Re: problem
 

90 CAS
New power transistor
1g coil
new ecu
Car still does not get spark. 99% sure on the wiringbeing correct. Did it off of vfaq Any ideas? We will have to check the cas and other things later.

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Have checked the crank sensor to make sure by some freak occurence it didn't get eaten by the crank or disconnected?

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the crank sensor was wired into the 90 cas along with the cam angle sensor.

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We put another working ecu in and checked the cas and saw it got power. The car still doesn't get any spark.

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Anyone know other reasons it wouldn't get spark besides the ecu, cas, power transistor, or coil? We also put 1g wires on it.

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Lets go back to the basics here.
Does spark signal get to the transistor? Does spark signal get to the coil packs?
Its just like any other wiring issue, trace it back to where you lose signal, theres your problem. More often than not, people just automatically begin replacing shit because they heard it might be an issue instead of trying to solve the problem, they try to fix it. Its one of the main reasons dsms are consitered as shit boxes at times and are constered 'unreliable'.
How did you guys rule out the ecu?
Start at the beginning...How is the battery voltage?

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What is the order in which spark travels? The only reason "shit was replaced" is because the car has a 1g head now. The ecu was ruled out by:

Throwing in another Eprom ECU
Throwing in another non-eprom ECU
All three ecus worked at one time.

I haven't had a chance to diagnos the problems yet. All I know it that the cas is getting power and there is no spark. Have not had time to check for signal. Is there a fuse that could have blown? I checked them all but they appear fine. I haven't checked for continuity though. Still no reading on the tack.

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Eric came over and the car now has spark. Apparently the car did not like the coil off my old motor. The car still doesn't start though. The car sounds strange while cranking. Compression numbers dropped alot and are now at 75-75-125-75. Were at ~173 across before. New head, HG, valve seals, etc. Any ideas? Shouldn't the car still start with those numbers??? It sounds strange when cranking...

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75 is definatley down there. If it has a high leakdown % it may not start. With those #'s the head has to come off anyway to see what the problem is.

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What kills me now is that it has a fresh head....

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Leakdown test.

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anyone know how to remove the head without having to redo the timing. I know you need to take the gears off on top but I am not sure what to do to keep the tension. I don't have a leakdown tester and checker doesn't rent them so I am most likely going to neet to pull the head anyhow.

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You can zip tie your timing belt to your cam gears and then support them once they are removed with bungee cords to the hood to get them out of the way.

CRAIG

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thanks

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Yep, 2 zip ties per cam gear and make sure there is spoke of the cam gear in between them. I do mine like this when I change a head gasket. Be careful with the dowel pin on the cam gears. You still need to loosen the tension on the tensioner before you do this.

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thanks, Anyone know who sells leak down testers? Napa doesn't, sears doesn't and checker doesn't. Either that or does anyone know how to make one? We started to make one a while ago but had trouble finding a part or two and stopped.

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You could have just washed the oil off the cylinder walls with gas, from cranking but not starting.

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That is very possible, try redoing the compression test after squirting about 5cc's of oil in the cylinders. If the numbers get better, you found the problem. One thing also I noticed when I came out to do the timing belt, the cam gears were out of phase, If they were that way when the head was bolted down, there is possibility of bent valves depending on the crank position at the time (You should always check this when bolting a head on). I would do the compression test first. That will give you the best information right away.

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The crank was not at TDC and not one of the pistons was at the top of its stroke. I noticed it when putting the head down onto the ARPs. So there is not really anyway I see of the valves being bent when installing the head.

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Update: Just did a leakdown test on cylinders 1 and 4. When the car was at TDC, there was a lot of air coming out the mufler and a very little coming out the intake side (bov line). The intake side was only noticable when put up to my ear or lips. Not really noticable by hand. The exhaust was another story. I could feel it with my hands over the 5" tip. I also put a bag over the muffler to see if the bag felt the pressure and it bulged quite a bit :( . Looks like I will be without a car for another few days.....