Starting problem

[Halon]

The spark plugs have a ver slight whitish look to them. They aren't wet or anything. They have about 3k miles on them. The MAS is plugged in. How can I tell if it's good or not? When the car starts, it reads Hz just fine, and it runs just fine. Is there a way I can tell if it is good or bad?

[Halon]

Well I finally just got this thing started after trying over and over. Here's a few extra things I wanted to bring up.

I wanted to bring up an idea someone else told me. Possibly the coolant temp sensor. Now again if this was the probelm, how can I check this? With my logger somehow? It didn't have some crazy negative numbers for AIRT or COOL (which I'm assuming mean airtemp and coolant temp). Airtemp was like 71*f, while COOL was at 180*F after it ideled for awhile. Is that about right? Is the airtemp a little high since it's actually like 30* out? Also there was an EGRT (which I assume means EGR TEMP. It was at like -17*. Could this mean anything?

I also just checked the injectors. When I turn each one off on the logger, they shut off. So that would mean they are working I'd think. The other day, the little solonoid for the FPR was clicking all fast and crazy like, could it all be from a bad ECU possibly?

[niterydr]

If your coolant temp sensor went out, it usually reads something stupid. I think mine read -178 degrees or something like that. That solonoid increases fuel pressure during cold startup. If you want, I can give you mine off the auto to swap out for a test. Let me know.

[Halon]

Swanny. I have the emissions removed, so I tried swapping the lines and the plug over to my unused EGR solonoid since they seem like they are both pretty deng similar. That still did not fix the problem. Was I wrong in thinking that they both should work the same? If they operate totally different, then yes I'd love to borrow yours. But if my idea was actually a right, then I have already ruled out the solonoid as the problem.

[GVR-4579]

yea i have that little solenoid eliminated, i think its pointless, maybe will only add fuel like a choke

[A//// Guy]

I had that same problem when my caps on the ECU were leaking, but you have a new ECU it seems... also behind the radio it was clicking also.

You can get rid of all emmisions and that clicking FPR solenoid under the hood. You might want to look at your FPR itself, maybe its draining all the gas back to your tank and there isnt enough pressure to get the car going again?

Try running just the fuel pump for a few second with the logger, then fire it up and see if it takes? Could be a bad FPR?

[Halon]

Thanks Peter, I'll try that after work! Yes the ECU is new, well new to me. I bought it, and I guess it's a possibility that it could have went bad in the couple weeks I used it. It's always a possibility.

[Outlaw1]

I dunno how I forgot about this, but I have an ECU sitting on the shelf that does the same thing. One day after work I tried to start my car, and the engine just spun and spun and spun. I tried it about twenty times and it wouldn't start up. I had just called my g-friend to bring my spare ECU when I decided to try it one more time. It fired up and ran fine all the way home. Sorry, I had forgotten all about that bad ECU. I even had the same fast clicking fuel pressure solenoid symptom that you have.

[Pimpin Dsmstyle]

Any chance the cas could be causing something like this? I don't know how it would just stop working one day.

[Halon]

OK Well I'm reviving this thread. I just replaced my FPR with an Aeromotive unit. I had thought that possibly my stock one was stuck open or something, and sending too much fuel back to my gas tank. And maybe that also was why I am getting crazy knock readings most the time. Well, this changed nothing. Hell I can't even get it started now. I am thinking about getting my ECU checked out. Is there anyone, or any shop on here that has a way to check an ECU, to see if it's working right?

Also I eliminated that FPR solonoid when I installed the new FPR, so I suppose that is out of the picture as the problem as well now!

CAS, I was also wondering about this, and also that TPS. Is there a way I can see if those both work? I have an SAFC, and when I go to the "sensor Check" menu, and I hit the gas, there's a number on there that goes from like 0 - like 5 or something around that. I'd guess that is the TPS doing it's job? So would that mean it's working right? This problem is driving me nuts!