Didn't bleed lifters - 90 cold compression new engine

[trunks11]

So I installed hks cams on the a new engine and was ignorant about bleeding lifters since the rre write up doesn't mention it. So I bleed them last night and waited until tonight to try again and still 90.

The car won't start from the low compression and cranking it by hand is pretty hard on the compression stroke with my 1/2 socket. So bent valves for sure? I'm going to verify timing is correct before pulling the damn thing apart.

Anything else it could be on an engine with 7 miles? I know it's low until the rings seal but this is way too low.

Argh... :angryfire::angryfire::angryfire:

[Goat Blower]

Who built the engine?

[Pushit2.0]

How are you doing the compression test? What brand compression tester? I would guess your cam timing or CAS is not right. I have had an engine run with 100psi compression.

~John

[blackawdtsi]

Yeah, brand of compression tester is key.

Also, doing a leakdown test will tell you right away.

[desolate]

90 is a little low, I had an engine rebuilt on 2g pistons that started at 140psi and went up to 180psi after 2k easy miles.

[trunks11]

I checked the timing belt last night and it was off a tooth on the crank. So I redid it and put some oil in the cylinders and compression started at 120 and after cranking a while went up to around 170 or so in all four.

So it tried to start it and it fired a couple of times and then wouldn't fire anymore. So I'm thinking fuel now. I assume the oil in the cylinders ignited a few times and that was it? Link gives me a -1 for the injectors which should mean they are firing so now I'm reading on how to check them physically. My afpr shows fuel pressure is okay. I also blew a 100 amp fuse on the battery after cranking a while so I'm not sure if that's related.

My cas is working since it will cycle the pump when I rotate it by hand. I've got a cheapo harbor freight compression tester but I don't think that's the issue now.

Thanks for the respones, I'm getting a little frustrated at this point.

[trunks11]

Okay after some research I looked a my fuel pump rewire and it was done incorrectly. So I fixed it and the plugs are definately seeing fuel. I've got spark, fuel and compression and still no starting.

I've read coolant temp sensor so I guess that's next. What's wierd is before I could turn on the fuel pump with link and now it doesn't turn on when I check the box. I can here it running when I crank though. I had miswired the relays with 30 the out put and 87 the hot wire input. I wonder if something could have gotten fried from that? My alternator relay is still hotter than hell with just the ignition turned on?

[trunks11]

So I messed with everything and it started up and purred beautifully for about 3 minutes 14.9 a/f then died. Since then it will only start occasionaly cold when I hit wot and run very rich only if I keep on the gas smoking pretty good. Let it die warm and that's it for the night.

I have changed or tried a different cts, cas, coil pack, power transistor. Link says cts is working, isc is trying to change the airflow, tps is .63. I'm told it's a maf issue possibly and my engine is flooding from too much fuel and flooring it stops the injection which enables it to start occasionally.

My gm maf is registering hz as well. It's about the only thing I haven't changed at this point but when I originally bought the car it had a 1g mas and did the exact same thing except would stay running. I thought it was because the headgasket was toasted but obviously not. WTF is the deal? Any ideas welcome - I'm going to trailer the bitch soon and take it in. I'm tired of driving my 15 mpg truck every day.

Oh - I got the engine off of VR4.org from darksideracing - IA.

Thanks for listening. Aaron

[trunks11]

Calling MAP tomorrow. I've fucking had it. Put new injectors and plugs in tonight and it won't fire. Floor it and it wants to start but doesn't make it. Fuel on plugs, spark and compression seem to all be there.

[jrohner]

If it is the MAF, just unplug it and it should run.