Easy Out Broke Off...

[IndiEP]

Upon removing a broken exhaust stud that was flush w/the head, the easy out broke off in the stud. I was only on the second turn when it snapped, so its not in to far. I grounded it flat and started drilling over again but the easy out is so hard that its impossible to drill through. I’ve grounded away as much metal as possible to try and get past it so I can resume drilling. I’m now ½ into the stud (broke completely flush w/head) and now that I’m drilling again I’m hardly putting a divot into the stud.

I’m using good drill bits (cobalt and industrial bits), good drill and, drilling at a medium speed and oiling the bit/stud. My dad and myself have been working on this the past two nights and its impossible to get a hole drilled. I drilled the original hole w/a crappy bit and was done in about 5min. Now there is prolly about 40min of drilling.

The head is still on the block but if anyone has suggestions/ideas, it would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

[john]

Nah, you have about covered it. Use cobalt bits, oil, and go slow. When tapping the new hole, use thread cutting oil and go slowely. Use anti sieze when installing the new studs.

[A//// Guy]

Yank the head and take it to red rooster and have them pull it if there is no way you can.

Good luck, I hate those situations.

[Enes]

normal drill bits tighten the bolt while you are drilling.

try getting reverse drill bits, i actually didnt even need to use ez out on a lot of broken bolt removals because of the fact that i used reverse drill bits and it would slowly work its way out too..

_E

[IndiEP]

I'm going to try everything possible to aviod removing the head. Where would I get reverse drill bits?

[JET]

Alright, cobalt bits are NOT the way to go. You need to get a carbide tipped masonry bit. The steel shaft will allow it to flex some and not chip so easily. You will still need to be careful not to let it chatter.

Another option is that they well bits for the dremel tool that have ground up diamond on the outside. That will grind away the easy out.

Like Enes said, left hand drills should be the first option to get out a dead bolt/stud. Don't go straight to the easy out, that should be one of the last options.

[IndiEP]

Just so happens that I have a masonary bit so I'm gonna try that out.

Jet- I was using dremel dimond tiped cutting bits w/my dye grinder (trying to keep the rpms down) they worked a little bit but the pointed stone was working better untill I'd round off the point. Where could I pick up some heary duty bits that are still small? I'm guessing it be the same things you use for porting but if I could create a hole then I could pound in the crew extractor.

[JET]

Make sure the masonry bit is carbide tipped.

I think I found the bits at sears? They are 1/8" and feel like sand paper on the outside. Definately not like a porting bit. EZ-outs are a pain in the ass if you break them off, that is why I almost never use them. Over a 3/8" bolt you are ok because it is a big one, but under than and you can run into trouble.

[IndiEP]

Well I don't think the masonary bit I had was carbid 'cause it didn't do a thing. I've also done some creative ideas involving welding but I can't get any welds to adhere so the easy out must be in there further than I though. Thanks for the help guys, I'm trying everything I can that doesn't involve removing the head.

[john]

Masonry bits are carbide tipped and come in several sizes, not only 1/8 inch. If you are drilling the stud out and tapping it, you will want to use a 1/4 bit or .272" bit. 1/4" is the most common. If you use a carbide tipped bit you will want to work slowely. If you don't you will burn the carbide off the tip. Start with a smaller bit to get started. Then gradually go up in size. I have never used masonry bits when drilling out a stud and easy out before...