Spec stage 3+ bites the dust

[FattyBoomBatty]

I bought their most expensive cluch for my car, but not the highest capacity one from MAP last spring sometime. It has been really nice to drive on, the pedal feel is lighter than stock for the most part, and it held up to 417-420 pounds of torque all summer. But it would not hold 460 pounds last night, and refused to try again. So I had to head home sadly. I was about to test and compare against some evo and a honda, lol.

I emailed spec and told them what happened, so I am looking forward to their response. I don't want to have to use a solid hub clutch, but their stage 5 is the only upgrade in capacity and it goes up to 610tq.

Derek did some quick math and 15% of the 525 tq rating would be about 450 at the wheels, so I'm over that by about 10 at this point. I would have thought it could go well above it's rated capacity. My ACT was rated at 330tq and held 390 at the wheels.

This brings up another question, which is how far do I want to chase this rabbit down the hole? There are better trannies out there, and this one is questionable as to how much more it would take before giving up the ghost, and possibly taking someone's leg with it.

[turbotalon1g]

T-56 that bitch.

I don't like SPec clutches, I just haven't heard anything really good about them that would make myself, a budget minded modder, want to take a chance on this clutch.

T-56 or dxd or some proven setup is my vote

[cudvig]

T56!!!

[FattyBoomBatty]

I love the clutch, it just didn't hold any more than it was rated to, and possibly a bit less. I would also love to get a T56 and a cobra or skyline rear subframe or something of this nature.

[Kevin 1G Drummer]

You should try to find a read subframe from a 240. They are easy to come by, pretty good suspension geometry, you can get every linkage for them in the aftermarket, and the R200 diff is good to about 750lb/ft

[FattyBoomBatty]

Well, no one has ever broken a starquest diff, but the halfshafts and driveshaft are easily overcome.

The rear subframe swap would probably be needed after I need to upgrade my rods. There's a guy who is telling me to drive to Vegas for the national meet, and if I do, he'll give me a deal on a full t56 swap kit he has sitting, gathering dust. I might have to do it.

After all, what's a couple thousand dollars spent while being broke ever done to hurt anyone?

[Goat Blower]

After all, what's a couple thousand dollars spent while being broke ever done to hurt anyone?

Spoken like a true democrat. :lol:

[FattyBoomBatty]

lol, I didn't think of it that way.

[FattyBoomBatty]

Well, good news, good news. I just got two replies. One from the guy with the t56 and what I'd need is to shorten my driveshaft and weld on the yoke provided with the kit. That and I'd need a clutch to bolt onto the flywheel. But tranny, flywheel, crossmember, etc. all for 1200 bucks. Smoking deal for sure.

The other reply was from David Norton at Spec Clutch saying:
Yes, the next step would be our additional clamp load upgrade (super clamp pressure plate). With the st3+ disc, the super clamp plate will provide another 100+ ft lbs load. $299 retail but since you have our it your cost would be $219.

So, I have a couple options here. 1200 is a heavy chunk of change for me right now, unless I could magically sell a bunch of stuff quick. 219 bucks for 100 more ft lbs capacity on the current clutch would be pretty sweet too.

[FattyBoomBatty]

I talked to another guy, Chad, at SPEC about what I should do, and he told me to take pictures of the clutch surfaces and measure the disc. So I did that, and sent 'em today. He replied instantly saying it looks like I over greased the input shaft (that's what she said). And based on the thickness of the disc, it's basically still brand new. Interestingly, he also said it looks like it wasn't even fully broken in.

I said, well what about my plans for more power? He said the clutches aren't rated at the ragged edge, and when there isn't any sign of grease causing it to slip, then maybe think about upgrading the PP. I told him the 470wtq number and he's like, oh yeah, that's 540 at the crank and the clutch is rated for 525. But he said it should be fine if I clean it up and throw it back together.

He said I need to be more aggressive with it. More clutch drops I guess.

We'll see I guess. I don't really want to take the tranny out again, but I will if I have to I suppose. Hope he's right.