View Full Version : Serious Issue
viridionplague
05-08-2012, 10:24 AM
if you dont block off the ports from the fiav after rerouting your coolant lines. the bead inside the fiav wont heat up and plug the hole so you will always be allowing more air past the throttle blade than you want.
eventually heat will make its way to the intake manifold and then the throttle body to fix this but it will take a long time/
What is the difference?
Blockoff plate = block FIAV and IAV/ISC?
Bypass = block FIAV and retain IAV/ISC?
yea the block off plate replaces the lower half of the throttle body.
the bypass plate goes in between the 2 halves and still allows for ISC operation.
Yiddie
05-09-2012, 01:30 AM
Sooo what do I have to do to fix my problem. Just get a bypass plate?.
My issue im having is im leaking air really bad from the fiav/isc? the part attached underneath the throttle body and if I hook up the coolant lines to it now I get coolant inside my engine.( which never had this issue before till I took it apart ha go figure right...) I have a oem gasket arriving tomorrow that odd shaped one, I'm having doubts that it'll fix the problem. I've tried sealant twice now and still just leaking pretty bad. Was thinking of just getting a whole new throttle body setup...
viridionplague
05-09-2012, 01:42 AM
if the gasket doesnt seal it off i would guess that the Fiav portion of the lower half of the throttle body is damaged internally somehow.
also if your talking about rtv sealant your supposed to let it cure for 24 hours before use. so if you have done gasket sealer twice since this topic was posted i would guess thats why it didnt work.
either way the fiav portion of the throttle body is janky and old school plus prone to failure. after so many heat cycles the wax breaks down or the mechanism can fail inside.
i got the bypass plate myself and it solved a lot of my idle issues and boost leaks.
asshanson
05-09-2012, 01:50 AM
I would run the bypass plate and still retain the ISC if you are intent on removing the FIAV. I'm guessing a new gasket will fix it though, better than RTV.
Yiddie
05-09-2012, 01:53 AM
if the gasket doesnt seal it off i would guess that the Fiav portion of the lower half of the throttle body is damaged internally somehow.
also if your talking about rtv sealant your supposed to let it cure for 24 hours before use. so if you have done gasket sealer twice since this topic was posted i would guess thats why it didnt work.
either way the fiav portion of the throttle body is janky and old school plus prone to failure. after so many heat cycles the wax breaks down or the mechanism can fail inside.
i got the bypass plate myself and it solved a lot of my idle issues and boost leaks.
I waited over 24 hours. I'm kinda confused about this.. and before I look even dummer with asking more questions im gonna crash for the night lol
Halon
05-09-2012, 10:09 AM
Install the new gasket and see what happens. If that doesn't fix it, go buy a bypass plate to bypass the fiav, install it, loop the old coolant lines so that coolant is no longer being fed to your TB, done.
Yiddie
05-15-2012, 02:31 AM
:angryfire::angryfire::angryfire:
So I installed the new o-ring gasket. Got everything hooked back up...
When I first started it, the air/fuel was reading good(14's), but then the longer it ran and the more times you reved it the worse it got.. adjusted the tps a little bit and had it steady in the 13's. Took it out for a little cruise and it went to reading 10-12's super rich on my gauge.. In idle it's reading rich also.
It just doesn't seem right in general.I know my car and it's just not right at all..... I don't fucking know anymore, Just Irate about this.
CornFed2.4
05-15-2012, 08:59 AM
boost leak test
Yiddie
05-15-2012, 11:55 AM
boost leak test
I will today. But still doesn't explain why its running rich while cruising tho.
I'm gonna hook up a scan tool n see what my tps sensor is at, and see how my o2 sensor is reading.
For the tps sensor on a 2g suppose to be 5-10%? Or whats the exact number?
C3L1CA
05-15-2012, 12:07 PM
http://www.ecmtuning.com/wiki/dsmlinktpsadjustment
'The ECU wants to see 0.63v from the TPS sensor when your foot is off the throttle and greater than, say, 4.6v when you're fully on it. You can datalog TPSvolts to see what the ECU is really getting. The value at idle (foot off the throttle) is probably more important than the value at wide open throttle. A value that's too high at idle can prevent the idle switch from activating or it will prevent the “simulate idle switch” functionality from working properly.'
Hopefully somebody will correct me if that is wrong or doesn't apply if he isn't using link...
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