Wait, What?

As far as 1G's walking, Jet's walked, more than likely build error, and a friend of mines walked, his name is Travis. Tom's car did not crankwalk, and like I said I haven't heard of one in MN walking until now. So out of the thousands in Minnesota you have heard of one? I still think the odds are in favor of not walking.

Still don't understnad how it is easier to work on a 1G, they are the same engine! The only thing I can think of would be a tranny swap, which is supposedly easier on a 1G.

Also many of the parts are interchangeable, including fuel pumps, clutches, turbos, fuel injectors, and a lot more. Again not seeing how 1G parts are cheaper...

And like I said in the previous post, until the point where you upgrade the turbo a 1G with the same mods will be faster...

Chris

1g parts are cheaper as we don't always have to pay for the sexy name when purchasing things (hks, greddy, etc.). As far as easier to work on, I was referring to the tranny swap, clutch, headgasket (ARP's) which should be done on any car than wants to go "fast". I quote Mike (AKA) raptor on this one, "When buying a 2g, first hold a 2600 clutch disk up to it. It will crankwald at first sight." If you think that 1g's crankwalk just as easily as 2gs, you are stupid. Just because you don't hear of all the 2gs walking in the bubble of your life doens't mean it happens. Especially when you start to mod them. Look around on other forums and see which cars actually crankwalk.

Back on topic. If you are buying this car for all out performance, get a 1g. If you are going to go race only, buy a shell. That will save you alot of money.

I'm really not sure what you are smoking, maybe you're just ignorant, but any part you can get made for a 1G can either be made for a 2G or already is. Name a part for a 1G that is cheaper than the 2G version, please humor me...

I didn't say 1G crankwalk as often as 2G's, I'm making a point that it can happen to any car and IMO should not be a factor in buying a DSM as it doesn't happen as often as you 1G guys make people think.

And you would think being a member of almost every DSM site out there for the past three years, including DSMlink forums which is almost exclusively a 2G site, I would have heard of more. But hey what do I know?

And if you want to throw down against my 2G this year, I'm down. It's mostly stock ;)

Chris

If you plan on spending everything you have on a car ($5000 as stated above) having to by another engine (because of CW) should be taken into consideration. Mike at QPR can check it to make sure it is in spec.

I will let you know when I can afford to have my car go all race with the $20g in my engine bay. I am sure there will be several 1g's that will beat you this year however. My lack of funds is holding me back. I will race you however.

Cost wise, we will go with the first mod that should be done to a dsm. A k & n filter. RRE sells a 2g kit for $120. A 1g filter can be purchased at checker for $40.

Get a 3G, they rule.

Maybe so, but there's a lot more to be considered than a friggin filter. 1G MASs suck, so you may eventually want to replace that, which means buying a 2g and a new intake pipe. Not to mention 2g UICPs are quite a bit cheaper than 1Gs. Apples and oranges.

Cannot count factory parts as then you can go with 1g head, bov, block, turbo as upgrades for a 2g. 1g upgrades would be 2g MAS ($40) and a exhaust manifold ($100).

Where are you finding 2g upper ic pipes cheaper? I jsut checked out Extreme and buschur. Extreme has them at the same price and Buschur has a 1g at $250 and a 2g at $300.

The Dave Brode uicp is ultra cheap for the 2g.

Anyway, go for the 1G. They're good times.

I find it hilarious how scared you are of crankwalk, it's like you assume it is going to happen! No matter what you do, if you buy a 2G it's going to walk...

Like I said, I had one and it didn't walk, perfectly in spec. Yes I did have a 2500 lb clutch as well! And guess what, I just bought another one, and it didn't walk! The timing belt took out this motor.

And you are reffering to hacking your aircan and using a factory replacement fliter. Sure you can't do that to a 2G, there is no Ghetto air filter option :stick:

My K&N kit cost $80, not sure what you are looking at...

By the time you need to replace a 7 bolt engine, you would be replacing a 6 bolt to go with built internals anyways.

Chris

Exactly. Crankwalk is overrated. All fuckin cars walk. They cost the same to mod, the only difference is what you want to do with it. a 2g will always have the weight disadvantage and that's it. :headache: :rant:

My car is going to CW.

i am thinking of getting a 2.3 stroker kit later on. so would the motor matter after that?

Personally, if i was going to build an engine i would build a 6 bolt. 7 bolts do CW more, its a fact. Parts price wise, they are about equal. With a 1g you will have to do some upgrades, like the MAS, Manifold etc that 2gs came with stock. But same deal with the 2gs. If i was going to put the money required into building up an engine i would hate myself forever if i did it in a 7 bolt and it walked. Most 7 bolts will never walk, but some will. Same with 1gs, but they very rarely walk.

so no matter what crankshaft you have if its a 7bolt it has a greater chance to walk?

Crankshaft its not really a factor. Its the oil squirters in the 7 bolt.

Here is how I understand it. Correct me if I'm stupid:
The oil squirters can get clogged and the crank does not get enough oil. The the oil film around the bearing breaks down and you get fucked.

That is just one of the many theories as to why it happens.

everyone in the know has realized its actually leprechauns..........evil ones.......looking for gold in the thrust bearings

My truck crankwalked.

Now have 4k in my wallet. What should I buy Eclipse RWD Turbo or Eclipse VTEC. Please help.

:lol:


That is some funny shit!

And yes I would not spend money building a 7 bolt 4g63, even with very small chances of Crank walk...Thats why you build a 7 bolt 4g64 ;)

And if you are going 2.3 later on you will need a different crank pistons and rods anyways. With a 2G you would have to buy a 6 bolt block ~ $150 or so.

Chris

Are they all out of the VTEC RWD Eclipses?

Just get a Dodge Aries and be done with it.

Oh shit this thread is giving me a headache. Buy whichever one you want, it is your money. CW is a factor in many 2G's, I have checked a lot of them this year and over half were within .001" from being out of spec. That doesn't mean they won't run or indicate failure even, but they were well on their way to death. I wouldn't let that be the factor in why you buy a certain car though. If you are into these cars for serious performance reasons, you will be updating the motor anyway, 1G or 2G. If your goals are just to have a nice cruiser, it doesn't really matter what you get as long as you check it over before you buy it and maintain it properly. All cars have the potential for walking, not all at the same percentage, but there is no completely safe way to go.

I will take a 1G any day for tons of reasons and I am sure everyone has heard them before so I will save the keystrokes.

The white one John referred to as a QPR car, was just here for a wiring harness and lifters. We checked the end play on the crank just to give the owner a heads up. I wouldn't call it a QPR car though as beyond that and a clutch install before, we havn't had anything to do with it's buildup. His car is at the end of spec as well for CW, but still is running and probably will last at least this summer.

I think you may be on the wrong site ;)

And there really isn't a specific mileage at which time crankwalk occurs, if it ever does. And the "bottom end of the motor" doesn't "blow out" the crank play is a gradual death, evenually it starts tapping the crank angle sensor and causes problems there.

yes, not the biggest fan. But i do like the DSMs in general. I know about all that bullshit about the crank walk. And i do know 4 a fact that you know a hell of alot more about that car and motor than me. my bad

Didn't mean to offend you, I am just one of the guys that finds the fear of crankwalk pretty unreasonable...You already know that if you read the rest of this post ;)

In any case, welcome to the site!

Chris

no, u didnt offend me, but thanks anyways. Im just stating the 2gs do have a potential problem with crank walking. The DSM that i was talking about that blew up racing the M3, some how managed to blow the whole bottom end out of his motor. Which im sure is the worst case sinaro, and doesnt happen that often. thanks for the welcome. Ryan

Buy what you like and what you can afford, not what others like. It is your money, be happy with what you choose. Whatever car you buy, have a shop or DSM person check it out to make sure its all good.

I know exactly which video you are talking about, and it had absolutely nothing to do with crankwalk. The kid was just a fucktard...also it really doesn't matter what kind of car you drive, if you race it a lot something will eventually break.

Crankwalk isn't a huge deal. It affects about 20% of the modified 2g's at some point. Like Chris said, it doesn't matter the mileage. Get a 1g and call it good. It is lighter and has virtutally no posiiblity of crankwalk, and also takes more power stock. Excuse the typing, but I am hammered, right Andy? :P 1G''s Rule!! :3gears:

i know, and i am aware of the stress that is put on the vehicle. I barely ever beat on my car, well except when i deem necessary. Yeah shit can happen, and chances are that it will happen at the worst time possible. The more you dont take care of your vehicle and beat the hell out of it constantly, chances are that something stupid will happen. Take for instance, his shit blew up becuase he was bein a jackass, but thats the chance that u have too take when u modify and race your car.

1Gs are better mechanically fit and finish... 2Gs are pretty IMOP. :bj:

Buy what YOU like. Crankwalk is slightly overated. DSMTuners did a POLL and it was surprising how low the CW numbers really were. Each car has it's advantages/disadvantages. There are parts on the 1g which are better (intake manifold, throttle body, head, rods, etc.) and there are parts on the 2g which are better (pistons, MAF, exhaust manifold, O2 housing, etc.)

You can make over 400hp reliably if tuned correctly, I made 390-400whp on mine and it stayed together (until I took it apart ;) ). That would calculate out to about 460hp at the crank on a stock short block. My 7-bolt didn't crankwalk either (only had 59k when I pulled it, but the crank is still well within spec) and I had a CM 2500lb pressure plate on it.

As far as the oil squirter being a problem if they clogged up, it's actually the other way around. A clogged oil squirter would raise the oil pressure at the main bearing. A squirter that is stuck open would lower the oil pressure at the main bearing. Even so, no one has proven it's the cause. The 4g63 oil system is very good, so I doubt an open squirter could flow enough to kill the oil pressure.

what about the 1g 7bolts, what is the CW rate for those? is it less than the 2g 7bolts?

13.7292%

13.7292% of , whats the total? is that better then the 2gs?

Haha. Thats funny. Stop being so scared of crankwalk and just decide. ;) Its not a bid deal. Buy something that you like no matter what car. Make sure its on good condition and dont buy something that is junk. I doubt crankwalk will be one of your major issues anyway ever if you buy a dsm... There will be a whole lot more other issues youll have to play with if you start modding.

You will never find an accurate statistic portraying the crankwalk rate for 1G 7 bolts or 2G 7 bolts. It is simply not possible to accurately compile a data set about crankwalk because so many people think crankwalk caused their engine to die when it was actually some sort of other problem: mechanical, tuning, ....etc.

yeah i guess your right eclipseturbo. i want performance over looks so i guess im going to look for a 1g.

wait one more question. are the 1g 7bolt internals are better than the 2g 7bolt?