problem

[scheides]

ecu. Did you do a proper install with the afc, or a blue-snappy-T install? If one thing or the other crossed, buh-bye!

Check the ecu for blackness.

[john]

No, I used the red tap splices. Has worked on the 3 other cars without a problem. I would guess that the ecu is fine but will probly be pulled in a couple of days for dsmlink if the car can get running. The car may have been wheel hopping a bit and knocked a connector loose. May check over tonight.

[john]

The car gets fuel but no spark. The ecu is out of the question so I need to figure out how to test the cas on a 95.

[john]

Could I just wire in a 1g cas? It seems easier than pulling the intake cam and checking it that way.

[LightningGSX]

I believe you can, but the pulses will be inverted.It would let you know if thats the problem though.I'm about 95% sure its your CAS or the CAS's wiring.The easiest thing to do would be to take a multimeter, set it to AC, put the positive lead on the RPM wire of the AFC(or the CAS wire), ground the negative lead and check for voltage during cranking.

[slowbubblecar]

We will try it after school today, Thanks

[john]

I believe you can, but the pulses will be inverted.It would let you know if thats the problem though.I'm about 95% sure its your CAS or the CAS's wiring.The easiest thing to do would be to take a multimeter, set it to AC, put the positive lead on the RPM wire of the AFC(or the CAS wire), ground the negative lead and check for voltage during cranking.

No voltage would mean that the CAS is not functioning right? All the testing is doing is checking for any voltage correct. Then I can use one of my gay voltage testers instead of getting a new battery for the miltimeter.

[LightningGSX]

You're checking for AC voltage though, so unless your gay voltage testers read AC, they won't work.

Yeah no voltage would mean the sensor is not functioning

[john]

Ok, I just got back from checking it. I couldn't read anything off the SAFC wire or the ECU plug. I then went under the hood, popped the connector and checked the wires. With the multimeter grounded on the battery, there was no sign of any voltage on any of the three pins. So it looks like the CAS is shot. Hopefully I can find the one I threw aside when throwing a 2g head on a 1g... Looks like it may be time to swap the t-belt, HG and get some ARPs. Fucking 2gs...

[john]

BTW, the multimeter setting it was tested on was AC 750 I believe.