Re: Re-torquing ARP headstuds
 

ok, did we discuss copper/no copper last time I did this? What's the advantage of going no copper? And can you remind me what we discussed for torque? This is a 7-bolt, I think I did 87 or 88 lb-ft last time.

Shane, I think you hit the nail on the head, but I'd like to take 30 mins and try this re-torquing first, just for giggles.

Re: Re-torquing ARP headstuds
 

Read from like the 3rd page on of the link I posted. Also when you do the copper spray you need to do it VERY evenly and you can easily over spray in some area's making the surface uneven.

Re: Re-torquing ARP headstuds
 

What's the point then? I'm thinking no to copper spray if/when I pull the head this time.

Re: Re-torquing ARP headstuds
 

I'm just gonna throw this out there....no spray + new OEM studs :D

Re: Re-torquing ARP headstuds
 

Might as well try something different.. Nothing wrong with experimenting!

Re: Re-torquing ARP headstuds
 

I've also reused old headstuds before on one car and it hasn't had any problems, lol. I'd just not use the copper spray. I've never used that stuff, and I've built a LOT of low powered g54b's in my day. That's rep you can't buy.

Re: Re-torquing ARP headstuds
 

Not sure about EVO's, but for DSM's ARP makes L19 studs, that's what I bought. The stud itself is made of the same material as the A1's. But the nuts/washers are the same ones used on the standard ARP's, as they claim that the stud is the weak point, not the nuts.

I do believe on the A1's, the nuts and washers are made from the L19 material though. That's the main difference between them as far as I know.

I'm going to rock the ARP L19's once I get around to taking the head off.

Re: Re-torquing ARP headstuds
 

Haven't gotten that far yet, but on page 2, there's some interesting info.

It says that if arps are used and torqued just beyond the recommended torque (which I think is fairly common practice) and THEN the head lifts for any reason, the ARP studs are not to be used again, as they can become stretched and integrity compromised.

Has anyone locally experienced this? If this is in fact true, it could certainly be why my HG is going out again after only 10k miles. The head lifted last fall and when I replaced the headgasket I re-used the same set of ARPs.

Are the L19's really $250? Someone pinch me....can my mere 400whp 4G63 really need these?

Re: Re-torquing ARP headstuds
 

Looks like the A1 brand ones are, yeah. But don't just look at the A1's, look for ARP L19's. Pretty sure in the DSM world they are slightly cheaper than the A1's.

Do you need them, probably not, but IMO why not, you'll never need anything else again, ever. Using that same mindset, did you really need a 4" FMIC? :) j/k. It's just you'll never have to worry about head studs ever again, no matter how big you go 5 years from now.

I did a quick search and didn't see the ARP's on any of the site vendors websites, but did see them on a competitors website for $219, which saves you $30. And I'm sure one or more of our site vendors would be willing to match that price.

And if it makes you feel any better, yours are cheaper then the ones for 1G's :(

Re: Re-torquing ARP headstuds
 

By "just beyond" are you talking ~5ft-lbs? If so, I doubt 5 ft lbs over would cause any issue. Depending on how close to the yield strength the TQ spec is, it could matter.

Here is ARP's genral info page :
http://www.arp-bolts.com/Catalog/Cat...talog_0024.pdf

Mine are TQ'd quite a bit higher than the spec. I would not reuse them at this point, as I should be ridiculously close to the yield point. (Hence why I picked the number I did)

And just be glad L19's are that CHEAP. ARP's for a 6G72 are $300. There are 16 VS 10, and they are a little longer, but 3X the price WTF!!!

Re: Re-torquing ARP headstuds
 

Page 3 and on is alot more in depth info and more people running high hp giving their experience. If you lifted the head and torqued the head studs down to the same torque as the first time. Then I would have to say that is FOR SURE why you're head lifted again so soon. If you lifted your head, you stretched the headstuds. Then if you torqued them down the same as before. It's not gonna hold the head down as good second time around.

Re: Re-torquing ARP headstuds
 

Yea, $22 apiece for the basically the best studs out there isn't too bad IMO. I pay $3-$4 for tiny little studs for things like exhaust manifold to head at the hardware store, now that's a ripoff.

And I agree, if you lifted the head I'd torque them another 10lbs, then probably just get the better ones after that.

Re: Re-torquing ARP headstuds
 

Well FFS this all makes sense now. I wish I had knew this info before. So the question now is, do I just get another set of regular ARPs at $90 or more than double that for a set of the L19's? Theoretically a brand new set of new standard ARPs should do me fine...Gah, decisions.

So that brings me back to my original question I guess. I'm gonna pop the valve cover off and re-torque. I think I did 88 before, perhaps I should do 93 or 95?

Brandon, I'm thinking of stripping the paint off of my valvecover and shaving it. When would be a good time for you to do a little powder coating for me? :D

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y23...pril708072.jpg

Re: Re-torquing ARP headstuds
 

I'd go with 95ft/lbs. That's what I did mine at for the 2nd time.

Re: Re-torquing ARP headstuds
 

A 7-bolt?

Re: Re-torquing ARP headstuds
 

If you go too high with the Moly Lube, you could surpass the yield strength of them, enhancing the issue in the future.

I personally would just get the ARP L19's, and be done with it (that is what I ended up doing. L19's are in my parts cabinet waiting for the next time the head comes off).

As for the powder coating, I am always nervous about doing Valve Covers. They can be so picky due to the tiny little corners you have to get into, and the possible outgassing that could occur. We could definately do it, just have to bring it in already stripped and clean and ready to go. Expect to be here awhile though because I take a lot of time on Valve Covers because they are so picky. And there's a real good chance there will be some small blemishes. I'm not a pro, but it should still turn out pretty deng nice. If you wanted to, we'd have to setup a day, as my weekend schedule is always busy as crap. And I need to pick up some more powder I think.

Re: Re-torquing ARP headstuds
 

No 6-bolt. But like Brandon is saying. I'd go with the L19's and just be done and never have to upgrade ever again.

Re: Re-torquing ARP headstuds
 

Brandon,

I'll prolly wait till I pull the head to do the HG (assuming it comes to that) then, this is 4 coats of black and 3 coats of clear.

Looking back, I'm pretty sure I did 87 lbs on them.

Re: Re-torquing ARP headstuds
 

Just get the A1 L19 studs and follow the directions that come with them. They are cheap for the Evo/7-bolt compared to 400-500 for a 6-bolt or 600-800 for a Supra.

Re: Re-torquing ARP headstuds
 

IMO, I'd really assess your goals with this car. Will you really be taking advantage of the L19's or would you be alright with regular arps?