Originally Posted by totaleclipse_05 (Post 267315)

I disagree.

When you go to ignite the HID bulb, the current can double or even triple the amount needed compared to when it's completely on. This load can, over time, melt the wiring jacket around the stock wiring. This happens so fast that it will not blow the fuse. That is why you should install larger gauge wiring hooked up the battery and use a relay to tap into the existing wiring for the headlights.

Originally Posted by mx3twinturbo (Post 267351)

I tried talking to him about it, around then,
but he really didn't have a great explanation of what happend.
though if I had done a shoddy wiring job and burned down my BMW, I don't think I would have admitted it either.
-Jesse

Originally Posted by mx3twinturbo (Post 267335)

I will post up a spec sheet on our product,
1 cold starting electricity 6.5-7.0A
2 stable electricity 3.5A/12V
3 hot starting electricity 3.6A/12V
4 stable power 35W
5 open circuit protection automatic protection in 1s
6 short circuit protection automatic protection in10s
7 over voltage protection automatic stop working reaching18v
8 low voltage protection automatic stop working reaching 8v
9 lighting test no ignition in 23kv anywhere
10 flashing test turn on and off in every second ,every time the bulbs can
11 aging test work continuously 24 hours normally
12 ignition test normal
13 high temperature test work normally reaching 105 centigrade
14 low temperature test work normally reaching minus 40 centigrade
15 waterproof dustproof test immerged in water for 12 hours,
16 anti-vibration test good
17 salt fog test good
18 anti-electromagnetism test meet regulation requirement
19 ignition voltage 23kv 20KV-23KV
20 time to stable in cold starting process 4s
21 isolation function ≥300megohm the power is isolated to outer shell≥300 megohm

if you need an explanation please ask.
Thanks,
Jesse

Originally Posted by Jakey (Post 267354)

I have had a number of HIDs hooked up to an oscilloscope and have yet to ever see one with a startup current draw as low as mentioned in your post.

Originally Posted by mx3twinturbo (Post 267355)

I will test this tomorrow. ;-)

Originally Posted by Jakey (Post 267363)

With? What will the sampling frequency be?

Originally Posted by green hornet (Post 267415)

holy! ppl he's just trying to get every one a good deal on them, if you are worried then pass on the sale! it's a simple as that

Originally Posted by green hornet (Post 267415)

holy! ppl he's just trying to get every one a good deal on them, if you are worried then pass on the sale! it's a simple as that

Originally Posted by Jakey (Post 267455)

When I am talking about sampling frequency, I am referring to how often is the measurement device taking a measurement. I have found a couple different multi-meters at work that do not sample fast enough to catch the initial current surge that HID ballasts have. That is why I ended up using a current transducer with an oscilloscope.

Originally Posted by mx3twinturbo (Post 267221)

Results...
incandescent bulb(9006)
*surface temp #1 -857 degrees
*surface temp #2 -913 degrees
*surface temp #3- 970 degrees
HID Bulb(H7)
*surface temp #1 -658 degrees
*surface temp #2 -738 degrees
*surface temp #3 -823 degrees

Conclusion:
HID's run cooler than Incandescent's

Originally Posted by FattyBoomBatty (Post 268301)

I need to question this method of measurement. Did you use an optical temp sensor, like infrared stuff? If so, this can't possible represent the actual temperature of the surface, you could just as well be measuring the temp of the filament in the incandescants, and the gas or whatever it is in the HID's. You need a non-optical reading for surface temps of glass.

My guess is that it will be very different (lower for both). If my headlights are reaching 900 degrees, my car would have caught fire a long time ago.

And it was already addressed, but I would think poor wiring would be the culprit, not the bulbs or ballasts themselves.

Originally Posted by FattyBoomBatty (Post 268301)

I need to question this method of measurement. Did you use an optical temp sensor, like infrared stuff? If so, this can't possible represent the actual temperature of the surface, you could just as well be measuring the temp of the filament in the incandescants, and the gas or whatever it is in the HID's. You need a non-optical reading for surface temps of glass.

My guess is that it will be very different (lower for both). If my headlights are reaching 900 degrees, my car would have caught fire a long time ago.

And it was already addressed, but I would think poor wiring would be the culprit, not the bulbs or ballasts themselves.

Originally Posted by mx3twinturbo (Post 267520)

My DVOM is has a High sampling rate, with a Min max function, so If the readings are below 10A I will catch it, or blow my fuse, we will see Ill get it done soon.