Rear 02 sensor for Evo X, ASAP!

[Trogdor]

You don't need any license or additional software beyond ATR (Access Tuner Race...basically Cobb's ECUFlash & EvoScan) which is a free download. The only thing that costs money is the AccessPort itself.

http://www.cobbtuning.com/Mitsubishi-AccessTUNER-Race-p/atr-mit.htm

So I could do this myself with my AP?

[Kracka]

Yes, as long as your AP tune is unlocked.

[Trogdor]

Plan B
http://www.maperformance.com/cnt-racing-cel-light-eliminator-celfix-cnt-celfix.html#.UPTDFSfAczI

I just looked, it's $275 for a new OEM one, lol. Fuck that noise!

[Murlo26]

You mean like this one :)

http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b252/Murlo26/0A5E3A11-9CB3-4723-A243-E0ADC03A3421-5038-000002DEEDF59FBF.jpg

That is in my kitchen...

I agree with others though, I'd delete it or better yet get a wideband in there and hooked up.

But if you really want this I could give you it for pretty cheap.

[Kracka]

Plan B
http://www.maperformance.com/cnt-racing-cel-light-eliminator-celfix-cnt-celfix.html#.UPTDFSfAczI

These don't work on the X's for the most part; they're generally effective only on older ECU's. Basically the same thing as a $5 spark plug non-fouler which many of us used to run on previous cars. Just delete it and never worry about it again. X's love to eat rear o2 sensors once modified. If you insist on keeping yours though you can get a generic brand instead of OEM, but plan to continually replace it.

[Trogdor]

Just want to see what all my options are.

A) Delete with AP
B) Buy Murlowski's (how much Dave?)
C) Replace a bunch of crappy off brand ones
D) Bend over for a new OEM one.

[Murlo26]

Just want to see what all my options are.

A) Delete with AP
B) Buy Murlowski's (how much Dave?)
C) Replace a bunch of crappy off brand ones
D) Bend over for a new OEM one.

I dunno, its a used one, so obviously not 175 or whatever the new one is. Since I don't care much I'd almost just give it to you but I am like having extra parts around just in case, so $30? The ends are cut, just an FYI, so you would have to solder it back in I think. Its been so long since I looked around that area of the car I don't even remember whats involved.

I still say just do the rear delete with AP, but if you really want it $30 seems reasonable I think, lol.