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Re: Engine Building-What Products?
That main girdle thing is interesting.
Right now I have a 20G turbo. Its just a FWD so I dont want to go too big. BUT I want the engine to handle "anything" I throw at it. |
Re: Engine Building-What Products?
The main girdle piece looks nice, but I think they might want to torque the main studs to spec then see if they still have this problem.
" Torquing the main bolts to as much as 55ft-lbs didn’t help this at all." The spec for ARP mains (10mm 190,000psi stud) is 60 lb/ft which is only 75% or the yield strength, they could try going a little more than 60 lb/ft to see if that helps. Also if they installed arps they should have line honed the block. If I have to make a piece like that I would integrate a windige tray into it. ~John |
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Chris |
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Re: Engine Building-What Products?
The pics on the web page and the motor they talk about was using arp mains, so I thought that was the torque spec they used for the arps. Making a plate like that would not be hard, but $150 is a good price.
~John |
Re: Engine Building-What Products?
just use stock cam gears. you can re-mark them yourself and spend the 40 bucks somewhere else!
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Re: Engine Building-What Products?
Yeah, there is no need to buy 2.4 cam gears.
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I have done plenty of research into valve seat angles compared to cfm gains in different ranges, you do realize that the cams we are working with are usually less than .450" lift? I also have done PLENTY of research into wear characteristics and longevity of a 3-angle valve job vs. a 5-angle on a STREET CAR. Different part selection, changing valve heights, adjusting port configuration are all more things "worth it" on a spare no expense situation. Finally, if you read the customers post, instead of a my posts, you would realize that he has already paid for a 3 angle valve job on his current head and was inquiring if it should be sufficient. I was simply stating the added costs of going to a 5-angle valve job won't notice him huge gains. Hince the recommendation of going with a 3-angle valve job. So I will state again. The costs involved compared to the potential performance gains will lead me to state that Mike will be better off keeping his current head and putting the money elsewhere. |
Re: Engine Building-What Products?
The cam gears are off by 1/2 a tooth. How do plan to re-mark them? Either way you are 1/2 tooth advanced or 1/2 tooth retarded. Buy 2.4L gears or adjustable 2.0L gears and degree them in like I did.
From reading this thread, you might want to let somebody build it for you. |
Re: Engine Building-What Products?
You could remark your 2.0 gears, they'd be exactly half a tooth clockwise from the original marks. Like Vicious, I bought the 2.4 gears, timing is just not something I'd do half-assed.
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Re: Engine Building-What Products?
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Just mark them like this. Yes i know they arent the stock gears but who cares? The marks line up the same way.
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Re: Engine Building-What Products?
Is there a huge cylinder head flow difference between 3 angle vs. 5 angle valve seats....? Not so much.
I've spent countless hours on SuperFlows, from the old tube style pressure readers, to the new "touch one button" setups playing with all kinds of cylinder head setups. I've only seen some minor gains here and there, typically in the low lift numbers with different seat angles, including radius'd exaust valve heads flowing them at 25 and 28 inches of water. I know some guys that would pay big bucks if you could get them an additional 7cfm's out of their heads. :D I reread that and it sounded like I don't condone 5 angle seats. If you have the cutters, by all means multi-angle cut the seats, backcut your intake valves and radius your exaust valve, but don't expect huge gains. Put your trust into someone who will make sure you have a good set of guides and knows how your seat width will work with your particular combination. And lastly, lap the damn things in. They only have to touch them for a second to see where the valve hits the seat and it saves the hassle of getting an uneven seat or valve face because the cutter chattered the seat. Even with a Sunnen automated cutter you can still get crappy seats. The machine work is only as good as the guy sending it out the door. |
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If I remember correctly the difference is about 4.5 deg of cam timing in either direction. Ask anybody who's done building and/or tuning and they will tell you 4.5 deg is alot. Do it right. You'll spend many times the cost of the gears trying to get back that power difference. |
Re: Engine Building-What Products?
shane, mo and cher all made some pretty respectable power with remarked STOCK CAM GEARS friend ;)
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Re: Engine Building-What Products?
This thread is great.
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Re: Engine Building-What Products?
I remarked my timing gears, I bought a 2.4 timing gear from mitsu to overlay on the stock 2.0 gears like forever ago. I have no idea where my 2.4 gear ended up, I know its floated around the community for remarking stockers. No problems here, pretty simple modification.
Jim |
Re: Engine Building-What Products?
I have OEM 2.4 gears you can buy/rent. PM me if interested.
$10 per gear (I paid $17.14 and $18.20 excluding tax and shipping) I ended up marking a set of AEM adjustables. Headwerks did my machine work to the bottom end and so far it's taken 10,000 plus miles of my amateur assembly and tuning abuse. lol They too recommend OEM main bearings unless I wanted to align hone the mains. I'm using all OEM bearings, Eagle rods, and Ross pistons. |
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Jim |
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