Re: Project Lex
 

I think my evo has more rust than your car! I had no idea it had 160k miles on it, very nice shape for that many miles man.

Lookin forward to more progress!

Re: Project Lex
 

Lol, lift is pretty low on the list. I'm even starting to wonder if it's even worth it to get one, or maybe just go in with someone on a small shop instead.

Yeah its actually a 1992, 165k or something on the clock. I bought it from a guy in IL, no idea where it was before that. But yeah I would prefer zero rust, but not too shabby considering the mileage, definitely something I feel like I can fix too.

Re: Project Lex
 

Yeah, after rolling around all night under my Tiguan, I realize I really need a lift again. Looking good B-man!

Re: Project Lex
 

I undercoated my old 1g, its easy. Just clean the underside really well with soap and water first, then use some mineral spirits, brush it really well to get all the grime off. Tape off all the areas you dont want undercoat on, and go to town with several layers.

Re: Project Lex
 

Did you use roll on stuff? I've read of a few people using truck bedliner stuff that looks nice too.

Re: Project Lex
 

Nah I used spray on rubberized undercoating, you can get it at most auto parts stores.

Re: Project Lex
 

Put your car on a rotisserie first. Ask fejerery. I'm sure he can help you. :D

Re: Project Lex
 

I'd love to do that actually, I think I'm too scared to do that tho, lol.

Re: Project Lex
 

[1 Minute Ago 09:37 AM] Super Bleeder!!: tyler from MG with the turbo cobra did that like 5 years ago and it looked AMAZING
[1 Minute Ago 09:37 AM] Super Bleeder!!: somone tell brandon to use POR15 on his lexus underbody

Re: Project Lex
 

Interesting. That car i posted above, he actually did POR15 before he put that undercoating on. Here's what it looked like with just the POR15. I have no idea about what these coatings are, so I kinda figured it must have just been kind of a primer or rust inhibitor or something.

http://i747.photobucket.com/albums/x...g?t=1310084787

Only thing I don't like is how shiny it is. I think more of a matte finish would be my perfect world. But i'm open to anything at this point really.

I'll try to wash it and get it as clean as I can, but I'm not going to sand it down to bare metal. So if there is a product that will adhere better than others with a surface that's just been washed (not sanded), that'd probably be higher up on my list.

Re: Project Lex
 

POR15 is basically just a bad ass paint. It is used a lot on trailers, boat docks and things like that. It works great for underbody also, it is very resistent to chemicals and is thicker than normal paint. Next year I am going to sand blast my trailer and spray with POR15. Welle's right on 65 has it. If you ever have any paint questions they are awesome, they can custom make spray cans too with PPG paint in it.

Re: Project Lex
 

Yea since you dont drive in winter anyway, just clean it up underneath and just use some good 3m undercoating... its a flat finish.

Re: Project Lex
 

I think that you can get POR15 in flat finish too.
I'm hoping to get my civic done soon and one day do the DSM.

Re: Project Lex
 

So considering I'm not going to strip this to bare metal, Just wash the crap out of it, sand any areas with rust, but that's about as much prep work as I'd like to do, is there a product that I should lean towards that will better adhere and last without a hardcore prep job?

Kinda like how Plasti-Dip, it'll still adhere even with less than ideal prep work. However I'm not using that, just an analogy...

Re: Project Lex
 

POR15 only has a physical bond, so you would need to use something rough for prep work. Paint removal tool or wire brush on a grinder or something. It does leave an extremely hard shell that nothing likes to stick to.

Re: Project Lex
 

Por15 is made to stick to and to eliminate rust, you can paint it directly on rust no problem. I would say wire brush it at the most.

Re: Project Lex
 

Picked up a used lightweight JWT 350z flywheel for cheap. I like the fact that the replacement surfaces for these are only $65.

http://mitsustyle.com/forums/attachm...1&d=1352582870

Re: Project Lex
 

So, excuse my newbness but I have a few questions...how does it happen that this particular 350Z trans bolts up to this motor? I get that you have an adapter plate but what about the input shaft spline count and length? What about the mounts that bolt it up to the chassis? And how does this new flywheel you got simply bolt up, all the holes align correctly? And the driveshaft just fits or do you have to modify the one you have?

Also I was wondering if you plan on finishing the rear-end/trans/clutch job before you tear apart the engine bay for the new IM/IC piping setup? Just curious...I know your list is pretty long but wanted to remind you how fun actually driving project cars is vs them just sitting unfinished forever and ever. :D

Re: Project Lex
 

If you need a custom driveshaft, I can build them at Proven Force.

Re: Project Lex
 

I will run a stock SC300 auto flexplate. An adapter will make it so that I can bolt a 350z flywheel and clutch setup to it. The 350z clutch will have the correct splines for the 350z trans input shaft. The trans mount will have to be custom, but it's 1 mount, nothing too fancy there. A custom driveshaft will need to be made to fit into the 350z trans. A Titan driveshaft fits into this trans, so I'm thinking of just seeing if I can find a used Titan driveshaft for cheap, bring it along with my current one to a driveshaft shop, and let them make it work.

I haven't fully decided on the motor stuff yet. Ideally I want the motor out for when I mount up the trans, starter, all that jazz for the first time. So likely the motor will be coming out. However that kind of goes against my rule of thumb which is to try and do things as 1 at a time as possible. So we will see.

I understand where you're coming from as far as enjoying driving it. I drove the thing all year without hardly touching it at all. I have been enjoying driving it, all year! However maybe we differ here, but the "project" part of it is also very enjoyable for me. I am a hands on person, so actually working on it, taking things apart, learning more about this platform which really I'm still very much a newb to, doing things I've never done before, that is also very enjoyable for me. I want to enjoy the whole process beginning to end as much as I can, not just the end. And I want the end to be something I'm proud of. Which takes time, care, and effort.

Re: Project Lex
 

Thanks, will consider hitting you up when I get to that point. Still a ways away though :)

Re: Project Lex
 

Hah! Your rule of thumb and my advice are one in the same :) I'm all about the process as well, it's enlightening, therapeutic, and something to be proud of!

Re: Project Lex
 

Flexplate adapter and hardware.

Re: Project Lex
 

Some other misc info I'll post up since I've been asked.

WEIGHTS
Stock 2jz Flywheel = 34lbs (source = internet, however I will measure mine once I get it off)
Stock 350Z flywheel = 37lbs (source = internet)

My Setup
Stock 2jz Flexplate = 5lbs (source = none, this is a complete guess, cannot find this, will measure once I have one in hand)
JWT 350z Flywheel = 14lbs (measured by me)
Custom Flexplate to Flywheel adapter = 3lbs (measured by me)

Total = 22lbs (12lbs less than OEM 34lb flywheel).

Again, I will measure some of these myself once I get the parts in hand.


Gearing

Supra 6spd
V160 - (V161)
1st - 3.827 / (3.724)
2nd - 2.360 / (2.246)
3rd - 1.685 / (1.541)
4th - 1.312 / (1.205)
5th - 1.000 / (1.000)
6th - 0.793 / (0.818)
rev 3.280 / (3.192)

350Z 6spd
1st - 3.794
2nd - 2.324
3rd - 1.624
4th - 1.271
5th - 1.000
6th - .794

So you can see the 350z gearing is pretty much right in the middle of the 2 Supra 6spd's.

Re: Project Lex
 

Rear Subframe is disassembled. Took about 2hrs longer than it needed to because one bolt was seized in one of the arms. Had to resort to the grinder.

I want to replace most of these fasteners. Not sure what other people do, but I'm guessing I'll have to just go to the dealer to get most of these? Where else would someone go for decent SS metric hardware, maybe Fastenal?

Subframe disassembled:
http://mitsustyle.com/forums/attachm...1&d=1353031788

Rear Driver Side wheel hub mess:
http://mitsustyle.com/forums/attachm...1&d=1353031788

Rear Pass Side wheel hub mess:
http://mitsustyle.com/forums/attachm...1&d=1353031788

Old Diff in front (4.08), New Diff in rear (3.26):
http://mitsustyle.com/forums/attachm...1&d=1353031788

Re: Project Lex
 

Fastenal or a place like them would be cheapest and have a wide variety of anything you might want, say nylon locking nuts or specialty washers.

Re: Project Lex
 

Yeah, it gets pretty limited on the big metric stuff. Fastenal has a decent website and good selection. Frattalone's Ace hardware has a decent selection of the smaller stuff (especially the one west of Northtown).

Re: Project Lex
 

I wouldnt use straight stainless on suspension bolts. I would say get OEM bolts.

Re: Project Lex
 

The only thing I don't like about ACE, is when I get a metric bolt to replace one on my car that was a 12mm socket, usually their off the shelf ones I need to use a 13mm on. Kind of annoying, and why I was hoping maybe there is a better place with more choice.

Joe, can you explain why SS would be bad? I'm sure there's a good reason, and I just don't know. The only thing I can thing of would be any sort of dis-similar metal corrosion or something maybe?

Re: Project Lex
 

Just watch the grade on the bolts, stainless is usually grade 2. Stainless has a low carbon content so it cannot be hardened. Some of the suspension stuff may be grade 8.

Re: Project Lex
 

Thanks for the tip!

Re: Project Lex
 

Small update.

Ordered a JWT 350z clutch w/ metallic disc from Vinny Ten Racing. Showed up with an organic disc though, so they will be shipping me a new disc in a couple weeks.

The rear subframe is completely disassembled with the exception of the pressed in bushings. I cleaned it up with soap and water out back.

Ordered all new TRD bushings for the rear subframe with the goal of stiffening it up a bit for performance reasons, yet still retaining some comfort (which is why I chose these TRD ones over poly/solid bushings). TRD are the same exact design as stock, just use a stiffer rubber. Had a hell of a time trying to find a shop that will press out the old and press in the new bushings. Nick (munchgsx) offered to try so hopefully we'll give that a try soon.

Once the old ones are out, prior to putting in the new ones I'll be sending the subframe to PowderKeg to blast and powdercoat so it's in better than new condition.

On the control arms, the ball joints are not servicable, so you have to spend stupid amounts of money to buy all new arms from the dealer. So instead, I asked John (Pushit) to see if he can figure out a way to get the old balljoints out, and modify the arms to accept some standard off-the-shelf ones. Will hopefully be able to get him an arm to try out here soon.

Also, started on the small amount of rust spots under the car. Basically just bought a sanding pad and sanded down the areas with rust. Then hit them with some Rustoleum rust inhibitor primer, and will follow it up with some Rustoleum black enamel. Hopefully that'll help reduce any rusting under there. But again was pretty happy with how little there was.

Also I sanded and primed the new rear diff. Giving it the same treatment with the rust inhibitor primer, then will give it a final coat of black enamel.

And same treatment to the axles, and the front face of the wheel hubs.

So the disassembly stage is coming to an end with the rear diff. Will be moving onto the reassembly portion soon which is exciting for me!

Re: Project Lex
 

careful with those control arms B. If i remember correctly they're aluminum. And since they're a structural item they'll be heat treated, so don't try and torch those ball joints out or you'll seriously compromise the strength of the arm.

Re: Project Lex
 

Yes they are aluminum. Thanks for the heads up. I'll pass that onto John when I give them to him, see what he says. I don't know much about metal properties or whatever, just hopefully he will know what he's doing.

Just sucks that the only other real option out there is to spend $400/ea on new arms, just because of the ball joint.

Re: Project Lex
 

400 per arm?!!? Jesus

Re: Project Lex
 

Yup. 2 in the front, 2 in the back, and I'm at about half the $$$ I paid for the entire car.

Re: Project Lex
 

How much is powdercoating that whole subframe gonna be?

Re: Project Lex
 

Don't know yet, but whatever it'll cost what it costs.

Re: Project Lex
 

Re: Project Lex
 

Hahaha I wouldnt powder coat that, no one sees it. Just clean it with degreaser, paint it with that rust inhibitor primer and then black. But if you really want to powder it, ballin university for sure!