View Full Version : Building a motor, where to start?
4seasons69
06-27-2013, 11:43 AM
Or just buy my block hahaha
in all seriousness I would say have it checked so you know what size pistons to get.
I when my engine was built they had to line bore it for the girdle
Tachyon
06-27-2013, 11:47 AM
You bore the block to the pistons you buy, rather than buying pistons to the bore.
Decide what heat range you are building the motor for, buy .020 over pistons (if it's a true stock block), calculate your PWC based on the metal alloy expansion calculated from your intended heat range, then have Gosh bore to that spec.
Goat Blower
06-27-2013, 01:07 PM
Actually, you have to know if the block is .020" over already, so you do need to measure it, but you can do that yourself with a cheap caliper. Most aftermarket pistons for DSM's come in .020"(.5mm) or .040"(1mm) although I've heard of going up to .060" for that mythical 2.7L build from a decade ago. :D
turbotalon1g
06-27-2013, 02:11 PM
As far as I know its a stock motor, I thought that you check the cyl. bore then machine to whatever it needs then throw in pistons.
I'm gonna need some assistance on these one. In better news, it appears wiseco HDs are down a bit in price at 10.5:1 comp!!
Goat Blower
06-27-2013, 03:00 PM
If it's never been bored before, you order .020" over Wisecos, the honing is where the final cylinder wall to piston clearance comes in generally. I put those 10.5:1 HD's in my Evo, that car was a monster on the street. I wouldn't mind upping my compression on the GSX, but I'm having fun just driving around on good old pump.
turbotalon1g
06-27-2013, 03:57 PM
:scared:
4seasons69
06-27-2013, 04:02 PM
So New HD's retail for $520, but I found a set of .040" for $340 BNIB...
What's a girl to do?
I wouldn't go 0.040 over right off the bat unless you have to. If you have a engine failure that marks up the cylinder walls and you're already 0.040 your block will be junk. That's just my opinion though.
But that's a good price!
Yep, grab a caliper and check out what the bore is now, then go .020" over what it is. If it is stock then go .020" over. Not much work you can do to it besides collect parts since you aren't building it yourself.
goodhart
06-28-2013, 11:29 PM
Ok since I am in sort of the same situation here I'll add/ask something.
What benefits are there to doing a torque plate hone? I know its recommended when boring, but how bout on a hone on a stock bore motor? Or more specifically a stockish rebuild? (2g piston/1g rod motor) Is it really needed? Or would a normal machine hone or even just a bottle hone do the trick? I'm just looking to do things right the first time and be done with it. I am also looking to assemble it myself like brownman is.
It is not needed on a hone. The hone is not really taking much material off, just scuffing the walls up.
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