looks so i guess im going to look for a 1g.

wait one more question. are the 1g 7bolt internals are better than the 2g 7bolt?