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Re: beaterX project thread
Anna was out of town for a few days so I took advantage of the extra set of wheels....took my car apart, dropped pipes off at Powder Keg over in St. Paul:
http://www.scheides.com/albums/evoX/...blackpipes.jpg I must say, I'm very pleased with the results! Primo I'm sorry but whatever you were using as 'wrinkle black' was not very wrinkly...this is what wrinkle's supposed to look like: http://www.scheides.com/albums/evoX/IMG_2649.sized.jpg (dirty engine bay added for fun, yay beater X!) http://www.scheides.com/albums/evoX/..._001.sized.jpg I'm kinda peaved with myself for being such a slacker...I couldn't be bothered to remove the LICP to get it to match but I couldn't be bothered and I wanted to keep this project cheap. So fuk it, here it is: http://www.scheides.com/albums/evoX/..._001.sized.jpg Also back on stock exhaust mani and good'ol stock heat shield for proving grounds! Car has half a tank of pump gas left in it then it's back to the corn for some fine tuning over the next few weeks. I sorta ignored the fact that one of the axle seals is leaking...it's been leaking for a while, do I just get a new boot and re-grease it, do I get a rebuild kit, or do I just get a whole new axle? Pricing ideas here: http://www.trademotion.com/parts/200...agramCallOut=1 Weigh in...apparently this is a common problem :( http://forums.evolutionm.net/evo-x-e...oot-leaks.html |
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Nice
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Looking good buddy!
Scared to run SA/U?!! lol Lot of work to swap manifolds, you must be in it to win it :) GL sir, routing for ya! No idea on your leak, I guess see what others say. |
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Like the powdercoating, how much was it?
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If you get the oem kind of cv boot straps I have the tool to crimp them. Other wise I have some other styles laying around i have used many times before
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SA class, you went to all that trouble?
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Wrinkle black, nice and clean. Looking good man.
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Looking great!
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wrinkle black looks good, especially in a black evo O_O!!
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Good god it's been *months* since I've updated this thread. BeaterX has continued to be my daily driver, I've had some maintenance issues mostly that I've been dealing with but otherwise I've just been having fun with it day in and day out!
Just before Proving Grounds I discovered that *all* of my inner CV boots were leaking. http://www.scheides.com/albums/evoX/IMG_2574.sized.jpg I cleaned off the clamps and look more closely and they were actually coming loose, allowing grease to slowly ooze out from the spinning force of the axle. http://www.scheides.com/albums/evoX/IMG_2662.sized.jpg Instead of making a massive stink and hoping mitsu would take care of it, I found a small almost needle fitting for a standard grease gun, some cv grease, and some crimp-style clamps. The old ones came off super easy and the new ones were extremely easy to install with the proper clamping tool. Once the car was up in the air it was literally a 20 minute job. http://www.scheides.com/albums/evoX/IMG_2696.sized.jpg http://www.scheides.com/albums/evoX/IMG_2772.sized.jpg http://www.scheides.com/albums/evoX/IMG_2770.sized.jpg The Saturday before Proving Grounds during a 3rd gear pull, the car began running like absolute garbage. MAF sensor was reading zero. $200 later I had a new one from Mitsu and the car was better but still a complete dog. I ripped the car half apart and could not figure out where this massive boost leak was coming from. Finally I popped off my cobb BOV and found this: http://www.scheides.com/albums/evoX/IMG_2681.sized.jpg It was cracked open, stuck. I overnighted the valve to Cobb and they overnighted it back, freshly rebuilt with the latest-spec seals and parts. Remember, this BOV was worth a solid 16-20whp over my crushed stock valve, and it is smooth as hell on the street, so I *really* wanted to keep it on the car. Backing up a second, when I was initially diagnosing the boost leak I was talking with Chris Carey @ MAP and he suggested an issue that *could* be showing up in some of their evox ef-series turbochargers with the wastegate. He offered me a replacement turbosmart WGA...I put both springs in it and put it on to no avail. http://www.scheides.com/albums/evoX/IMG_2672.sized.jpg http://www.scheides.com/albums/evoX/IMG_2673.sized.jpg THEN I found the BOV issue and got the car back together literally Friday 5pm and headed up to Proving Grounds at Breinard International Raceway. I had a crapload of fun, but I was having all kinds of problems making boost in various conditions...I was cutting 1.6 sec 60' times on the drag track but the car was only running 27psi or so and I'd run mid 12s at sub 120mph. Best runs I was able to get last year on the BBX was 11.6@123mph. Once I had boost on this setup holding 30psi (MBC cranked up) I cut a best of 11.8@124mph. I was very disappointed but moved on into the competition doing both autoX as well as drag in the stock appearing class. I ended up coming in 4th in both events. Drag times sucked day 2 as the car would just fall on its face off the line. I was logging every single run but could not figure out what was going on. http://www.scheides.com/albums/evoX/IMG_2718.sized.jpg While I was at the track, found this, gah! I took it out and the tire held pressure just fine, totally lucked out: http://www.scheides.com/albums/evoX/IMG_2722.sized.jpg After I got back, quick side project--added some stuff to quiet it down. This is GTMat, great stuff! http://www.scheides.com/albums/evoX/IMG_2882.sized.jpg http://www.scheides.com/albums/evoX/IMG_2905.sized.jpg http://www.scheides.com/albums/evoX/IMG_3055.sized.jpg http://www.scheides.com/albums/evoX/IMG_3067.sized.jpg Also came in 2nd place in the All-Mitsu Cookout EvoX category: http://www.scheides.com/albums/evoX/IMG_2902.sized.jpg I'm pissed at myself for not thinking of this during competition but when I got home I tested all sorts of things but the thing that I finally found that was wrong was the WGA pretension was basically gone. With no pretension, the car couldn't build boost and thus my issues at the track. :( Spoke with MAP again and we came up with a solution quickly. They've made it public now but my car received one of the first revised turbine/wastegate setups for their EF-series turbos: http://www.scheides.com/albums/evoX/IMG_3065.sized.jpg http://www.scheides.com/albums/evoX/IMG_3064.sized.jpg MAP busted their ass to get it to me and swapping it in was easy as pie--just yanked out downpipe (and swapped out the testpipe while I was at it with the one pictured above) and then unclamped the old turbine housing, swapped in the new one and re-assembled. I had the boost turned down so far that I hit 39psi on the first pull, oops... http://www.scheides.com/albums/evoX/IMG_3092.sized.jpg This is a real problem on the X....be very wary of your spark plugs! They're expensive but fragile because they are long and narrow. Replace regularly! After all that, went on our fall cruise and finally began prep'ing the car for our fall dyno day at Modern Automotive Performance. E70 must be back b/c the car is running very rich, high 9's or low 10:1 AFR. With all the new parts I got boost dialed in at 32psi and AFR at 11.3 across the board. Slapped it on the dyno with the same timing/mivec maps that Shane@DB Performance put on it in May and I can definitely say that the car rips! http://www.scheides.com/albums/evoX/...2012_fixed.jpg http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iQNT1B-29SE&hd=1 I found a small boost leak about an hour before the dyno day started but decided to just leave it...then I ended up bumping up the boost via the MBC while on the dyno..unfortunately I left error control on and WGDC dialed back boost to 31-30 up top...Peak WGDC on these runs is 80% so the car has a few more ponies in her but overall I'm VERY happy! It runs reliably and strong, all that's in store now is more maintenance, snow tires in a few weeks, and just keeping it on the road. My MAP stage 1.5 shortblock has about 21k miles on it now and is still nice and healthy, hopefully I can keep it that way! Thanks for reading! |
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Scheides nice meeting your yesterday and your car is pretty sick too!! keep her running buddy!! and keep us posted as well
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Scheides, you going to check our your bearings at all in the next 5-10k miles?
Or just rock this bitch until it has issues? |
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No reason to crack the motor open, it runs good, compression is good. I will leave it well alone and continue to monitor oil consumption/compression. |
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Even on 4g63 motors people seem to think built motors are only good for 40-50k miles and then they usually say bearing swaps are a good idea. I am guessing though that is because people assume people beat the shit out of built motors. Was just curious what your plans were so if I by some chance in hell make it that far I have an idea of what to do. |
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Scheides, what is your fuel setup? Just curious because it seems like I hear of other people always having issues with theirs, but not you.
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His is nice, simple and effective...no silly surgetanks, dual-pump hangars, etc. :)
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I have been trying to KISS.
The car has a standard Walbro 400 pump (non-e85) in the tank powered by a 30A BAP that's activated at ~3psi (whatever the default hobbs switch is in that kit). The return line siphon is drilled out to 2.8mm to help reduce base fuel pressure. That feeds stock lines up to the fuel rail, where I have a Boomba fuel rail (with a bent stock FPR) feeding FIC 1680cc injectors. On this setup I have base fuel pressure under 50psi and it's enough on real e85 to support 32psi across the board. The car idles, runs, and drives nearly perfect nearly all the time. I've had my fair share of issues...the FIC's I needed revised spacers and wiring adapters, my DW300 didn't do much more than a W255 would have, and I had problems getting my stock FPR to fit on the boomba fuel rail the way I wanted it to (all documented earlier in this thread if you ever feel like going waaay back). Also, at 1/3 tank or less WOT is risky--I can do a 2nd OR 3rd OR 4th gear pull, but anything like a 2-3-4 results in massive fuel starvation. On the cruise I took a risk and did hit 14:1 AFR at 8000rpm with four people in the car after a 2-3-4-5 pull. Others want to fix it (and I do too) but otherwise I just keep the tank above 1/2 tank if I really want to rip on it more than a full gear pull. The cup/basket that sits around the fuel pump simply runs empty too quickly...it's stupid but it is what it is. Making a larger (baffled) basket or moving to a surge tank is the way to go if you track the car or absolutely want to run WOT while it's on E but frankly I have no need so I don't bother or worry about it :) I've proven now that this setup is enough for me so I don't plan on changing it. If I do anything, it'll be to swap in a E85 version of the W400 but then my base fuel pressure may suffer. I'd consider ditching the BAP and installing a larger feed line as that seems to be working for murlo...I almost did it last summer but this setup has proven to be enough so I'm happy. |
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I think you make it way too simple (kracka). The only true perfect setups I have seen are surge tank setups and fuel cell setups. I am holding off as mine works great for my power as long as I keep it ~1/3 and up like Scheides said. But a bunch of the crap is just inherit to the X design. I will say my double pumper was much more complicated and didn't work nearly as well. I am glad Scheides' setup is working well though and it works well enough because he did keep it as simple as he could. still not straight forward for us E85 users making bigger power. |
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True true, I forgot about a lot of those little "extras" Scheides has into it...makes me content with my power level since my fuel setup is nothing more than a pump + injectors.
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I just noticed some of the pics weren't working...still a few missing after my server crashed this summer. I got a few re-added but I'm gonna have to go back and make sure everything is there....lmk if you find a post that's missing pics.
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oooh happy day! Car has been aweful noisy on cold starts and since the spark plug incident it began consuming oil. So today I decided to yank the valve cover off quicklike and measure the valve-tappet-to-cam clearances. Spec is .008" intake and .012" exhaust, both +/- .001.
I could not even get a .005" inbetween most tappets and the cam, all except one actually. Yippee skippee. The car still runs dandy and made 599whp at map's fall dyno day but honestly I'm worried about it. It seems as though there's an issue either with the valves or the valve seats. Either way I will be seeking second opinions and looking into options but likely I'll be pre-scheduling some machine-shop time, praying to the valve tappet gods (if they don't line up I'll have to order a bunch from mitsu...$20 each x 16 :P ), and yanking the head. If I do I might downgrade to some beehive springs (weren't available when I first built it) and I can't help but wonder about swapping in a set of S2's....decisions decisions. If I do pull it off I might swap out my (edit, wtf I guess I just stopped typing :P) |
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Any constructive ideas? |
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I'm impressed you measured the clearance at all! Do evoX even use HLAs? Can you reshim it back to spec?
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They use buckets or tappets. If tollerences were loose yea I could put in thicker tappets but they went the other way. I could try thinner tappets but I have no real way of measuring how much thinner I'd need to go w/o disassembling and re-assembling who knows how many times...I'm more concerned with how it got this way. I checked tollerences at 1000 2000 5000 and 10000 miles, all we're fine. Now it's at 21k and here we are. ComPression was fine last time I checked it (recently).
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Shim/tappet valves are a bitch. When I put the motor for my bike back together I think I had each of the 4 cams in and back out probably 4 or 5 times to get the clearances right (mostly cuz my math skills are horseshit).
Were these new valves? My understanding is that if anything is going happen to the valve clearance, it'll get tighter, since the valve essentially stretches out a little. My suggestion is to just go down a shim size at a time till it meets tolerances. It's a bitch, but it's the easiest way to get the tolerances right. I assume you have an assortment of shims? |
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Think this alone could be causing oil consumption though? I don't want to go through the massive PITA of swapping out tappets to only fix part of the problem.
Plus, I am not confident in what tappets I ended up leaving in the car so the tappet swap could turn into a huge nightmare. There's *47* different tappet sizes. http://i.imgur.com/TWQDAl.png |
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Not cool. I'm clueless on this subject so all I can do is wish you luck and hope for the best.
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Yikes.
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I kinda doubt that tight valve clearances would result in oil consumption, the only thing that could really do is make it so the valve doesn't seat with 100% pressure. Hhow much oil is it burning? Enough to smoke all the time? Only on startup?
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Joe nailed the reason, compressed valve seats probably. That shouldn't cause any issues with oil consumption though. It could allow some combustion pressure to leak back in to the intake or exhaust, but since your power isn't down it does not sound like that is happening.
For the oil it could be valve seals or rings. After your incident I would think rings/cylinder wall would be the most likely but it could be many different things. |
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The car is down slightly on power so I'm on board with the compressed valve seat theory;
Love second third fourth opinions though keep them coming please! |
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Time for a leakdown test?
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