View Full Version : Timing Belt installation HELP needed
niterydr
05-01-2005, 12:21 AM
http://www.vfaq.com/mods/timingbelt-1G.html
http://www.vfaq.com/mods/timingbelt-2G.html
1ViciousGSX
05-01-2005, 10:05 AM
I used the pin "in & out" method and it works fine. If I remember correctly that's one of the ways the Mitsu manuals says to check it also.
CDeutsch
05-01-2005, 11:21 AM
I haven't found the pin trick in any Mitsu manuals for a DSM, but it's there for a 3S.
According to the manual the standard value for the rod protrusion (on both a 3S and DSM) is 3.8mm-4.5mm (.150-.177 in.). I usually use a drill bit on the dsm to measure this. On the 3S I do the pin trick. When I changed the timing belt a couple weeks ago on the stealth after 70,000 miles I was still able to put the pin in the old tensioner before I removed it. I was pretty happy about that. ;)
Onefast99gsx
05-01-2005, 04:34 PM
Update: Last night i attempted to put the pin back in(which in my case is a tiny drill bit). I got thru the 1st and 2nd hole just fine but the 3rd was difficult. The pin must have been out a bit too far to get into the 3rd. I pryed with little force down on the tensioner arm and i was able to get the pin into the 3rd hole. So with that little bit i'm not going to worry about it. I rechecked the gap with a drill bit and i'm on the high side of .180 in. Maybe + .010-.020". With that little bit i just went ahead and bolted the t-belt cover on, put the pulleys on and said "DONE" to that part of the project. The belt is gonna stretch a little after time anyway.
Thanks guys...
...onto finishing the Magnus which is gonna be more of a pain in the ass
Wizard
05-02-2005, 12:58 AM
Honestly, I have never seen a DSM timing belt actually stretch. I have changed timing belts that have been on for well over 100k miles and was still able to insert the pin before removing the auto-adjuster. Something to keep in mind is that the eccentric pulley is the actual tensioner. The hydraulic auto-ADJUSTER is only there to maintain constant tension on the belt during load and rpm changes. Sad part is, they eliminated the auto-adjuster on later model Hyundai and Kia motors (Mitsu motor), which is probably which they have so much belt noise and have a fairly high belt failure rate. Which can only mean that Mitsu might have eliminated it also. A failed auto-adjuster is usually followed by skipping teeth during engine shutdown. If you are able to press the auto-adjuster by hand, it is no good.
I have done the pin method for many years and have yet to have a problem. As for a tool, I actually just use a screwdriver and apply leverage against the pulley. Then snug the bolt up when I feel it's there. Then if the pin moves in and out freely, i'm set. But the biggest key to doing the timing belt is always, ALWAYS, turn it by hand first. It is nearly impossible for you to bend valves by hand. But that little starter motor is more than capable of doing it. Hell, it can move your car easily enough.
Wiz
Raptor
05-02-2005, 06:08 AM
Sorry, I missed most of this. Is this a six or seven bolt? There is a pretty big difference in the tensioner pulley alignment between the two.
Onefast99gsx
05-02-2005, 08:10 AM
Hi guys- it's a 2g 99 GSX. No i can't push the tensioner down back into the cylinder by hand. I'm not even sure my prying on it did anything. It took the full force of the vise to compress it and get the pin in. It may be .010 to maybe .020 out too much. I can get the pin in but i takes a little pushing to do so. For that little bit i just didn't think it was worth redoing. Now that i have the t-belt cover and pulleys back on, I definately don't want take it apart now. All my timing marks line up perfectly. I went around at least 4 times(6times per) and they are fine.
Thanks for the input.
Raptor
05-02-2005, 09:09 AM
I am going to post this anyway even though you did get it right accidentally or however, but the wrong tech info was given so I will clarify that. For anyone who is doing a 2G 7 bolt from now on, the tensioner pulley holes do not get lined up at 11 oclock like a 6 bolt. They are different, 3 and 5 is about right. I would guess thats why josh posted both vfaq links, so everyone would realize the difference. I have seen it done wrong a few times, it is possible and probably not a good idea.
Onefast99gsx
05-02-2005, 09:25 AM
Thank you Raptor for adding that. That makes me feel alot better. I hate doing a technical project and then wonder if it was done right. It's such a long a tedious project, taking the belts off, motor mount, pulleys, cover, etc.. Some people would probably go around 1 complete time(6 crank revs) and call it a day, but i did it 4 times(24 revs) to make sure the marks were all lining up. Probably over-paranoid but better safe than sorry.
Thanks again for the closure on this.
Raptor
05-02-2005, 09:47 AM
Your welcome. You are right too, it is always better safe than sorry.
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