cant remove axel from hub.... need help!

[Matt D.]

well the offer stands.
Is the hub getting cocked to one side or another? did the sledge hit at an angle by accident and cause the hub to drive into the axel causing it to be stuck? I wouldnt think rust would cause this much fuss.

Also, im pretty sure you are doing this, But do you have someone pushing the hub out while you are slamming it with the sledge? If your just hammering it, its not doing anything but driving the axel into the transmission.
Huh? We aren't hitting the hub, we're hitting the axle. The knuckle was bolted to the car in all places, it was being held firmly.

Regardless, the axles are out of the transmission.

[tpunx99GSX]

Huh? We aren't hitting the hub, we're hitting the axle. The knuckle was bolted to the car in all places, it was being held firmly.

Regardless, the axles are out of the transmission.

i realise that. on dsms if you had everything unbolted and started smacking the axel on the end of it, (which the transmission side still in) all it would do is drill the axle into the tranny.
Again this was on a dsm, im not sure how evos look under there. have you taken the hub side boot off and axle out? so that all your hitting is the end of the axle? (btw those ends are surprizingly cheap to replace on dsms)

[Matt D.]

i realise that. on dsms if you had everything unbolted and started smacking the axel on the end of it, (which the transmission side still in) all it would do is drill the axle into the tranny.
Again this was on a dsm, im not sure how evos look under there. have you taken the hub side boot off and axle out? so that all your hitting is the end of the axle? (btw those ends are surprizingly cheap to replace on dsms)
Same difference, but it would still break it loose. We tried removing the knuckle from the strut and bracing the knuckle against the frame with no luck as well.

[blackrosenova400]

These scenarios happen on a daily basis working on semi trucks for a living. You DO NOT want to heat up the axle at all unless you want to shock it. The point of using heat is to expand the metal, so you want to heat up on side of the hub as fast as you can. If you heat up the axle your just expanding the axle even worse.

Now the whole problem wth heating up the hub is the axle is in the inner race of the bearing. When you heat up the hub, your heating up the hub and outer race of the bearing, when we want the inner race to expand faster than the axle. This just wont happen heating the outside of the hub.

#1. Heat up the inner race with an acetylene torch as fast as possible, one side only of the inner race if you can get to it, I cant see it to tell if you can. Do this this while you have pressure on the shaft, and it should pop.

#2. I dont know how evo hubs are put together, but maybe you can take the bearing out with the axle, especially since the bearing is possibly shot now that heat has been applied to it. What holds the bearing in? Is it pressed in? You could then heat up one side of the hub as fast as you can and pull the bearing out with the axle.



LOL, you better hope I'm there when you return it.

One thing you might try, I've used it with success on bolts, never on anything as big as an axle, would be to heat the axle and hub up a lot, then spray PB Blaster onto the axle, sometimes the quick change in temperature of one part and not the other is enough to break free some rust.

That's just crazy though, my Talon was never this bad.

[aaronspeed]

Lets face it with all the hitting on the axle the bearing is toast anyways. You will be replacing the bearing and the stub axle by now. Remove the complete assy and press the axle out. I work on these cars with 200k miles on them all day and it is the fastest method.

[TwoTalons]

Had that problem with a front DSM hub/axle. Took it to a machine shop. Put it on a huge press and couldn't budge it. Rust welded. Tossed it and got another one. Hope you have better luck.