Naw, too expensive. Just poke random holes in the vacuum line going to the wastegate until it makes the boost you want.

Wow! I never thought of that.

I have a friend who made his own too. And it worked fine. But I for one wouldnt trust or put that shit on my car. I've had too many big problems that were caused over stupid shit. Just be safe about it. Sure you may save some money by going cheap...but when shit goes wrong, you'll be really sorry and you'll be kickin yourself in the ass for not doing shit the way it should've been done.

Wow! I never thought of that. [/b][/quote]
Thats how you get around class rules that don't allow boost controllers. :)

wow.
thanks for showing me that you dont know shit.

fishtank bleeders...puhlezzze, that was like 5 years ago...


Adam

My Joe G boost controller is better, ask Dane, Colin, Chris. etc... and no, i said Joe G, not Joe P. i make it.

BTW are you actually reading boost now? LOL
I found a noticable increase in performance by getting an Elite MBC (Great MBC, thanks guys) and a aftermarket Turkey call (BOV). I have the K&N filter but the intake pipe is stock and the exhaust and UICP is stock also. Its just a matter of wether you want huge performance or just something to give ya a little more balls. either way if you havent gotten this from the thread already dont make your own unless you know what your doing. $30 at elite is about the best price your gonna find, and they are very nice and accurate. either that or get a Apexi AFC then you have a nice little blue display. LOL

Don't you mean AVC-R? :stick: :bounce:

yeah, shouldnt you be on ebay. :bj: :stick:

An AVC-R is not much more than a blue screen. I could not get the damn thing set on my car. My hallman was very reliable.

wow.
thanks for showing me that you dont know shit.

fishtank bleeders...puhlezzze, that was like 5 years ago...


Adam [/b][/quote]
Oh for Christ's sake does nobody understand sarcasm anymore? :fworld:

booooozt

Exactly!

BTW are you actually reading boost now? LOL
I found a noticable increase in performance by getting an Elite MBC (Great MBC, thanks guys) and a aftermarket Turkey call (BOV). I have the K&N filter but the intake pipe is stock and the exhaust and UICP is stock also. Its just a matter of wether you want huge performance or just something to give ya a little more balls. either way if you havent gotten this from the thread already dont make your own unless you know what your doing. $30 at elite is about the best price your gonna find, and they are very nice and accurate. either that or get a Apexi AFC then you have a nice little blue display. LOL [/quote]
Well if it is acurate, then my damn MBC wont tune my boost. I'll run 13/15 all day. No matter if that thing is all the way in or out. Does anyone know, on a 2g, if the line you tap for a boost gauge has blue lines on it or not?

Any of the vaccum lines coming off of the intake manifold will work best.

Tap the bov line (obviously not the recirculation tube though).

For 1G's, I prefer to use the turbo-outlet elbow (when still using a TDO5H turbo).

I did it there but I was told it makes the turbo seem more laggy. I had no problems though.

Back when I had my MBC tapped into that outlet-elbow I got zero boost-spike, when moved to the BOV line during the FMIC install I started getting about 2 psi spike. I have also switched a lot of people's cars over from the BOV line to the elbow and never got a complain about it making the turbo more laggy, but everyone did say it eliminated the spike (or at least seriously reduced it).

Boost leak? Or just the weak T25. Does it at least spike past 15 to start? The T25 will only hold like 13-15psi in the high RPMs.

If your gauge reads vacuum on intial startup then your probably on the right line. Even if your on the wrong line, if your getting a boost reading then it should be accurate if there is no leaks.

Tapping of the BOV or comp housing or comp elbow should have no effect on spoolup time. Think about how it works...

Tapping of the BOV line should give somewhat more consistant boost levels from one day to the next because it takes into effect how well or not so good the intercooler is doing it's job. Getting it pre-intercooler pretty much makes the turbo always run the same boost, but you could end up with varying boost levels at the intake manifold/motor depending on how heatsoaked the intercooler is because the better an intercooler is doing at it's job of cooling the more pressure drop you will get post-intercooler.

If you are trying to run as little boost as possible, then tap it pre-intercooler. Then the wastegate will get to see the most amount of boost pressure the quickest and be able to open sooner.