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As far as 1G's walking, Jet's walked, more than likely build error, and a friend of mines walked, his name is Travis. Tom's car did not crankwalk, and like I said I haven't heard of one in MN walking until now. So out of the thousands in Minnesota you have heard of one? I still think the odds are in favor of not walking. Still don't understnad how it is easier to work on a 1G, they are the same engine! The only thing I can think of would be a tranny swap, which is supposedly easier on a 1G. Also many of the parts are interchangeable, including fuel pumps, clutches, turbos, fuel injectors, and a lot more. Again not seeing how 1G parts are cheaper... And like I said in the previous post, until the point where you upgrade the turbo a 1G with the same mods will be faster... Chris |
1g parts are cheaper as we don't always have to pay for the sexy name when purchasing things (hks, greddy, etc.). As far as easier to work on, I was referring to the tranny swap, clutch, headgasket (ARP's) which should be done on any car than wants to go "fast". I quote Mike (AKA) raptor on this one, "When buying a 2g, first hold a 2600 clutch disk up to it. It will crankwald at first sight." If you think that 1g's crankwalk just as easily as 2gs, you are stupid. Just because you don't hear of all the 2gs walking in the bubble of your life doens't mean it happens. Especially when you start to mod them. Look around on other forums and see which cars actually crankwalk.
Back on topic. If you are buying this car for all out performance, get a 1g. If you are going to go race only, buy a shell. That will save you alot of money. |
I'm really not sure what you are smoking, maybe you're just ignorant, but any part you can get made for a 1G can either be made for a 2G or already is. Name a part for a 1G that is cheaper than the 2G version, please humor me...
I didn't say 1G crankwalk as often as 2G's, I'm making a point that it can happen to any car and IMO should not be a factor in buying a DSM as it doesn't happen as often as you 1G guys make people think. And you would think being a member of almost every DSM site out there for the past three years, including DSMlink forums which is almost exclusively a 2G site, I would have heard of more. But hey what do I know? And if you want to throw down against my 2G this year, I'm down. It's mostly stock ;) Chris |
If you plan on spending everything you have on a car ($5000 as stated above) having to by another engine (because of CW) should be taken into consideration. Mike at QPR can check it to make sure it is in spec.
I will let you know when I can afford to have my car go all race with the $20g in my engine bay. I am sure there will be several 1g's that will beat you this year however. My lack of funds is holding me back. I will race you however. Cost wise, we will go with the first mod that should be done to a dsm. A k & n filter. RRE sells a 2g kit for $120. A 1g filter can be purchased at checker for $40. |
Get a 3G, they rule.
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Cannot count factory parts as then you can go with 1g head, bov, block, turbo as upgrades for a 2g. 1g upgrades would be 2g MAS ($40) and a exhaust manifold ($100).
Where are you finding 2g upper ic pipes cheaper? I jsut checked out Extreme and buschur. Extreme has them at the same price and Buschur has a 1g at $250 and a 2g at $300. |
The Dave Brode uicp is ultra cheap for the 2g.
Anyway, go for the 1G. They're good times. |
I find it hilarious how scared you are of crankwalk, it's like you assume it is going to happen! No matter what you do, if you buy a 2G it's going to walk...
Like I said, I had one and it didn't walk, perfectly in spec. Yes I did have a 2500 lb clutch as well! And guess what, I just bought another one, and it didn't walk! The timing belt took out this motor. And you are reffering to hacking your aircan and using a factory replacement fliter. Sure you can't do that to a 2G, there is no Ghetto air filter option :stick: My K&N kit cost $80, not sure what you are looking at... By the time you need to replace a 7 bolt engine, you would be replacing a 6 bolt to go with built internals anyways. Chris |
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My car is going to CW.
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i am thinking of getting a 2.3 stroker kit later on. so would the motor matter after that?
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Personally, if i was going to build an engine i would build a 6 bolt. 7 bolts do CW more, its a fact. Parts price wise, they are about equal. With a 1g you will have to do some upgrades, like the MAS, Manifold etc that 2gs came with stock. But same deal with the 2gs. If i was going to put the money required into building up an engine i would hate myself forever if i did it in a 7 bolt and it walked. Most 7 bolts will never walk, but some will. Same with 1gs, but they very rarely walk.
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so no matter what crankshaft you have if its a 7bolt it has a greater chance to walk?
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Crankshaft its not really a factor. Its the oil squirters in the 7 bolt.
Here is how I understand it. Correct me if I'm stupid: The oil squirters can get clogged and the crank does not get enough oil. The the oil film around the bearing breaks down and you get fucked. |
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everyone in the know has realized its actually leprechauns..........evil ones.......looking for gold in the thrust bearings
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My truck crankwalked.
Now have 4k in my wallet. What should I buy Eclipse RWD Turbo or Eclipse VTEC. Please help. |
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That is some funny shit! And yes I would not spend money building a 7 bolt 4g63, even with very small chances of Crank walk...Thats why you build a 7 bolt 4g64 ;) And if you are going 2.3 later on you will need a different crank pistons and rods anyways. With a 2G you would have to buy a 6 bolt block ~ $150 or so. Chris |
Are they all out of the VTEC RWD Eclipses?
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