Tranny Problems

[Alpine TSi]

This is my 92 GVR4

The tranny upshifts fine, even with some hard pulls on her already. The one thing I have noticed is that while slowing down to change lanes, get on an off ramp to another highway, etc... where I am required to shift from fifth to fourth or third because I am slowing down and it would bog if I stayed in fifth, it is very hesitant to downshift unless I am going slower than around 40. If I try to downshift it will either grind, not go in, or go in with a profound thud. I never force it if it doesn't want to go, if I need to I will just slow down enough to where it will go in gear with problem. But that starts to become difficult in rush hour traffic. I have noticed that if I blip the throttle a little while I have the clutch in and coasting it will usually slip in. Also the clutch engagement is fine on it, the clutch was replaced by Shindley recently and broken in appropriately.

The tranny downshifts fine when I come to a stop but I do find that I have to wait a little longer in order to so(ie I always reverse cycle the gears, if I was in fourth I will shift, third, second, then to first if coming to a stop, I will do it slowly as I am coming to the stop, I don't know why I do it, but I find that it helps me shift back into first this way, on just about every manual tranny I have ever had).

Anyone have any ideas? I am thinking about changing over to Redline or such in there to maybe help it, but fear a rebuild might be needed.

Thanks in advance.

[unreal808]

Cause Solution
Air or water in clutch hydraulic fluid - Bleed clutch fluid and replace.
Master cylinder is leaking.- Replace master cylinder.
Slave cylinder is leaking. - Replace slave cylinder.
Clutch pedal rod is worn out. - Replace rod.
Master cylinder pushrod is incorrectly adjusted. - Readjust master cylinder rod.
Incorrect clutch pedal free play adjustment.- Readjust clutch pedal free play.
Transmission is loose, resulting in movement when clutch is depressed.- Tighten loose transmission bolt(s) by front engine mount.
Master cylinder rod too short for current clutch setup. - Lengthen master cylinder rod.
Master cylinder worn out. - Replace old master cylinder.
Slave cylinder worn out. - Replace old slave cylinder.
Poor lubrication on clutch fork and/or pivot ball. - Grease moving parts well.
Worn clutch fork pivot ball. - Shim pivot with one or two 3/8" washers to regain missing travel.
Poor lubrication on pilot shaft or throwout bearing. - Grease throwout bearing very well.
Worn or bent clutch release fork. - Replace fork.
Worn clutch pivot ball. - Replace ball.
Worn out or incorrectly installed clutch / flywheel. Replace clutch / flywheel with new clutch and flywheel machined to correct specifications.

I would try some Red line first but, you will ultimately need a rebuild.

[Pushit2.0]

I would think this is an internal problem, unless this started after the clutch install. The tranny could use a rebuild or some new/better fluid. I would stop trying to down shift when its not needed, but rev-matching the down shift when it is needed will help prolong the life of your dsm tranny.

~John

[LightningGSX]

I have noticed that if I blip the throttle a little while I have the clutch in and coasting it will usually slip in.
This sounds like a clutch/hydraulic issue to me as well, obviously its not disengaging completely.

[Pimpin Dsmstyle]

Shindley examine your tranny at all? or just install the clutch? I think he would find something internal if there was something. I also had this problem and it got worse and worse. I went through and tightened up ALL of my tranny bolts. I came to find they were all loose. ( 3k since the tranny was touched, this happened). After everything was tight ( tranny to motor), the tranny shifted like a tranny with 170k miles on it ( scratchy, but no grinds or thuds). Since thats the quickest / cheapest way to possibly cure the issue, start there.