Stock bolt pattern on a 94 Talon, separate tach

[rk4g63]

I really would prefer something like 17 or 18 dia by 8 to 9 width.
The 8" to 9" will give some serious stability and the 17" to 18" will allow me to use the big brake kit when I have the cash to pull it off.
Comments, anyone?

[Outlaw1]

I don't know how big of a brake setup you want. I had wanted to try a set of Baer 13" brakes on my car. In the meantime I bought a 2G brake setup with Powerslot rotors and axxis pads. I doubt I'll end up with the Baer brakes now just because it stops so good. I think the 9" wheels will stick out pretty bad. An 8" wheel will kinda poke out also, but not bad.

Did you buy some good struts/springs yet?

[rk4g63]

I don't know how big of a brake setup you want. I had wanted to try a set of Baer 13" brakes on my car. In the meantime I bought a 2G brake setup with Powerslot rotors and axxis pads. I doubt I'll end up with the Baer brakes now just because it stops so good. I think the 9" wheels will stick out pretty bad. An 8" wheel will kinda poke out also, but not bad.

Did you buy some good struts/springs yet?


Don't know about the struts and springs - was kinda keeping them aside till I had more cash. Yep, the 8" would be OK. I WAS thinking on the lines of the 13" Baer kit.
How did you get the 2g powerslots to fit on a 1G?
Actually since I have the 94, I have the big brakes, so I'm yet debating about the Baer kit. However, I do know I want bigger and wider wheels, so I might as well keep in mind future associated mods right now.

[Jakey]

Not rotating assembly per say, more of adding rotating weight that shouldn't have to be there. I know its only a few ounces, but I've seen wheel studs break (factory length) when spacers are used with aftermarket wheels. Rims always seat better on the hub instead of the spacer. Well thats what I've found with the mitsubishi's.

OK, wording is key here. Strain should not be a concern here because if RK is seeing any "strain," he's already f*cked since strain is in relation to deformation. Deformation is bad, obviously. What RK should be worried about is an increase in stress, shear stress to be exact. By adding a wheel spacer, as you said, the amount of contact between the lug nut and wheel stud is decreased which increases the amount of shear stress (force/area). If the amount of shear stress exceeds the spec of the wheel stud, strain will occur leading back the RK being f*cked issue.

I don't follow the comment about rims seating better on the hub versus a spacer. Theoretically, as long as the spacer, wheel, and hub are all true, there should be no difference in the way the rim "seats."

[Kracka]

I used the 13" Baer track-kit on my 1G with 17" '97-99 GSX wheels. I also had to buy some spacers (5/16" to be exact) for the wheels to fit over the brakes w/o rubbing. It really wasn't the greatest idea since I retained the stock studs and the lugnut only had a few threads to grip on to, but it seemed to work alright and the thing hauled down very nicely! I can see how spacers will place additional wear on the wheel bearings though. If you buy the proper offset wheel, there is no need for spacers.

[Goat Blower]

Holy old thread Batman.

Wheel type plays a large part in this. Good rims like Volks will fit upgraded brakes even under a 16" wheel. Factory wheels are thick and heavy, and won't fit big brakes as well. Also the factory calipers are very thick, upgraded aftermarket calipers would fit better under smaller rims as well.

I tried to tuck some 13" rotors under my aftermarket 16" rims with factory 93-94 calipers. They didn't fit. After much grinding and persuasion, they fit but I didn't feel good about the clearances with metal expansion under heavy braking, so I sold the rotors. You don't need much braking for drag racing anyways. :-)