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AJ
08-23-2016, 07:12 AM
A running 2gr, can be found locally for $1100 to $2000 all day long it seems. There are a lot out there that seem to come out of Rav4s with lower mileage.

b00sted_spyder
08-23-2016, 07:28 AM
Get a 2gr that has the oil cooler. Can be found in the Sienna and Rav4 with the tow package.

Kracka
08-23-2016, 07:38 AM
Funny how the engine from a mundane boring vehicle can become a great powerplant in the right setup!

AJ
08-23-2016, 07:50 AM
Funny how the engine from a mundane boring vehicle can become a great powerplant in the right setup!

True that... with this, I'd say having at least 250whp with nearly the same torque in a car that weights 2500-2700 lbs should be a nice starting point.

I plan on getting one off a tow package car. The only thing I'm still trying to figure out is the whole ECU/Wiring harness/Immobilizer shit.

I'd love to have this be as clean and simple as possible in the engine bay. It also will have AC, this would be be driven on the Mitsu Cruise next Spring! ;)

b00sted_spyder
08-23-2016, 07:57 AM
True that... with this, I'd say having at least 250whp with nearly the same torque in a car that weights 2500-2700 lbs should be a nice starting point.

I plan on getting one off a tow package car. The only thing I'm still trying to figure out is the whole ECU/Wiring harness/Immobilizer shit.

I'd love to have this be as clean and simple as possible in the engine bay. It also will have AC, this would be be driven on the Mitsu Cruise next Spring! ;)

One of my buddy is in the process of putting a 2gr in his mr2. He's going with the megasquirt to bypass the immobilizer. He's also running a mustang throttle body so he can use the stock gas pedal instead of the electric stuff. Otherwise some early 2gr came with no immobilizer ecu which will be hard to find. I believe Gouky just found a way to bypass ecu with immobilizer and change the rev limiter.

AJ
08-23-2016, 08:07 AM
yeah, those are good options as well. I'll make my decision once I get this motor out, apart, and see if it makes sense to just have it repaired or not. I do have a spare set of rods and a spare crank as well that came with the car so it could be just machine work and assembly to get it going again at the current power levels of between 300 and 400 depending on fuel and tune. If I stay with boost... decisions decisions...

Goat Blower
08-23-2016, 11:22 AM
Is it a factory turbo car?

A//// Guy
08-23-2016, 11:47 AM
Gonna be a fun project! Get cookin on it!

AJ
08-23-2016, 11:52 AM
Is it a factory turbo car?

The chassis, no. Here is the actual car for sale I have before the change of engine and and such.

https://forums.mnautox.com/forum/marketplace/for-sale-wanted/20952-sold-1993-toyota-mr2-the-zebra

From what I see I have a turbo trans for the setup in the car now and the spare trans from the motor that was in it. So much spares... ha!

AJ
09-16-2016, 02:27 PM
I've decided to keep the turbo setup in the car an rebuild the motor if it can be saved. It's the cheapest way to get it going again at the end of the day and I should be anywhere between 300 to 500 whp by the time it's all said and done, depending on the motor build aspect. Hope to have the motor out this fall yet and the car running sometime early spring.