1/2 Filled block & Block machining

[Speedfreak]

Understood. But let me pass on some lessons learned from personal experience. Don't put too much time or money into any given motor thinking that if you build it a certain way or with a certain recipe, that it will be the last motor for a while. I've done that, and then something random happens and that motor turns into junk and you have to start over. My advice, don't put that much time or money into a single motor build unless you are being paid for it (racecar/sponsors).

Just my old man opinion, but it comes from experience... shit happens sometimes and all that time and money is wasted.

[turbotalon1g]

Thanks, I will honestly consider it. I value those opinions of those who have more experience than me.

[Pushit2.0]

I have my race motor and backup motor hardblocked. I use the Hardblock brand and my backup motor is a partial fill, half way up the main water pump hole. My race motor only has 1" of water at the top. The big pain with filling a block past the top of the main water pump hole is getting water to flow again, takes 3 hours of porting. The main thing with the 4g63 is the 5.5" of unsuported cylinder wall. I had a cylinder wall crack on me in 2010, not fun. The hard block will add to your oil temps, so run good oil or have a good oil cooler on the car and oil temp gauge, anything below 200 for synthetic oil is fine. And run your piston to wall clearance loose, I set my race motor at .006", my back up motor after 7000 street miles at 250hp showed some cylinder wall scuffing so the piston to wall was a little tight for a partial fill, water temps for booth motors, back up and race motor stay around 185-190 driving down the road. Then in 2011 I did a new motor and CP pistons Carrillo rods and a 3/4 fill on my block and switched to E98 fuel, we saw a lot less knock noise and at similar boost levels E85 no hard block, to E98 and a 3/4 fill we made 70 more whp at DB uncorrected, so from 650 in 2010 to 720 in 2011. We were able to add a lot of timing and knock noise stayed low and power just went up, up, up.

For the best results have the block cleaned, then block off the water pump holes and acid etch the block (inside the water jacket), install your main studs and torque to spec, then with the water pump blocked off level the block on a bench, then mix your hard block and start to fill, measure your depth with a screw driver or piece of welding rod, then once you are happy with the level use a air hammer on the side of the block and hammer the sides of the block to work out the air bubbles, then put your torque plate on with a similar gasket and studs you will use for machine work and final assembly.

Let the block setup for atleast 24hours then port out the water pump main hole to allow full flow again, then bring to John Gosh for machine work.

~John

[turbotalon1g]

Thanks for the help!

[dsmDolney]

Ive been reading on this ever since this thread came up and am kindof interested in it since i plan on building a 800 plus hp motor this winter/spring. But im still trying to fully understand what filling a block or 1/2 filling is and or what it does. I cant find a legit answer really. Basically what i understand is ur filling ur blocks water jackets and water pump wholes if i am correct ?? And filling ur block makes the block stronger if thats right ?? Someone correct me if i am wrong. Just want to figure this out ha ha

[turbotalon1g]

^. That is it.
You are filling up the coolant passages, to prevent the block from flexing. 1/2 fill is usually up to the bottom of the water passage that runs to the water up. FFull fill is the block filled completely.

Being honest, I'm taking the advice above and trying to find a basic eagle/ross/wiseco motor

[dsmDolney]

Ok cool thank you Aaron for answering. I think i might have to do alot more research on this topic and maybe get it done to my block. I think i would want a pro to do this tho being it to gosh or something