Originally Posted by Halon (Post 418741)

I know we live in a world today where on the internet, anything smaller than a 61mm is "small". Forget that bullshit, a 62mm is a fairly large turbo to 99% of us. That turbo is going to shift your power band quite a bit to the right. Add in a SMIM, not sure what you're reading but that will also likely move your power band even more right. Add in larger cams, more right. Add in some tubular manifold instead of the short runner cast one (that EVERYONE is telling you to keep but for some reason you have a hard-on for tubular), and that may move it a tad more right.

By the time you're all said n done, I would predict your setup to hit 30psi around 5k+ RPM. I say that because that's about where my similar setup on my Talon hit 30psi (built 2.0, T3 tubular mani, S362, JMF intake, 272 cams). It's a world of a difference from a 16g as far as lag goes. Which may very well have a negative affect on how "enjoyable" the car is to drive. And this is EXACTLY why all of us are saying to stick with the FP manifold, and go with as small of a turbo that reaches your power goals.

Kerry on here had an FP manifold, and a bolt on SCM61, he out-spooled me and kept up up-top.

Originally Posted by Yiddie (Post 418758)

I just don't wanna do a build that's built to handle over 600whp and only put down 500whp.. yea know what I mean?

Originally Posted by Yiddie (Post 418759)

And I guess another hiccup I'm trying to figure out is.. Which is better for around 600whp, A built 2g or a built 1g head?

Originally Posted by Shane@DBPerformance (Post 418762)

2G

Originally Posted by Shane@DBPerformance (Post 418761)

There is a big advantage to doing that though.

Originally Posted by Yiddie (Post 418771)

What do you mean exactly?

Originally Posted by Halon (Post 418765)

600hp on what dyno? Kerry made over 600hp dyno-jet on an FP manifold and a regular old SCM61, think it was internally gated too.

Something else about tubulars. They look cool and all, but it also comes with some unwanted complexity. Rather than 4 bolts on top of the manifold, easy to get to, to attach/remove the turbo, you now get to deal with 4 bolts underneath, that are a pain to get to. They might come loose so you have to go under there with an allen or whatever to tighten. installing the nuts to attach the mani to the head, depending on the manifold that can be a PITA. You will likely have no heat shield.

At least in my experience, the more I mod and put in aftermarket stuff, the more I appreciate OEM quality and designs. And the more I appreciate keeping things simple. Not always the case obviously, but often the case in my experience so far.

Just my point of view I guess, everyone will have their own. Good luck to you whatever path you choose.

Originally Posted by Super Bleeder!! (Post 418772)

He means if you build a drivetrain that can support 600hp and then only run 500hp through it you'll likely end up with a reliable machine.

Originally Posted by Halon (Post 418775)

600awhp at DB is serious power, close to 700hp at MAP (dynojet).

I don't know a ton about the PTE billet stuff. But if they make a bolt-on housing for the billet 58mm, I personally think that would be a killer street setup. Alternative options might be the BW S200 series. I believe they make an S256 and an S258/59 that are available in bolt on housings as well.

Originally Posted by Yiddie (Post 418787)

fp mani, maybe a 5858dbb turbo with a wet kit? direct port nitrous? lol