Pull the tranny and put a thin washer behind the pivot ball.

or if you have tiny fingers and good tools you should be able to do it thru the inspection shield and the fork hole... might take same time and be more frustrating but beats taking the trany out ;)

-E

To check the pedal assembly, I believe all you have to do is push the cluch to the floor, take your foot off it and see if you can pull the pedal up higher. If you can pull it up furthur, then I believe the assembly is worn out.

My car hasn't been driven since something broke. Seems as if I almost have to kick the firewall to get it to fully dissengage. Mine is way the hell up there also. I am about out of adjustment. Good luck. Did you just replace the TOB?

I didnt replace the TOB because I looked throught he inspection hole and it looks intact and doesnt make any more grinding noise. The noise I heard was actually the slave rod scraping against the fork in that little divit.

I tried pulling on the pedal after it is fully let out and it doesnt move so does that factor out a bad pedal assembly? As soon as I move the pedal down even in the play section the master rod does move inwards and then once you reach pressure it is just in further... so its like there isnt enough pressure in the system to have full pressure throughout the pedal travel.

Also I bought a mitsu slave cylinder and the bleeding screw is so small and in the way that I cant fit any size 10 wrench in there. I had to bleed it by just using a long socket over the fitting and just bled it by letting it drip out of the fitting. Can air get sucked back in at all? We push the pedal down open the fitting, let it drip and then close it and release the pedal.

I tried switching slave rods from the 1/4 longer to the stock and that made it worse.

You really think that pivot ball is the problem? And no I dont think you can even get to it through the inspection hole.

TIA

I could fit a wrench on mine even with my scattershield in the way. I did it from the top of the car. Air cannot be sucked back in unless somone takes their foot off the clutch while the vavle is still open. Try bleeding it from the top and use a hose on it. Then you can see if air bubbles are still coming out.

Well no luck.... I tried eveything short of taking the tranny off and nothing helps.

SO.. tranny comes out this week if I dont sell it before that. GRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR :headache: :headache: I quit.

I had that problem on my 97 GST.. Took it in to the shop, turns out that both slave and master cylinder needed to be replace. :goodluck:

Just to through it out there... Maybe the rubber hose had a partial failure. All of the heat cycles ext maybe weakend it and it bulges out a little when you start to push it. It happens to brake lines. Time to upgrade to a stainless, maybe.

I gots the stainless :cry:

Me too :(

Me too :( [/b][/quote]
I said the same thing almost 2 months ago :jammin:

I am talking about DSMs.

Well I got my transmission out today. To me there doesnt seem to be anything majorly wrong with it at all.

The fork looks ok, some wear where the pivot ball goes but nothing drastic.

The ball is shiny and only has 1 little rougher spot but its still round.

Im stumped, next the pedal assembly comes out.