And thats where it will sit for the next 6 months as you try to get him to answer your emails and phone calls. ;) :goodluck:

And thats where it will sit for the next 6 months as you try to get him to answer your emails and phone calls. ;) :goodluck: [/b][/quote]
Actually it's going back together as we speak.

Doesn't really matter though. Magnus has been waiting for the connecting rods for my engine since April and doesn't have them yet.

Viscious - what's your overall rating of your Magnus Experience?

I don't want to get off topic here, I'll PM you.

Well said, that's why my tranny is at TRE right now. I don't want to take any chances and am having it done now before it breaks and trashes the trans. :3gears: [/b][/quote]
alright maybe i'm dumb, but in TRE's 1G transmissions are the gears or hub/sleeve any different than stock, other than being shotpeened? Actually from their site, it doesn't look like the gears are even shotpeened. They use stronger shift rails, "improved oil passages" (eh isnt the whole thing full of oil?), nice trash magnet and filter, and evo shift forks. I'm not really seeing anything else but nicer synchros and taller 1st/5th gear, which aren't improving strength any.. Am I missing something here?

Actually it's going back together as we speak.

Doesn't really matter though. Magnus has been waiting for the connecting rods for my engine since April and doesn't have them yet. [/b][/quote]
are you going titanium or something?

Even with stock parts, the way that it is assembled and small changes make a huge difference. Guys like John Sheperd have spent years and years playing around shimming, clearences, making small changes to parts, etc and have learned how to make a tranny last longer and shift better. Anybody can take apart and put back together a tranny, but to actually know what works and what doesn't takes some trial and error on actual high HP cars. There are some parts that can be swapped from one model year to another like the double syncro shit and EVO shift forks and getting rid of the terribly weak 3-4 gear in the 94+ trannies.

fair enough. lotsa plastigauge

Not to mention putting in a 4 gear center diff or spool if you are over 500 whp.

Lots of plastigage doesn't do anything if you don't know what to set the clearances to! They have quite a few tricks they do too.

<!--QuoteBegin-illz@Jun 10 2004, 10:56 AM
alright maybe i'm dumb, but in TRE's 1G transmissions are the gears or hub/sleeve any different than stock, other than being shotpeened? Actually from their site, it doesn't look like the gears are even shotpeened. They use stronger shift rails, "improved oil passages" (eh isnt the whole thing full of oil?), nice trash magnet and filter, and evo shift forks. I'm not really seeing anything else but nicer synchros and taller 1st/5th gear, which aren't improving strength any.. Am I missing something here?[/quote]
Let's try and keep this post on topic.

To answer your questions, I had TRE Cryo treat all the parts, I had the 4-spyder mod performed to the center diff with the Torington bearing mod, double synchro on 2nd gear, heavy duty 3/4 gearset hub and their "blueprinting" and assembly. This will cover about 95% of anybodies requirements with a high HP DSM. I did not go with the higher 1st gear set.

Look HERE for more info

Now back on topic :3gears:

I had Shep do the same stuff to my tranny that Vicious got, except the cryo part. I'm running a 3100 ACT pressure plate with a street disk. We'll see how it holds up.

If anybody's interested, I have a used 2600 and 3200 pp for sale. PM me offline for details.

Also I have heard the problem with the monster pp is cracking the crank shaft. So unless you want to tear down your motor and check the crankshaft for cracks every year, you might want to get a 2600 and a sprung pucked disk. My clutch only slipped a little, still hit 165 in 5th at 7k. I just smelled a little cluch on the way back down the frontage road, and it was only a little.

~John