Clutch Engagement/Disengagement Issue

[Jakey]

Vehicle: '92 Laser, MT, 6/4
Milage: 97,XXX
Relevant Mods: None
Known drivetrain history: Former owner had clutch replaced by Des Moines Mitsubishi at 79,146 miles, Tranny 1-2 syncro is gone otherwise tranny shifts fine
Issue: My parents called me the other day to inform me that my car had developed some clutch issues. The car drove fine for me the last time it moved but when my parents tried moving it, they informed me that the clutch has developed an issue. When they depressed the clutch and started the car, they found that the clutch pedal did not come back up. After some "playing" with the pedal they were able to get it back up but since then, depressing the clutch results in the clutch pedal staying depressed and the clutch not disengaging. Even reaching down on the pedal and pulling it back up does not make any difference. I have not looked at the car as it 2.5 hours away back home but I would like to solve the issue when I'm home next if at all possible. To me it sounds like either my clutch line is shot and/or my master cylinder failed, similar to what has been described in this thread (http://www.dsmstyle.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8590&highlight=master)

Ideas?

Thanks

[CVD]

Yeah, check your lines. Then check your clutch fork (which should be perfectly fine on a stock clutch). If all else fails it could be your pedal assembly, which would suck.
I'd say you've got a 90% chance that its a leak somewhere and therefore an easy fix.

[Outlaw1]

Leaky lines, master or slave. When there's no pressure in the system the pedal just goes to the floor and wants to stay there because of the assist spring on the pedal assembly. Some fluid and quick bleed would probably get it working again but there's definately a leak and I doubt it will last very long. As easy as these transmissions eat synchronizers, I'd fix the hydrualics right before I drove it again.

[GVR-4579]

Yes, i had a bad master cylinder, so the clutch was not disengaging all the way, it would go out most of the way but after i replaced the master cylinder my second gear high RPM shifts were clean as they could be, no more grinding so dont overlook making sure your clutch hydraulic system is in top shape or you will ruin your transmission much faster.

[Jakey]

Well I finally got around to addressing this. The master cylinder was dry, all the lines were dry, but the slave cylinder was soaked in brake fluid. So I replaced the slave cylinder, put on a Buschur braided stainless clutch line, bled the system, and all was good. However, I do not understand why Mitsu did not use one line to feed the slave cylinder after the primary hydraulic line versus using two seperate lines in a two foot stretch.

[Jakey]

However, I do not understand why Mitsu did not use one line to feed the slave cylinder after the primary hydraulic line versus using two seperate lines in a two foot stretch.

Does anyone happen to know anything about ^^^^?