Can't get the car to idle

[b00sted_spyder]

She fires up after I hit the throttle a few times but she won't stay idling if I let off the throttle. Through link, she needs about 5% idle to stay running. I set the idle to 1200 rpm since I have BC280 cams. I'm running the n/t throttle body with the FIAV/ISC delete. Would a leak around the 2g MAF cause it not to idle? I'm missing the oval clamp so it's kind of hanging on my 4" coupler by the turbo. What other things should I look at?

[Swifty1638]

might need to crack the throttle body a little bit just so the engine gets SOME air to idle..

[b00sted_spyder]

How high should I rev to? This is a new rebuilt engine and I've only idle it twice since I've started it.

[Matt D.]

If you have the FIAV deleted then the computer can't control what the idle is. It's up to you to adjust the throttle body so that it lets air through.

[95talonracer]

Why do people delete the FIAV/ISC and then bitch because their shit doesnt run like they want it to? Hook it back up its not taking away any power from you. I have 484whp and still have the coolant an all hooked up to my TB on my NT TB. Mine idles perfect and i can do a full pull to redline and let off the gas for the idle to go right to where it always does with no hesitation or stalling.

[Goat Blower]

Let out the BISS a little farther.

[Matt D.]

Let out the BISS a little farther.
Yeah, that. No idea why that skipped my brain.

[Goat Blower]

Yeah, that. No idea why that skipped my brain.

That's what I'm here for. :banana:

[CarPsyco84]

Yeah, removing the Idle motor will frustrate the hell out of you. I took out the coolant lines to the TB, and my car hasn't idled good since. No idle motor now its going to idle really low till warm, probably stall, then rev high once its warm. Good Luck.

[chilimap]

engines (http://www.mwdauto.com)
<b>Posted by truckquort</b>
The ones you ought to consider are the ester based ones - Fuchs Pro S, Redline, Motul 300V, Millers CFS or Gulf Competition. They last a lot longer than other oils on track and give better protection. Lee, Rock oil is a basic option and although it's cheap, it really isn't very good. You'd be better off using one of the ester oils and getting the full use out of it (roughly 10 solid hours of track use). Even if the Rock oil is changed every session, the ester oils will be giving better protection even after several hours of use.


A few of my vehicles have had leaking transfer cases and its a pain to find good used units. Any one got any suggestions other than junkyards?