Re: My "new" car/project.
 

I probably have nearly 30 hours into this since Friday after school.

I didn't feel like laying on the ground to get to the starter so I didn't do that part, everything for acc/run/start checked out with some lights I rigged up.

Everything electrical(except the wipers, I still need to figure that shit out) was connected and functioning. I used that to make a new set of notes. There was a couple of discrepancies between my original notes and the end result.

Everything is now stripped backed out of the car.

I wanted something to show for it so I finished what will be the front light harness. That is now in the car, secured and ready to be connected to relays(headlights/running lights) and the turn signal switch.

I still need to mount the fuse panel and relays, but, I already have a piece of aluminum bent up to mount them to and I know exactly where it's going in the car, I just didn't do it yet. I hope to have that and possibly the rear light wiring finished and installed tomorrow.

Re: My "new" car/project.
 

Text only updates are lame.

I have a ton of hours into this wiring project.

Today I have nearly everything finished. I need to get a couple of connectors and hook up the engine stuff, which is all of 7 wires including the senders for gauges and the starter/alternator.

The lights all work, including my indicators on the dash. The high and low beams are noticeably brighter now that they run through a relay instead of the full current through the headlight switch itself. -Even running off of the battery that is just sort of rigged up.

It's satisfying to hear the relays trigger that I added when turning on the headlights, running lights, or clicking the key to start.

I've not yet tied in the reverse light or neutral safety switches as they are part of the new shifter which will be a project all on it's own. I left provisions in the wiring to make this easy.

The same goes for the hazard switch, which is also a simple tie in. The leads are there, just not hooked to anything right now.

The fuse/relay panel. Not yet attached, but, exactly where it will sit on the firewall in the passenger footwell in the space that the old A/C coil used to occupy.

http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h1...pslpxkteqi.jpg

http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h1...ps570aptb8.jpg

It's not totally as clean as I wanted, but, the work involved to make all the runs exactly the same length just so the bend is the same for all of them simply isn't worth the time. I took those yesterday before I had everything connected.

This is how the wiring mess started, I hooked everything up with wire nuts and applied power to check everything out first. This was done without the relays.

http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h1...psfwystsha.jpg

http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h1...pszhckyesn.jpg

http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h1...psglfcooaq.jpg

http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h1...psiwmwrd8l.jpg


I'm quite fond of the new look from behind with the new tires.

http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h1...psrxg8d7kk.jpg

However, I 100% need to change out the studs in front, which I planned on doing anyway. Stock is M12x1.25, the rear is M12x1.5 which is much more common. When I pull the hubs again to swap the front rotors I'll take care of that, too.

The threads are only about half way into the generic short nuts I grabbed from the auto parts store.

http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h1...psbhzpwetj.jpg

Hopefully it's up and running tomorrow, which will be fun with no exhaust.

Oh, I still need to figure out the wiper thing. I have which lead does what from the switch figured out, but, that's as far as I got on that.

Re: My "new" car/project.
 

Amount of work on the car in the last two days = 6 fast and furiouses.

Re: My "new" car/project.
 

This thing is going to be nice when it's done!

Re: My "new" car/project.
 

That wiring looks like a nightmare but nice job on getting most of it sorted out!

My lazy ass would just use rainx on the windshield and call it good lol

Re: My "new" car/project.
 

Every time I see one of these wiring posts on a project thread it makes me want to mess with my harnesses even less. :lol:

Re: My "new" car/project.
 

If you can follow a wiring diagram and have a multimeter it's not a hard task, just tedious and time consuming.

Re: My "new" car/project.
 

Yea, that's the worst part for me. Kids take more time than anything ever. At least when they are young like mine. Add in my lack of patience, and crusty old 20 year old wiring vs new stuff? Yea, I'd rather just save up and skip the hassle. Wish I had the patience and time for that though!

Re: My "new" car/project.
 

I had it started and running, so that and all the lights check out.

Things left for this leg of the project:

1. Figure out the wipers
2. Mount everything to the car
3. Change out the temp/oil pressure senders for the Autometer ones.
4. Connect the Hazard switch-I have everything run, I just ran out of solder.
5. Connect power to the fan for heat/vent. Simple, I just need to find the plug thats in my mystery box of stuff cut from the car.
6. Wire in neutral safety and reverse switches. This is technically part of the shifter swap.

To mount stuff, I'm waiting on borrowing a rivetnut kit/tool as that's how I'm going to do everything, instead of nuts and washers.

Re: My "new" car/project.
 

I had use of a rivetnut kit over the weekend so I have the 3 distribution blocks and the fuse/relay panel mounted.

I wired up the hazard switch and blower motor.

I slightly changed the plumbing of the vents, it now will only blow out the center. The way it was the blower just didnt move enough air to come out the center and both sides(there was otherwise no way to block off any of the vents). I'd rather have it be stronger from one spot than weak from all of them.

The temporary wiring to get it started was cleaned up.

Autometer water temp and oil pressure sensors installed and wired up.

I now have the wiring for the wipers sorted. There will no longer be an intermittent setting, only Off-Low-High.

Re: My "new" car/project.
 

I pulled a valve cover to see which heads it actually has, which are crap by today's standards.

I'll be curious to see if they were re-worked at all. The still are not heads that came with the block. The heads were made from '68-'73 and the block is from '79.

Assuming a stock deck height and flat top pistons, the heads on it give ~9.7:1 compression which is up a bit from where anything in 79 would have been.

The issue is just that they don't flow well. I'm guessing this was someone's attempt in the 70's to make power, going along with the 70's vintage Edelbrock intake manifold.

From digging around, even with a cam(which would require lifters, springs, and a different converter), intake, headers, and the carb/timing setup properly it probably wont make much over 300.

I ordered new front suspension parts, not all of which is actually needed, but, it saves me from having to go through and replace everything that is probably 40+ years old.

About a month from now I'll have to actually make the decision on if I do the LS swap or not this winter, which will probably involved going past the budget I set for myself for the car this winter.

Re: My "new" car/project.
 

New wheel studs from ARP and open ended lug nuts on the way, along with the front suspension parts.

Looks like I'll be spending next week/weekend changing out all of the front stuff and installing the new front brakes that I've had sitting around for more than a month now.

Re: My "new" car/project.
 

I vote LS

Re: My "new" car/project.
 

Nice, a fellow veteran. This thing looks insane.

Re: My "new" car/project.
 

Wiring is now 99% complete. I just need to add a spade terminal for the fan relay control wire and wire the dome light, which needs a bulb first.

I pulled the stock gas tank and all the related parts.

I also pulled the stock rear bumper.

I'll be trying to sell all the stuff I took out to fund the LS swap.

Re: My "new" car/project.
 

Welp, I decided an LS swap just isn't going to happen this winter.

I could do it, but, it would cut into my summer budget(events and stuff).

Instead, and assuming the shortblock is fine, throw heads/cam/intake/headers on the 350, which can be done for ~$1500, including a new torque converter.

This is about $1000 less than the LS swap would cost, once you add in all the little things.

Who knows, maybe I'll depart from the past and just be happy with a quick street car to drive around for awhile.

Anyway, step 1 is rebuild the Holley, I've had the kit since I had to pull the secondary bowl when the float got stuck.

It's a generic 600CFM vacuum secondary, which should continue to be fine for my setup.

http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h1...psbevj2dg0.jpg

http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h1...ps01j6next.jpg


I found this right away, and I'm pretty sure I didn't do it taking it off the motor.

http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h1...psybqc6gqe.jpg

That rubber cap is under the bowl so I never noticed it even existed. The cap was brittle and falling apart.

I already disassembled the thing(gogo internet). In the process I found that the diaphragm for the secondaries would not hold vacuum, like at all.

Amusingly, I ordered a new one from amazon which shipped from Wisconsin and will be here tomorrow.

So, at best they were only ever partially open. I'm sure that's why it felt like it would fall on it's face.

The spring in the secondary was changed at some point in the past. I bought the different housing that lets you change the springs without pulling everything apart, too. It was a whole $18.



I probably could have just went to an autoparts store and bought one, but, I was buying some other stuff from amazon anyway.

Today my goal is to have everything cleaned up and re-assembled.

After that or tomorrow I'm going to drain the coolant and pull the head on the driver's side(since it's easier to do) to see what the walls and pistons look like.

Re: My "new" car/project.
 

I had the carb back together yesterday. Now it has new gaskets needle/seats etc.

The diaphragm came today, but, the quick change housing for the thing wont be here until tomorrow.

I pulled the intake then the exhaust and head from one side of the motor.

There is still a faint cross hatch on the walls. There is no carbon ring at the top of any of the 4 exposed cylinders.

I know there was very little use between when the swap was done in 1990 and now just based on the overall condition of things and the tires that were on it when I bought the car. It would appear that in the 11 years between 1979 and the swap there wasn't a whole lot of use on the shortblock, either.

It has flat top pistons, which is good. There is only minimal carbon on top of the 4 that are exposed, which is also good.

Due to the 1979 date of the block there was some risk of it having dished pistons for mega-low compression.

With a thin head gasket and the 64cc chamber heads I'm going to get it will bump compression to about 10:1.

From digging through the past few years worth of relevant articles from Hot Rod/Super Chevy etc it should make enough power to be plenty fun for the summer.

Re: My "new" car/project.
 

The carb is back together.

My stuff from Japan showed up, and just had to quick throw two of the fender flares on with tape.

I'm quite impressed with the fit/finish of the pieces. The flares are made to very closely follow the body lines of the car. Nearly all of the ones available in the US are much more generic.

There are no voids in the fiberglass on any of the pieces and everything is sanded smooth with not a rough edge to be found.

My front suspension stuff will be here next week. Once I throw that in I can play with getting the car to sit where I want and then put on the flares.

I don't know how much that will actually matter in the end, as there is certainly a sweet spot where the flares follow the contours of the car just right.

http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h1...psu7wmdqhn.jpg

http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h1...psttqc7jlt.jpg

http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h1...ps2xzoqumm.jpg

Re: My "new" car/project.
 

The last of my suspension stuff came today.

http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h1...psaeiakibn.jpg

Front coilovers/control arm/TC rod. All of which is now adjustable. The only adjustment in the OEM Datsun stuff is toe.

The setup uses the same Koni damper that I have in the rear.

Now there is a 225lb/in spring in front and 250lb/in spring in the rear. They're generically a 2.5"x10" coil front and rear which makes for a lot of options should I feel the need to change rates.

Stock arm vs new:

http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h1...psai0eekcd.jpg

As part of changing the front, the wheel studs also needed to be changed. I was someone worried about this since the current studs have been in there since the factory, nearly 42 years ago.

To my surprise they came out quite easily.

http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h1...pskdvxx3b2.jpg

I already had new ARP ones, which are much longer and also M12x1.5 to match the rear. OEM was M12x1.25.

I had the new studs in the freezer, with the hope it would make install easier. I don't know if it made a difference, but, it was pretty easy going.

http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h1...ps5iqlsdge.jpg

Now that I have all the parts I can also throw in the brake swap that I've had sitting around for a couple of months now.

This involved separating the disk from the hub, there are 4 bolts and it's sort of press fit on. This also came apart without drama, I expected things to be corroded together because well, it's brakes.

http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h1...ps4fteneqn.jpg

Im not super into the drilled/slotted thing, but, that's the only way they come with this kit.

I finished one side of the car. I could have worked on it solid and probably finished the second side today too, but, there's no hurry.

http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h1...psl9mo7ij4.jpg

vs old:

http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h1...psqpwp2n4h.jpg

I did have to clearance the dust shield or whatever it's called so the bigger caliper would fit, the backing plate of the inner pad also needs to be clearances slightly(not actually near the pad material itself). Pretty minor modification for OEM brakes from another brand that otherwise bolt right up.

Re: My "new" car/project.
 

Tits! You get your flares mounted permanently yet?

Re: My "new" car/project.
 

No, that wont happen until either the first or last weekend of spring break since I need my Dad to borrow a welder from work.

I didn't do it yet because I needed the front suspension changed so I can play with the ride height.

Re: My "new" car/project.
 

The second side came apart just as easy as the first.

Here is the machined spacer to make the offset of the rotor correct. IIRC they are the same rotors for a 300zx.

http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h1...psxmfgzmsp.jpg

Some comparisons.

Stock caliper vs the Toyota ones:

http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h1...psbowffvda.jpg

http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h1...psx72jjacz.jpg

Second side complete:

http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h1...psdytpxhbj.jpg

On the ground. I think it will probably sit about where it is for final ride height. I can always drop it down for the "MOAR LOW" if I for some reason feel the need to wear a flat bill and try to look cool.

This leaves me with about 2-3" of bump travel before getting into the bump stop, and about as much droop. These cars have a surprising amount of wheel travel.

http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h1...pscpzehchd.jpg

http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h1...ps5uz6cur2.jpg

Re: My "new" car/project.
 

Project is coming along!!

Re: My "new" car/project.
 

I've had an engine apart before exactly one time, when I was 18 and in High school. Mostly, it was a family friend that did the work while I sort of tried to learn what was going on.

I have it written down somewhere, but, the iron heads that were on it were a 70cc chamber with small valves.

The Cam was a copy of one of the early performance cams that came from GM.

It was topped with an Edelbrock Streetmaster intake that I guess they only sold in the late 70's.

With help from Weggy, it wasn't that bad to pull out and only took maybe an hour since I pretty much had everything already disconnected.

http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h1...ps0bklpuid.jpg

The Datsun has a surprising amount of room for the engine/trans. It's just too bad that the steering shaft is in a weird spot. It basically ensures that no long tube headers will fit, short of a custom set. There was once a specific set make by Hooker that is NLA.

http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h1...psrvjizqx1.jpg
Soaked with degreaser:

I ended up with a Comp XE284H, Victor Jr, and Promaxx heads.

The castings for the heads look nice.

http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h1...psnpzduorw.jpg

http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h1...pstfiglrtz.jpg

http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h1...ps32etebeb.jpg

Pile of Comp stuff with a bottle brush hone and new rings.

http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h1...pscaejttsd.jpg


After running the bottle brush hone through it. There was no carbon ring at the top of the bores and there was still a very faint crosshatch from whenever this thing was apart before.

It was already .040 over.

After running the hone through:

http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h1...psm5qx88br.jpg

The bearings looked ok, so I just put it back together with the same ones in it. Once I had it back together it sat at ~35psi of oil pressure at warm idle@900-1000rpm with 30wt break in oil.

I guess the Streetmaster was the first single plane designed by Edelbrock, so I took a picture of it next to the Vic Jr.

http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h1...psvbhsn0ho.jpg

I copper spray'd steel shim gaskets for the heads when I put it back together. I didn't actually CC the pistons(flat tops w/valve reliefs) at TDC(.026 in the hole) or the chambers, but, by math it should be just 10.2:1. When I plugged in the cam, to a calculator it gave me just under 7.8:1 for DCR.

http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h1...ps64uigfyz.jpg

It ended up not being worth the wait time/cost of the tool, but, I did actually buy a pushrod length checker. It's like a regular pushrod, but, you can adjust it's length. You color the valve stem tips with sharpie and put on the rocker arm/lifter/pushrod and turn it over by hand, you want the witness mark to be in the middle 1/3 of the valve stem.

http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h1...psmotcxjyo.jpg


A 3500 stall converter went between the motor and trans when I put it back together.

It actually slid right back into place so easily that I had it bolted up alone before my Dad got home to help me.

http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h1...ps9pge02p4.jpg

Now, everything was fine and dandy and I was going to fire it up the next morning, which was a Sunday. Until I found this in the HEI. Noticed when I went to swap the 4/7 plug wires since the comp cam changes the firing order.

http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h1...ps4kmszg6w.jpg

http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h1...psbwua3qau.jpg


I put about 5000 miles on the car last summer, including driving it back to MN from VA. I never noticed an issue or any misfires.

I just bought the summit HEI rebuild kit.

It was so loud in the garage, my phone didn't like it. I threw the cast ram-horns back on, with some cheap ass glass packs shoved onto where I sawzall'd the old exhaust off. I figured it might help not piss off the neighbors too bad, since I live in a cul-de-sac.

It fired right up and per comp and the internet I kept it at 2000-2500 rpm for about 30 minutes to wear the lifters into the cam. I did get a pre-luber and used that first, before then throwing the HEI in and starting it.

The video is after that was finished with.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BK_PCRBU2RE&hd=1

There were no rogue noises from the motor at all, which left me quite pleased with myself. I still need to figure out what to do about headers. The cast manifolds will not be staying.

I know I should have changed the oil right away, but, I didn't think that through to have oil or a new filter on hand. I intend to cut the filter that was on there apart to inspect it.

I don't have the fuel cell installed yet so I just ran some hose into a fuel jug.

Lastly for this round of stuff, I got the shifter mounted. It had some B&M thing in it before, that had no neutral lockout or gear indicator.

I had bought the cheap ratchet from Amazon and got shipped the Stealth, which they told me to just keep.

http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h1...psftgcvtcb.jpg

The console is honestly pretty fugly. I'm thinking about buying a small sheet of carbon fiber to use as a trim panel to cover up the hole to make it look better. But, that has nothing to do with the function of the car so it can wait. I still need to take the cover back off of it to hookup the neutral safety and reverse light switches.

The next project is probably mounting the fuel cell.

Re: My "new" car/project.
 

Work faster!!! :lol:

Re: My "new" car/project.
 

What else is needed to make it road worthy?

Re: My "new" car/project.
 

How the hell was the ls swap not cheaper then rebuilding that motor? Lol. Should be a nice setup for a year or 2. Motor should make good power with those heads and cam. Good work. Can't wait to see this thing in person.

Re: My "new" car/project.
 

Exhaust, driveshaft, install the fuel cell and flares.

It was less than half as much, and should keep me happy for a couple years.

Which will give me time to pick up a motor and have it setup for full-retard power.

Re: My "new" car/project.
 

Wow, awesome progress! Those wheels and tires make the car. Love all the mods so far, this thing is going to be sweet.

Re: My "new" car/project.
 

I've been super busy trying to get the car done, and have neglected all of the build threads I have.

I have been taking pictures along the way, however, they were on my old phone, which I dumped to a thumb drive before getting a new one. Now I'm not sure where that thumb drive is.

Anyway, I finished the headers, exhaust, and fuel cell.

I started with some cheap off the shelf headers for a camaro I think and had to modify them to fit. I ended up buying a box of 1-3/4" bends and going to town. I had to change one primary on the passenger side and three on the driver side to clear a suspension mount and the steering shaft. The steering shaft actually passes through the header.

The exhaust I made, too.

It has two 3.5" dynomax bullet mufflers on the header collectors, mostly to act as a collector extension and partially to try and drop a little noise.

Then it reduces down to 2.5", goes through an X-pipe, and ends up going through two 2.5" summit turbo mufflers.

Based on what I can find, 2.5" is more than enough for the power it will make.

I bought a set of universal ceramic boot plug wires since three of them are very close to the headers, I cut those to length and got that job done today as well.

I had it running today for the first time with a full exhaust and the first time with fuel in the fuel cell instead of just running a hose to a gas can.

It's a 16gal RCI fuel cell. I ran -8AN line through a filter and up to the mechanical fuel pump on the motor. Eventually, this should become the return line when I have a boosted LS motor in the thing.

I cut out the floor/spare tire well in the back and made a frame out of 1" square tube that the straps hang from to secure it.

I made a template for the floor and I should have that cut out for me by the weekend, I'm also having a box made to cover the top of the cell with an access panel to fill the thing. This will keep the fuel totally outside of the passenger compartment.


When I find the pictures I'll upload and post them.

For now anyway:


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dt51yYDZl_o&hd=1


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7B0AQlLxA28&hd=1

Re: My "new" car/project.
 

Stuff left to do:

Acquire and weld in the sheet metal to complete the rear floor then put the interior panels back in.

Get a drive shaft.

Tidy up/complete misc wiring that I left long until everything else was done.

Bleed brakes and possibly adjust the booster->MC pushrod.

Alignment

Cut out and patch the rust spots on the driver's floor.

Figure out why the switch in the shifter for the reverse light is staying closed(so the lights are constantly on). The neutral safety works as expected.

Re: My "new" car/project.
 

Good progress!

Re: My "new" car/project.
 

I got the sheet metal and the box for the rear floor/fuel cell cover and borrowed the rivet nut tool for the weekend, so I'll have that all knocked out in the next couple of days.

Re: My "new" car/project.
 

I'm really shit at keeping with the updates it seems. I'll have pictures up later tonight. I had a driveshaft made on Friday. Was ~$280 with tax from Proven Force. That was the last missing piece to take it for a drive.

It's getting close.

My to-do list:

Check all new fitting connections. Fuel/trans/brakes/coolant.

Set preload on front wheel bearings-Need to buy cotter pins.

Bleed Brakes.

Adjust Booster->MC pushrod.

Re-Install exhaust.

Wrap up wiring. Dome light and +12v to cigarette lighter for cell charger.

Sand the seam sealer on rear fender arches and paint bare metal.

Modify carb. -Remove and drill two holes in butterflies for idle.

Set timing. I need to buy a timing tape for the damper.

Mount battery box.

Make access hatch for fuel cell. I have sheetmetal and piano hinge.

Alignment.

Proceed to coat quarter panels with rubber.

Re: My "new" car/project.
 

Test drive is a socket for the axle nuts and brake bleeding away.

Re: My "new" car/project.
 

I've put about 350-400 miles on the car. I made it to the July Cars and Coffee with the car.

Bleeding the brakes didn't go well as Wilwood did a shitty job machining the spacer between the two halves of one of them. I disassembled the caliper and corrected it.

I will need to eventually install the proportioning valve that I have to add some bias to the rear. Really, it will just replace the OEM one that I left on there to see what would happen. The way OEM is set up doesn't seem to throw enough pressure at the rear. It is designed around small disk brakes in the front and drums in the rear afterall.

Even without fixing that, it definitely stops way better than it did before.

I should probably take it some where for a real alignment, right now it is done with a tape measure and a level. In doing so, I didn't have the steering wheel completely straight which is somewhat annoying. I can let go of the wheel and it will track straight, it's just turned slightly right of center.

On a warm day(above 85° or so) it was getting hot. A tad above 210° even with the heater on.

I bought an aluminum radiator to replace the stock 42 year old one which showed up on Thursday. However, I've still not been able to test it. I was having issues getting the water neck to seal which was all pitted from either shitty casting or just being old.

A new one will show up on Sunday.

The fan shroud is now sealed to the radiator and the radiator to the core support. I've also blocked all the random holes in the core support so all the air from the front of the car is forced through the radiator.

I changed out the wiring for the electric fans to a heavier gauge as well, what was there seemed a bit light considering it needs to carry 20-30 amps for the fan.

I'm sure at least part of the problem is that the headers give off a ton of heat, which I'm not really going to do anything about this summer. They will likely be sent off to be ceramic coated this coming winter.

I made a bracket today so I could hook the kickdown cable for the trans back up to the carb. In doing so I found that the throttle cable wasn't adjusted properly. Pedal to the floor didn't actually translate to WOT at the carb, I'd guess it was 20-25% short. Even like that, it goes pretty good.

It seems to be happy with how the timing is set, and the curve from the parts I had for the distributor. Carb tuning needs to happen as well, but, it pulls clean to 6k in any gear. I'm going to convert the secondary side of the carb to jets, then I'd like to head out to a track and make passes and play with jetting. I don't know how much BIR lets things slide on Wednesday nights as far as being NHRA legal goes, as some things right now are not and/or wont be changed until next winter.

Hopefully on Sunday I can go for a drive and see if the changes paid off for cooling.

Re: My "new" car/project.
 

Wed night tech is pretty loose unless it's a relocated battery. It must have the vented box/shutoff and all that. That's the only thing I ever really seen them enforce.

Re: My "new" car/project.
 

Welp so much for that then.

Re: My "new" car/project.
 

Why? What's the current battery situation?

Re: My "new" car/project.
 

My friends cobra had theirs mounted in the back. No cutoff just a vented box and they light him run it