The Lady. IIRA Ice race/ weekend warrior car

[JET]

Do you play league of legends too? Car is in really good shape, have fun!

[Ryze]

League of legends? No idea what that is

[JET]

Alrighty, one of the characters is Ryze :P

[Ryze]

7/17/14
Well did some research and some work tonight.
Started by removing the disconnected EGR valve to make a block off plate. I got it cut out of metal but forgot my drill at work so couldn't finish it.
After that I removed the cruise control throttle cable in anticipation to install a non cruise cable I thought I had, but after I removed it found out its just part of the cruise control cable..so now I need to find a non cruise control cable :/
http://i647.photobucket.com/albums/uu199/ryangarage/Mobile%20Uploads/20140717_211308.jpg (http://s647.photobucket.com/user/ryangarage/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20140717_211308.jpg.html)

I've been intrigued by aerodynamics of race cars for awhile, and I have been ice racing for ~6 years now and have always been curious why no one runs any sort or aero. The general consensus is with lower average speeds aero is not necessary. My argument is that auto-x cars use aero to help with grip with generally lower average speeds. Why can't we use it to benefit on the ice. With high slip angles, higher than even rally cars what aerodynamic devices should I consider.
I have been thinking about making a aggressive spoiler, similar to CSP cars in auto-x or Nascar
IE http://www.gotcone.com/photos/plog-content/images/2013-scca-tirerack-solo-national-championships/csp/img_3248.jpg
Also making some side skirts and front splitter to help with the front.

During ice racing the straights we can see speeds in excess of 100mph, and as you can guess that speed on ice the car is unsettled. Driving on the studs at that speed, you get a feeling like your floating, and unfortunately the tires really only work if you are on the gas so you have to keep your foot in it. My THEORY is that MAYBE we can over come some of that instability with some added downforce, again this is mostly theory because there hasn't been much in proof that it'll work. For now I'm looking for 1G's that have benefited from some sort of aero.

[goodhart]

Rock auto has non cruise cables for~ $25 shipped

[Ryze]

Alright here is an update.
I haven't been doing to much to it lately. I am going to vegas in 2 weeks and I figured I better not spend to much money on this thing right now. Hopefully I can finish it completely with my winnings when I come home :rollinglaugh:
how it sits right now
http://i647.photobucket.com/albums/uu199/ryangarage/20140728_215335.jpg (http://s647.photobucket.com/user/ryangarage/media/20140728_215335.jpg.html)

Anyways, since this thing was rebuilt in 2007 and has been solely raced since, I wanted to check the health of the engine.
I am a full time auto technician, and I tend to have a few more fancy tools than the standard guy, mostly because I am lazy and would rather work smarter than harder.
Snap on Modis scantool/4 channel scope
http://i647.photobucket.com/albums/uu199/ryangarage/20140728_215131.jpg (http://s647.photobucket.com/user/ryangarage/media/20140728_215131.jpg.html)
1000amp current clamp
http://i647.photobucket.com/albums/uu199/ryangarage/20140728_215126.jpg (http://s647.photobucket.com/user/ryangarage/media/20140728_215126.jpg.html)
Snap on 500psi pressure transducer
http://i647.photobucket.com/albums/uu199/ryangarage/20140728_215123.jpg (http://s647.photobucket.com/user/ryangarage/media/20140728_215123.jpg.html)
With these three tools I can check the general health quickly and easily.

Let me explain, with the use of the scope and the pressure transducer in cylinder one I can check the cranking psi of cylinder one, and with the amp clamp around the starter cable I can check the amperage draw to the starter as the engine turns.
As the engine turns and reaches a compression stroke the starter will draw more amperage. Now you can't see this with a standard meter you can't see this but this is how it appears on a scope
http://i647.photobucket.com/albums/uu199/ryangarage/crankingcompression.jpg (http://s647.photobucket.com/user/ryangarage/media/crankingcompression.jpg.html)
The yellow trace is cranking compression. You can see one single compression stroke on cylinder 1 is well over 100psi (this is pretty outstanding for a low compression ratio engine)
The green trace is amperage to the starter. You can see that ALL cylinders are relatively the same compression. (#1 is slightly lower because of the extra volume from the compression hose attached to the sensor) Also notice that cylinder 2 is slightly lower (higher than #1 but lower than 3 and 4). Not much but it is.
This engine runs smoothly and I'm not sure I am completely worried about this yet.

Next up, I re-installed the spark plug and let the engine idle.
I used a FLS (first look sensor) to take a look at the injectors. This type of sensor is used to see pulses. It is a pressure sensor but doesn't measure pressure, it measures differences in pressure. I attached this to the nipple on the fuel pressure regulator where the vacuum line would go.
http://i647.photobucket.com/albums/uu199/ryangarage/injectorspulse.jpg (http://s647.photobucket.com/user/ryangarage/media/injectorspulse.jpg.html)
You can see 4 distinct pulses. What these show is that when the fuel injector opens, pressure in the rail drops slightly and sends a pulse through the rail. This sensor is sensitive enough to feel the pulse and send a voltage signal to it. If we were to have a bad injector or one that is not flowing as much as the other we would see a difference in each pulse.

Next with the engine running, I attached the FLS sensor into the vacuum hose going into the intake manifold and a lead to #1 spark plug wire to know when it was firing. Again the FLS can see the pulse when the intake valves open and close
http://i647.photobucket.com/albums/uu199/ryangarage/FLSintakedraw.jpg (http://s647.photobucket.com/user/ryangarage/media/FLSintakedraw.jpg.html)
Again we see a discrepancy with cylinder #2 this time it is not pulling air as much as the rest. I may have to dig deeper into this, but this engine runs so good as is we will see how much time and money I have to go further with it.

Next up I need to take care of this oil leak http://i647.photobucket.com/albums/uu199/ryangarage/20140728_215158.jpg (http://s647.photobucket.com/user/ryangarage/media/20140728_215158.jpg.html)
Seems to be coming from the turbo drain to pan gasket, luckily there is another one with the boxes of spares I got. I just need to order up some amsoil so I can drain the oil and replace it.

[Goat Blower]

I don't know how many times I've replaced that gasket, it always leaks a little bit.

[Ryze]

yeah that's why i assume it came with spare gaskets and a extra 2g drain tube

[s1ngletracker]

oooh, so you're the one that bought Lafavor's car. He tried to get me to buy it for a long time but I'm not a fan of bolt-in cages.

Cool snap-on tools!