Considerations for a motor running N2O

[Alpine TSi]

So does anyone know if DSMLink for 1g's will have a seperate NOS table and activation device like it does currently in the 2G version?

[Shane@DBPerformance]

Does the 2G version of DSMLink have a N2O table? I thought it just had some activation stuff.

[LightningGSX]

So does anyone know if DSMLink for 1g's will have a seperate NOS table and activation device like it does currently in the 2G version?
I can program that right into your eprom and save you alot of cash.

[Alpine TSi]

Shane, now that I look at it DSMlink for 2g's only has an activation section, not a seperate table.

Eric, if it turns out that the 1G version doesn't do it, I was going to ask you anyway. I am looking for something like DSMLink offers, but with also a seperate table that will activate when the nitrous is active, and the return to the normal table when it is deactivated.

[niterydr]

If your talking nitrous control, the worst case senerio, if the eprom can't do anything is use the 2nd map on the s-afc for the nitrous tune. Im pretty sure he can pull timing via the eprom and an input or something.

[LightningGSX]

Adding a second nitrous map would be difficult, for me, not impossible though.I don't know if this is what you are looking for but, a little while back, I was working on ECU nitrous control.Basically the A/C button arms the system.When armed and certain conditions are met (load,rpm,speed,TPS etc), the ECU will switch on the A/C output(now hooked to nitrous solenoids), fire the nitrous while retarding X amount of timing.The amount of timing pulled could be loosely based on load, maybe a few different retard values to go with a few different load points.

[Pushit2.0]

I would assume he was only looking for an on/off switch and pulling timing x-amount. But the extra fuel will be there so thats good.

~John

[Sean485]

Have you ever ridden in a car with a "big" turbo? My 20g shows positive manifold pressure at 2100rpms, I cant say when it shows full spool because I am still only at 18psi for the clutch break in but it is hitting that 18psi by 3500rpms EASY and it wants to keep pulling far beyond redline, something a smaller turbo such as a 16g wont be able to do since it runs out of air at higher rpms, especially with mods as simple as a set of cams or ported head.

If you are wanting to run 20-22psi on the 16g on pump gas you would be severly limited in the cr you could run. A turbo that is larger and more efficient at that boost/airflow level could make more power without the risk of detonation even with higher cr and pump gas. Also remember that if you are choosing to run a "big" shot of nitrous with a small turbo vs a big turbo (because you choose to race from 1500rpms and dont want to wait for the turbo to spool or downshift) then the turbo is going to become a restriction in your exhaust and intake path...

My $.02

[Shane@DBPerformance]

A 20G is not a big turbo they spool pretty fast, it has a little more flow capability than the EVO III 16G, but it still runs out of steam on the 2.0 at higher boost. The EVO III 16Gs are not nearly as small as the old regular 16G and "Big 16G". People are making around 400whp with the EVO III 16Gs. You were lucky to make 350whp with the old Big 16G. Getting over 425whp out of a 20G takes some work. He already has the EVO III 16G and doesn't want to spend money on something else, that is probably the major reason he is sticking with it.

Why are you running 18psi while breaking in a clutch? You are supposed to take it easy during clutch break-in and not boost the car at all.

[Sean485]

A 20G is not a big turbo they spool pretty fast, it has a little more flow capability than the EVO III 16G, but it still runs out of steam on the 2.0 at higher boost. The EVO III 16Gs are not nearly as small as the old regular 16G and "Big 16G". People are making around 400whp with the EVO III 16Gs. You were lucky to make 350whp with the old Big 16G. Getting over 425whp out of a 20G takes some work. He already has the EVO III 16G and doesn't want to spend money on something else, that is probably the major reason he is sticking with it.

Why are you running 18psi while breaking in a clutch? You are supposed to take it easy during clutch break-in and not boost the car at all.
The evoIII does not flow significantly more than its big or small cousins but I dont have the compressor maps handy to see exactly what they flow(the compressor wheel is ligher so it spools faster but doesn't flow that much more). I did compare them though at one time and IMO a anything less than a 20g is really a waste of money unless your stock turbo dies and you just need something to replace it. Like you said the 20g is not that large of a turbo so its perfectly streetable, they can be had for not that much money (got mine with 6 hours of run time on it for 450), it does require a fmic and injectors but can be run on the stock internals fine, and it has gone 10's. Granted most people wont be running 10's with thiers but there aren't many cars out there that will touch a properly tuned dsm with a 20g and you dont need to keep refilling a bottle to do it ;)

As for the clutch clutch wear is only occuring during engaugement/disengaugement so assuming your taking it easy on the shifts and not launching it you wont be causing any more wear on the clutch by boosting it once its in gear and moving unless one has enough torque to force the clutch to slip once the pedal is fully released and I highly doubt am making enough power to do that with an an act 2900. Also 18psi is about the lowest boost i can run with the external wg.