Questing about crankwalk and my clutch system

[john]

I believe you have to pry on the crank pully (drivers side of the motor). You can do the ghetto fix if you want but you are just delaying the problem. I also haven't heard of a successful CW fix. I believe there is a fix idea on vfaq.

[Onefast99gsx]

ANOTHER UPDATE: Last night again i did both sides this test. I put the dial indicator on the outter lip of the crankshaft pulley. I pryed between the pulley and i guess what would be the plastic timing belt cover. I used the vfaq on this. I absolutely could not get it to go any more than .003-.005 of movement. I would like to add to that, that this appeared to be only stressed movement of the outer part of the pulley itself from prying on it. I put the dial indicator on the inner part of the crankshaft pulley on what be the balancer portion and did the same pry test. At best i got .001-.002 of movement. In all tests whether it be the flywheel side or the pulley side, i pryed as if i wanted to make it move. I have the Mitsubishi 3 volume shop manuals. Normal specs go all the way to .0071 of end movement. Then there is a tolerance level beyond that.

If it had crankwalk, would the crank be able move(crankwalk endplay) all the time whether the be car old or warm?

Thanks!

[Raptor]

It doesn't sound like CW is your issue, even when they are only .007-.009" out, they look like you moved them an inch and it is pretty obvious. I wouldn't worry about that, just find out what is wrong with your clutch engagement, maybe a bent fork or similar.

[1ViciousGSX]

It sounds to me like you are OK on the crankwalk issue. :D

Put it back together and get that clutch adjusted correctly. ;)

[Onefast99gsx]

Thanks you two. I'm feeling a little better about it today. I should point out that the clutch disk is severely worn, almost down to the rivets. There are 2 springs across from each other on the clutch disk. They rotate around very easily and have pretty good sized indentations on them about 1/8" or less wide and about 1/16" deep(not sure from what). Perhaps the pressure plate 'fingers' I'm not sure what those 2 springs purposes are.

I don't know if a bad clutch disk would change engagement points but i thought i'd add it in. I would also like to add that i don't necessarily have a floating disengagement point. If it disengages right off the floor and i change the rod setting, 20 minutes later or so it will engage way off the floor. It will not go back to right off the floor until i dink with the rod again. I guess it's somewhat floating but it doesn't change based on left turns, right turns, clutch use, etc...

Well i am going to put a rebuilt kit in the master AND slave cylinders. Also put a new clutch in. Maybe i'll go with something other than the ACT2600. Do either of you recommend anything besides ACT?

Thanks!

[Raptor]

Southbend, especially if you are running a 7 bolt. Less pressure and still retains the grip. Less money as well. If you havn't already done it, disconnect your clutch safety switch.

[Onefast99gsx]

Rator- sent you a PM. Interested in the SouthBend.

[s1ngletracker]

did you ever find a solution to this? this is exactly the problem i'm having.

[Onefast99gsx]

It was just the clutch master cylinder that was shot. I sent you a PM back. How I found it was because of this article in the link below. It's called 2g pedal "pump up". It's the exact symptoms that I was having. Scroll down towards the bottom of the link.

http://www.roadraceengineering.com/clutchandflywheeltech.htm

[clean2g]

To: Onefast99gsx

Was your clutch pedal really hard near the floor and felt like something was under too much tension, and every time you adjusted it, it wouldn't really do anything? I think I have the same problem but I'm not sure, I've tried to adjust it but I don't know if I'm doing it right because nothing changes really after I make an adjustment.