Dynoed my car.

[EclipseGST]

Well about 2 weeks ago I decided to dyno my GST for the hell of it.

You might need DIVX or a decoder to watch. My buddy hosted the video for me but he did it in AVI.

http://www.revlinegraphics.com/dsmvids/275@15psi.avi

My mods are as follows:
Brand new rebuilt 6 bolt with 3k miles
Motor Mounts
HKS 272/272 cams
HKS Cam Gears
RC 550cc injectors
Walbro 255lph pump (didnt have it at the dyno, installed 2 days later :D Thanks Kyle - QPR)
2.5" LICP
Greddy Type RS on J-pipe
3" to 3.5" and back to 3" UICP
3.5" GM MAF
MAF Translator
24x12x3 Bar and Plate FMIC
ACT 2600# clutch
Kazz LSD
O2 External dump
3" O2 Back, No muffler or resignators ( 2 bends )
S-AFCII
AVC-R
Evo III 16g
Removed:
AC
Emissions
Balance shafts

First run was the best numbers of the day. 275.2whp @ 26psi (HAHA - Really lean)
Second run I turned down the boost and upped the fuel. 266whp @ 20psi. (First run on the video)
Third run I turned down the boost even more cause I was still lean. 269whp @18psi.
Fourth run the vacuum line on the WG blew off and it spiked to 30psi (Got it on Video, didnt think a 16g could do that) BTW: I hate zip ties, from now on I am using hose clamps!
Fifth run I turned the boost down even more. 274.6whp @ 15psi. (Not bad. 11psi less and .6hp decrease :) )

Made some various other runs but everything I did the numbers just kept getting lower.

Now that I have a fuel pump I need to tune and dyno again and see if I can get up around 320-325whp range. Well see, I'll make sure to post the next dyno video up here and see what improvements I make.

[Alpine TSi]

Nice numbers, but I would think you can do better than that with the fuel pump and some race fuel. I put down 320whp with 24 psi, 100 unleaded, a very old weak motor, and no cams.

Nice pump numbers none the less.

[A//// Guy]

Nice deal, yea that pump was really hurting you at those high pressures.

[Shane@DBPerformance]

It should make over 300whp on pump gas once he gets everything figured out with the fuel and goes for 18psi or more on pump gas. 300+whp on pump is a good number for a 16G. On race he should be able to max the turbo and make 350-400whp, judging by how good the power was at only 15psi.

What shop did you dyno at? Is the boost control any better now with the hose clamped on? Your gauge was going crazy on the first run in the dyno, it shouldn't flutter all over the place really quick like that.

[john]

I could never get my AVC-R to work properly. Could be the boost controller..

[EclipseGST]

Yes, It works a lot better now that everything is tight and no loose hoses. Plus the duty on the boost controller was messed up thats why it was fluttering like that. It was set to high so it would over shoot the boost, then open way up and let to much exhaust by on the WG, then it would close again until it evened out. Messed up but now its all good.

I'm kinda getting sick of the whole wheel spin issue anyways so I bought a turbo off a friend today.

Older FP 58 - 56 trim. Should keep traction problems down a little in the lower gears I hope! 2k miles on the turbo, injectors (650's), O2 housing and WG (Tial 38mm), and I bought it for $700. Couldnt pass up a deal like that.

[john]

You will spin the shit out of the tires even more. When the gst had a 16g (untuned), it would start spinning the tires on a 50 roll race. My awd could spin the rears a bit in first and 2nd with just a 50 trim.

[JET]

How were you spinning the rears and not the fronts?

[slowbubblecar]

I think it probably felt like the rears were spinning more since the back was pushing to the side. That is what it seemed to me anyways.

[john]

How were you spinning the rears and not the fronts?

I figured it was the rears as the rear would slide back and forth a bit (similar to launching an AWD on wet ground or in snow).