Egt's/afc's

[Alpine TSi]

Now that I got the my Talon back and running I started putting my toys in. I finished up the SAFC and EGT yesterday and got some wierd things from them both.

First the EGT works great I just don't know what to do with the information it gives me. On the way home with it I would get right around 1400 degrees just on regular freeway traveling. When I got on it with about 18 psi it would go up to 1600 and drop back down after a few minutes of regular driving. So this is pretty much new to me and any info would be greatly appreciated. Such as what is a popular temp range to tune to.

Secondly, after I got the SAFC installed I noticed one thing. It all works great, but the RPM's are off(I think). They read about 650 at idle, and my tach in the car says 1400, now I am not sure what I might have done wrong, but I verified all my wiring(solder and taped all joints), and wiring path and it is all good. The throttle position works, and I am assumig the knock counter works too. Currently I have all the settings zeroed due to this so nothing gets affected. I have did the initial setup as stated in the manual and for a four cylinder engine. I just can't figure it out.

Lastly, I am going to be putting in my PLX Wideband kit shortly and would like to know what a recommened A/F to tune to would be.

Thanks in advance.

Applicable mods:
EVOIII 16G
650's
3" GM MAF with translator compensating for 650's at base and no other adjustments made
PTE FMIC with 2 1/2" piping with 1G bov vented before MAF in blow through
Whineboro 255
92 Octane

[1ViciousGSX]

1600 deg F is about as hot as you want to get. Anything hotter will start melting parts (pistons, valves). 1400 deg F is normal operating temp under cruise. I would think you could tell if you car was really idling at 1400rpm. Recheck your connections. The tach is probably reading incorrectly. You might just have to disconnect the afc to see if the tach problem goes away.

[Alpine TSi]

Update:

It appears that the RPM's on the SAFC are exactly half of what is on my Tach. What is this? I have the cylinders set right and the throttle position, I don't want to change the cylinder info in case of damaging anything.

[unreal808]

Dont use the info that came with the AFC for tach ref, use the VAFQ page. use the pinout for 1G. I think its "tach" pin 109, not the coil pin that the afc wants you to use. :goodluck:

[illz]

Originally posted by 1ViciousGSX@May 1 2004, 09:13 AM
1600 deg F is about as hot as you want to get. Anything hotter will start melting parts (pistons, valves). 1400 deg F is normal operating temp under cruise. I would think you could tell if you car was really idling at 1400rpm. Recheck your connections. The tach is probably reading incorrectly. You might just have to disconnect the afc to see if the tach problem goes away.
hotter than 1600f will not start melting parts. 1600f/900c is as hot as you should be seeing because any hotter indicates the ecu is pulling timing and more of the flame front is shooting through the manifold/less of the explosive energy is pushing the piston down and more is firing through the manifold. when you are at full throttle and EGTs are climbing to 800-850C then spike to 900c it's because the motor knocked, ecu pulled timing, and hotter shit fired past the probe.

for example, with dsmlink v2 and antilag, ill see 950-1000c+ EGTs while spooling the turbo at a stop with antilag retarding the timing. it's not melting shit, it's just firing flaming gas through the manifold and turbine.

[Alpine TSi]

Dont use the info that came with the AFC for tach ref, use the VAFQ page. use the pinout for 1G. I think its "tach" pin 109, not the coil pin that the afc wants you to use. 

Thanks man, I will be sure to give that a try tomorrow, hope it works.