Ricks-TURBO TALON

[talonsway]

My 95 awd talon has been a project now of mine for about a year. Being my first car was a 96 esi, it took only 3 months before i wanted to go turbo, after hearing about the power you can put down. So at the age of 16 i drove out to castle rock WI with some friends to get my 2nd dsm. Made a deal at 2200 dollars and made the drive home with terrible breaks, and was surprise to make it home. The car came with a big 16g, FMIC, and a set of gauges that were not hooked up (Boost, A/F, and Oil pressure) and was said to be on 560cc injectors. But to fast forward a year to where i am now with the car it has been through quite a bit.

Very first thing i did was throw on my xxr 527 rims that i had in my closet for my esi. Then replace the grinding transmission. I was able to pick one up locally, along with a 2gb talon front bumper, and had enough money left over to install a ACT 2900 clutch along with a light weight 7-bolt fidanza flywheel.


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And this is what the car was sitting like when i was working on getting some 2ga's headlights and shaving the front bumper


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Then i finally got some 2ga headlights with a HID kit i put in, looked good for now so i will keep it till i find a nice stock set. I also ended up plasti dipping the 2gb talon front bumper.


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Next thing i did was install my Hallman MBC, Crower 272/272 cams, revised lifters.



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Next thing that came in the mail was a VC with -8an fitting on it. I made a catch can at my school, and threw together a catch can system. also got a 3inch turbo back exhaust, with a test pipe from megan racing installed.



Then i got a wally 255 fuel pump, aeromotive AFPR, and a set of PTE 880cc.






When i got to installing my new pte injectors i found out that it was on stock injectors at the time. And know when i look back at it i should have noticed this but i was, and am young and dumb.


This entire time i have not driven the car one mile sense it made the drive home from getting it from Wisconsin. And it was really bothering me, cuz all my money was going into it. So i needed a way to tune. I ended up going with a black box set up and getting a laptop, cables, and a ecu locally. After a couple weeks of trying to get the laptop set up and getting a flash connector in there i was finally ready to tune. That black box lasted about 1 week into my attempt to tune when i bricked it. Was kinda mad but hey im learning. Decided that i needed help, and had a guy on dsmtuners that was helping me tune. We didnt get far as multiply things kept going wrong boost leaks, bad MAF, Exhaust manifold leaks, bad fuel pressure, tps, and bad front o2 sensor. So we stopped the tuning process as i had to save some money back up after getting excited one night and buying a set of megan racing coil overs 32 way damping with a ingalls front camber kit and a home made rear camber kit.

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After the parts bug went away i realized i went into this to quick. So i got a new front o2 sensor, new MAF, fixed all my boost leaks. Then i thought before i give tuning another shot i might as well do a timing belt job. Also invested in some covers to keep it protected. So on went the belt along with new water pump ect...




Now we are getting to where i am today. Trying to install a 2g tps using evo scan that i will be attempting tomorrow.. Just trying to get a tune on it so i can drive it, has been a year sense i have drove it. As much as i love to work on it i need to get it driving. Im also getting low on cash after buying a 98 a4 quattro for winter.


So the car is sitting currently in the drive way. Hopefully i can figure out my tps situation so i can give tuning another shot. Just would like to see it parked away for the winter while i can save up for the next set of parts.

The goals for the car is to be a reliable DD on a 16g. By spring i would like to be on SD, E85 and maybe putting my painting skills to the test. But i dont want to get ahead of my self just would like it to be running first. THings i am going to attack during winter are:

1. Inability to hold fuel pressure
2. Work on a drivable tune with out bricking my ecu.


As of right now this is how the car sits. Wont allow me to upload more than 10 pictures right now.

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Mods list:
pte 880cc
walbor 255
Aeromotive AFPR
Big 16g turbo
Hallman MBC
Unknown FMIC
Hard piping with recirculating HKS sequential BOV
Crower 272/272
revised 3g lifters
1g throttle body with by-pass plate
xxr 527 18"x 8.75 +35 offset
Nitto 235/40/18 tires
meagan racing 32 way dampening coilovers
Ingalls front camber kit
Home made rear camber kit
3inch turbo back megan racing exhaust with test pipe
aem uego A/f gauge
aem oil pressure gauge
aem analog boost gauge
flashable black box using evo scan to log
1g CAS
B&M short throw shifter
ACT 2900
Fidanza Flywheel
all emissions have been deleted


I have missed many things that have gone on with the car sense i have gotten it but will keep this updated as the car continues to grow. Thanks for reading so far and keep tuned for updates.

[C3L1CA]

Car looks pretty nice in the few pictures that showed up for me. Keep at it and figure out all the bugs and they make for a pretty good daily

[talonsway]

Got my 2g non cruise control cable today in the mail. That will be going on this weekend. Also looking at moving my fuse box down to the passenger wheel well this weekend.

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Also gave an attempt to adjust my 2g tps, with the 30 mins of sunlight I had after work. Iam trying to use evo scan, and I can log the tps voltz and can easliy set it to .63v. But I read it is more important to have the ips dialed in. I do have a 1g throttle body and am using a 2g tps. For the throttle stop I put a screw in place of the 1g ips. The problem is, I can't find the spot where the ips switches manual says it's suppose to switch when a .45mm feeler gauge is between throttle stop. I will give it another shot with a different tps and see what that gives me

[talonsway]

Had enough time today to rip out the cruise control and install the non cruise cable. Really gives a guy some space.

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Also got my TPS adjusted correctly. And started the car up ( found out my starter is starting to go out too). But still having problems with the idle. When i first start it and it is cold it will not idle unless i give it gas, not until the car is a little warmed up that it will idle. Once it is warmed up it will idle smooth, but once i give it gas and let go, the idle wants to hang at about 2k. And then when it settles back down the A/F go all the way lean and the car stumbles and wants to die. This is the first time this has happened and this started after i rebuilt my throttle body. Any of you guys know what i can check? i can get a log if it would help out.

[talonsway]

Snow came to quick for me. Came home from work monday to see this:


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My garage is a complete mess right now. Im helping my old man put new cabinets up for the garage and it is a disaster. So no work has been done to the car. I know i do need to get my ride height adjusted and bring it in for an aliment but dont know if i can make it in there with the way the car runs right now. So i will have to cross that bridge when i get there. But as soon as she gets in the garage i have plenty of stuff to do. Have a fender that i would like to put on but needs to be painted maybe i will give it a shot along with relocating my fuse box.

[talonsway]

Not much of anything really happen. Spent most of my weekend welding up storage racks, and painting cabinets. But i picked up a driver side fender to replace mine that has a dent and rust. Also a 2g throttle body. I rebuilt it and put on a block off plate.



A while back when i was trying to tune. I had problems pulling codes from the car. The engine light was on and it would say there where no codes. I used 3 different scanners. So i ended up clearing them using evoscan and forgetting about them. But i got a App for my iphone called EngineLink, and using a ELM327 OBD2 scan tool it pulled the codes with ease. Came up with 4 codes:

P0120- Throttle/ pedal position sensor

P0110- Intake air temperature sensor

P0100- Mass or volume air flow circuit

P0105- Manifold absolute pressure/ barometric pressure

So plan is going to start to get each of those codes fixed, and hopefully that will fix my idle issue i have going on. And if not i will put on the 2g throttle body that i have with the block off plate.

[goodhart]

Sounds like you have some issues to clean up before tuning

[C3L1CA]

I had a 1g throttle body on my car but never had any issues with it. I had a 2g tps sensor on it sent to the .63v via dsmlink and just had a block off plate on the bottom so no other sensors. I had no issues other than what you'd expect with no idle motor as I had to keep my foot on the gas when it was warming up and had to blip the throttle when going to neutral but nothing crazy. Never messed with any throttle stops or anything like that, just bolt on and go

[talonsway]

I had a 1g throttle body on my car but never had any issues with it. I had a 2g tps sensor on it sent to the .63v via dsmlink and just had a block off plate on the bottom so no other sensors. I had no issues other than what you'd expect with no idle motor as I had to keep my foot on the gas when it was warming up and had to blip the throttle when going to neutral but nothing crazy. Never messed with any throttle stops or anything like that, just bolt on and go


I think i might rock the 1g throttle body and a block off plate. The car is gonna be driven only in the summer so it shouldnt be a problem!


Would anyone be able to tell me sense im getting codes that are hinting that my MAF is bad or bad wiring ? And i want to go to SD. Would this be the right time to do that? or will it still cause problems even if i eliminate the MAF and go to SD. So basically switch to SD or buy another MAF?

[talonsway]

So tonight i looked into the wiring on my MAF and found out that 2 wires where broken, easy fix.


Then whipped the laptop out and scanned for codes using evo scan. And what i came up with was very inconsistent.. The list below is the all the codes that came while scanning for codes:

1. vehicle speed sensor
2. barometric pressure sensor
3. knock sensor
4. injector circuit
5. fuel pump relay
6. Ignition coil
7. Ignition circuit

Some times i would scan and would only get two or three of these codes some times i would get all of them.

Looking to get some help/suggestions on what to do. Kinda overwhelmed with all these error codes, and why when i scan it is so inconsistent. Any help is appreciated!!!!!