Re: Low Mileage stock bore Rod/Piston swap
 

I don't think anyone was asking if this is the best way to do it, just can it be done and will it last. Yes and if you're careful, yes.

Re: Low Mileage stock bore Rod/Piston swap
 

Yes it can work, I would get the rods/pistons balanced but thats just me, off to the parking lot to swap in rods and pistons quick befor work.

~John

Re: Low Mileage stock bore Rod/Piston swap
 

So update, I guess you just cover the oil squirters with vacuum caps.

Re: Low Mileage stock bore Rod/Piston swap
 

just cover them up.
It does work just fine I have done it my talon and it has been going for over 20k when I put in the 95 pistions on the 1g rods.

Re: Low Mileage stock bore Rod/Piston swap
 

Mark, did you use a ball hone when you did this? If so, do you remember what type/size etc?

Re: Low Mileage stock bore Rod/Piston swap
 

I used a 3 stone hone I like them better than the ball ones

Re: Low Mileage stock bore Rod/Piston swap
 

I would just take the oil squirters off, its only 4 bolts and then you have no chance of bending them.

~John

Re: Low Mileage stock bore Rod/Piston swap
 

Eh, I'm sure it works well enough, and I'm sure if proper break in for the rings was done, I'm sure it'd be fine. Maybe not something you'd make 450hp with reliably. You just have to NOT be a dumbass.

Re: Low Mileage stock bore Rod/Piston swap
 

Any tips on what type of break in should be done after doing something like this? I'd think a startup and few miles of breakin, then oil change, then few hundred miles, then another oil change would do the trick, no?

Re: Low Mileage stock bore Rod/Piston swap
 

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

A bike engine builder but same applies for car engines

Re: Low Mileage stock bore Rod/Piston swap
 

Oh God, not that crap again.

Re: Low Mileage stock bore Rod/Piston swap
 

Haha, break it in like you stole it!

Re: Low Mileage stock bore Rod/Piston swap
 

We have done this on one occasion at least as the customer was on an extreme budget. As stated previously this is not the best way to build a motor, but it does work. Assure that you cover the crank during the honing process, remove the oil squirters, watch for oil on the backside of the rod bearings, and clean the hell out of it afterwards and your results should be positive. Possible issues are increased oil consumption, cylinder taper, cylinder out of round, and compression issues based on finish quality of the cylinder wall and ring seating.