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bramagedained
02-22-2016, 09:04 PM
No, that wont happen until either the first or last weekend of spring break since I need my Dad to borrow a welder from work.
I didn't do it yet because I needed the front suspension changed so I can play with the ride height.
bramagedained
02-24-2016, 08:25 PM
The second side came apart just as easy as the first.
Here is the machined spacer to make the offset of the rotor correct. IIRC they are the same rotors for a 300zx.
http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h144/Bramage/260z/IMAG0523_zpsxmfgzmsp.jpg
Some comparisons.
Stock caliper vs the Toyota ones:
http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h144/Bramage/260z/IMAG0524_zpsbowffvda.jpg
http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h144/Bramage/260z/IMAG0526_zpsx72jjacz.jpg
Second side complete:
http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h144/Bramage/260z/IMAG0527_zpsdytpxhbj.jpg
On the ground. I think it will probably sit about where it is for final ride height. I can always drop it down for the "MOAR LOW" if I for some reason feel the need to wear a flat bill and try to look cool.
This leaves me with about 2-3" of bump travel before getting into the bump stop, and about as much droop. These cars have a surprising amount of wheel travel.
http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h144/Bramage/260z/IMAG0530_zpscpzehchd.jpg
http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h144/Bramage/260z/IMAG0529_zps5uz6cur2.jpg
niterydr
02-24-2016, 10:44 PM
Project is coming along!!
bramagedained
04-01-2016, 12:53 PM
I've had an engine apart before exactly one time, when I was 18 and in High school. Mostly, it was a family friend that did the work while I sort of tried to learn what was going on.
I have it written down somewhere, but, the iron heads that were on it were a 70cc chamber with small valves.
The Cam was a copy of one of the early performance cams that came from GM.
It was topped with an Edelbrock Streetmaster intake that I guess they only sold in the late 70's.
With help from Weggy, it wasn't that bad to pull out and only took maybe an hour since I pretty much had everything already disconnected.
http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h144/Bramage/260z/IMAG0580_zps0bklpuid.jpg
The Datsun has a surprising amount of room for the engine/trans. It's just too bad that the steering shaft is in a weird spot. It basically ensures that no long tube headers will fit, short of a custom set. There was once a specific set make by Hooker that is NLA.
http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h144/Bramage/260z/IMAG0579_zpsrvjizqx1.jpg
Soaked with degreaser:
I ended up with a Comp XE284H, Victor Jr, and Promaxx heads.
The castings for the heads look nice.
http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h144/Bramage/260z/IMAG0566_zpsnpzduorw.jpg
http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h144/Bramage/260z/IMAG0569_zpstfiglrtz.jpg
http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h144/Bramage/260z/IMAG0568_zps32etebeb.jpg
Pile of Comp stuff with a bottle brush hone and new rings.
http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h144/Bramage/260z/IMAG0570_zpscaejttsd.jpg
After running the bottle brush hone through it. There was no carbon ring at the top of the bores and there was still a very faint crosshatch from whenever this thing was apart before.
It was already .040 over.
After running the hone through:
http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h144/Bramage/260z/IMAG0584_zpsm5qx88br.jpg
The bearings looked ok, so I just put it back together with the same ones in it. Once I had it back together it sat at ~35psi of oil pressure at warm idle@900-1000rpm with 30wt break in oil.
I guess the Streetmaster was the first single plane designed by Edelbrock, so I took a picture of it next to the Vic Jr.
http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h144/Bramage/260z/IMAG0571_zpsvbhsn0ho.jpg
I copper spray'd steel shim gaskets for the heads when I put it back together. I didn't actually CC the pistons(flat tops w/valve reliefs) at TDC(.026 in the hole) or the chambers, but, by math it should be just 10.2:1. When I plugged in the cam, to a calculator it gave me just under 7.8:1 for DCR.
http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h144/Bramage/260z/IMAG0591_zps64uigfyz.jpg
It ended up not being worth the wait time/cost of the tool, but, I did actually buy a pushrod length checker. It's like a regular pushrod, but, you can adjust it's length. You color the valve stem tips with sharpie and put on the rocker arm/lifter/pushrod and turn it over by hand, you want the witness mark to be in the middle 1/3 of the valve stem.
http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h144/Bramage/260z/IMAG0590_zpsmotcxjyo.jpg
A 3500 stall converter went between the motor and trans when I put it back together.
It actually slid right back into place so easily that I had it bolted up alone before my Dad got home to help me.
http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h144/Bramage/260z/IMAG0593_zps9pge02p4.jpg
Now, everything was fine and dandy and I was going to fire it up the next morning, which was a Sunday. Until I found this in the HEI. Noticed when I went to swap the 4/7 plug wires since the comp cam changes the firing order.
http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h144/Bramage/260z/IMAG0594_zps4kmszg6w.jpg
http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h144/Bramage/260z/IMAG0595_zpsbwua3qau.jpg
I put about 5000 miles on the car last summer, including driving it back to MN from VA. I never noticed an issue or any misfires.
I just bought the summit HEI rebuild kit.
It was so loud in the garage, my phone didn't like it. I threw the cast ram-horns back on, with some cheap ass glass packs shoved onto where I sawzall'd the old exhaust off. I figured it might help not piss off the neighbors too bad, since I live in a cul-de-sac.
It fired right up and per comp and the internet I kept it at 2000-2500 rpm for about 30 minutes to wear the lifters into the cam. I did get a pre-luber and used that first, before then throwing the HEI in and starting it.
The video is after that was finished with.
BK_PCRBU2RE
There were no rogue noises from the motor at all, which left me quite pleased with myself. I still need to figure out what to do about headers. The cast manifolds will not be staying.
I know I should have changed the oil right away, but, I didn't think that through to have oil or a new filter on hand. I intend to cut the filter that was on there apart to inspect it.
I don't have the fuel cell installed yet so I just ran some hose into a fuel jug.
Lastly for this round of stuff, I got the shifter mounted. It had some B&M thing in it before, that had no neutral lockout or gear indicator.
I had bought the cheap ratchet from Amazon and got shipped the Stealth, which they told me to just keep.
http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h144/Bramage/260z/IMAG0601_zpsftgcvtcb.jpg
The console is honestly pretty fugly. I'm thinking about buying a small sheet of carbon fiber to use as a trim panel to cover up the hole to make it look better. But, that has nothing to do with the function of the car so it can wait. I still need to take the cover back off of it to hookup the neutral safety and reverse light switches.
The next project is probably mounting the fuel cell.
Kracka
04-01-2016, 01:14 PM
Work faster!!! :lol:
goodhart
04-01-2016, 04:28 PM
What else is needed to make it road worthy?
93gtpeater
04-01-2016, 06:49 PM
How the hell was the ls swap not cheaper then rebuilding that motor? Lol. Should be a nice setup for a year or 2. Motor should make good power with those heads and cam. Good work. Can't wait to see this thing in person.
bramagedained
04-01-2016, 08:59 PM
What else is needed to make it road worthy?
Exhaust, driveshaft, install the fuel cell and flares.
How the hell was the ls swap not cheaper then rebuilding that motor? Lol. Should be a nice setup for a year or 2. Motor should make good power with those heads and cam. Good work. Can't wait to see this thing in person.
It was less than half as much, and should keep me happy for a couple years.
Which will give me time to pick up a motor and have it setup for full-retard power.
Goat Blower
04-02-2016, 11:10 AM
Wow, awesome progress! Those wheels and tires make the car. Love all the mods so far, this thing is going to be sweet.
bramagedained
05-24-2016, 10:32 PM
I've been super busy trying to get the car done, and have neglected all of the build threads I have.
I have been taking pictures along the way, however, they were on my old phone, which I dumped to a thumb drive before getting a new one. Now I'm not sure where that thumb drive is.
Anyway, I finished the headers, exhaust, and fuel cell.
I started with some cheap off the shelf headers for a camaro I think and had to modify them to fit. I ended up buying a box of 1-3/4" bends and going to town. I had to change one primary on the passenger side and three on the driver side to clear a suspension mount and the steering shaft. The steering shaft actually passes through the header.
The exhaust I made, too.
It has two 3.5" dynomax bullet mufflers on the header collectors, mostly to act as a collector extension and partially to try and drop a little noise.
Then it reduces down to 2.5", goes through an X-pipe, and ends up going through two 2.5" summit turbo mufflers.
Based on what I can find, 2.5" is more than enough for the power it will make.
I bought a set of universal ceramic boot plug wires since three of them are very close to the headers, I cut those to length and got that job done today as well.
I had it running today for the first time with a full exhaust and the first time with fuel in the fuel cell instead of just running a hose to a gas can.
It's a 16gal RCI fuel cell. I ran -8AN line through a filter and up to the mechanical fuel pump on the motor. Eventually, this should become the return line when I have a boosted LS motor in the thing.
I cut out the floor/spare tire well in the back and made a frame out of 1" square tube that the straps hang from to secure it.
I made a template for the floor and I should have that cut out for me by the weekend, I'm also having a box made to cover the top of the cell with an access panel to fill the thing. This will keep the fuel totally outside of the passenger compartment.
When I find the pictures I'll upload and post them.
For now anyway:
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