Clutch, Slave, Master Or Tranny?

[adidasdudegst]

Ok, So i have looked at many of threads now discussing this problem, and haven't really seen to many successes at the end of the thread, at finding out the cause of the issue and fix to the issue.

I have a 99 GST FWD. Just had the motor pulled, did the timing belt etc. Got a brand new RPS Max Pressure 2500lb clutch, with a fidanza flywheel. Brand new OEM fork, pivot ball, boot, throwout bearing and clip. I also just put in a slave cylinder extension rod, figuring that would fix the problem (figured it just wasn't disengaging all the way).

The issue is the tranny does not want to go into any gear hardly at all. It's almost as if it's not disengaging all the way. It will go into gear with force, and sometimes the clutch pedal has to be pushed down a few times. With the car running, if I sit and press on the pedal a few times fast it seems that a few of the times going into gear it will get easier, other times not. The slave cylinder was brand new at the end of last year. I plan on replacing the master, and properly adjusting it, but i'm trying to figure out if its worth taking the extra time to do that, or if I have to pull the whole dang tranny out again. When you do get it into gear, with the clutch pedal in/clutch disengaged, it will start creeping ahead, and other times like if I were to repeditively press the pedal in 5 times b4 shifting into gear, it will stay put for a little bit. I wouldn't think it would be the master cylinder, because when the clutch pedal is pressed in with the extension rod now installed, you can see the fork moving the full sweep.

Any ideas? this is just killing me after spending all this time on the car, and everything is finally back together, minor engine kinks are worked out, and now that it's able to roll, it doesnt want to to easily haha

[123abc]

You didn't mention bleeding the system, did you do that? You have to bleed both the master cylinder/line and the slave.

[twack]

do you have an extended rod? my rps needed a rediculously long rod.....that clutch is going in a dumpster tonight but thats another story

-side note how stiff is the clutch pedal? mine was ungodly stiff with the rps pressureplate and clutch

[LingLing]

I had the exact same problem when I swapped transmissions. I ended up having to shim the pivot ball with a few washers so the rod could fully disengage the clutch. Also make sure you don't have any air bubbles. It might take a bit to get all of them out but it's absolutely necessary to make sure they're all gone. You may also want to try adjusting your clutch when you get it to disengage just for some fine tuning.

FYI: I shimmed it so the bit of the clutch fork that sticks out of the transmission sits just to the right of center (If you're standing in front of the car).

[Wolf0573]

Assuming you have properly bled the system and checked for leaks...
vYJxQyjIhUw

[adidasdudegst]

Yeah the system has been bled numerous time, no air bubbles are coming out at all anymore. I'm going to try and adjust the master, and if that doesn't work, I guess I will be pulling the tranny :(

The new extended slave rod was quite a bit longer then the stock one. Sitting under the car you can see the clutch fork making it's full swing (as far as it can go), so im guessing that means the the pivot ball needs to be shimmed, or the clutch needs to be replaced with an ACT

[123abc]

Yeah the system has been bled numerous time, no air bubbles are coming out at all anymore. I'm going to try and adjust the master, and if that doesn't work, I guess I will be pulling the tranny :(

The new extended slave rod was quite a bit longer then the stock one. Sitting under the car you can see the clutch fork making it's full swing (as far as it can go), so im guessing that means the the pivot ball needs to be shimmed, or the clutch needs to be replaced with an ACT

What makes me think its not bled right is you said if you pump it up then you get it into gear. It sounds like a combination of the clutch adjustment and improper bleeding.

[adidasdudegst]

So, I adjusted the master this afternoon (according to the video), and noticed a good change, but then went out for a drive and after a little while it went back to being tough to shift. I guess I'm going to try and replace the master hopefully tomorrow. It would make more since to do everything possible, before having to take the trans off again. I'm going to do that, and of course rebleed the system.

Side note: The way I bleed it, is a buddy will sit in the car and pump it up, then hold the pedal down all the way to the floor. I then crack the bleeder, and then tighten it back up, and have him pump it up again. That is the right way isnt it?

[123abc]

So, I adjusted the master this afternoon (according to the video), and noticed a good change, but then went out for a drive and after a little while it went back to being tough to shift. I guess I'm going to try and replace the master hopefully tomorrow. It would make more since to do everything possible, before having to take the trans off again. I'm going to do that, and of course rebleed the system.

Side note: The way I bleed it, is a buddy will sit in the car and pump it up, then hold the pedal down all the way to the floor. I then crack the bleeder, and then tighten it back up, and have him pump it up again. That is the right way isnt it?

Yes, but make sure you tighten that bleeder screw before he lets off that pedal. He should have to pull the pedal up on his own.

Are you also bleeding the slave? Push the rod in with your hand as far as it allows, and crack the bleeder again, closing it before you let off the slave rod.

A quick way to check the master is to look under the dash at the boot and see if it's wet or looks like fluid leaking out.

[Kevin 1G Drummer]

Make sure the slave isn't leaking. I had to replace the slave in my old DSM last winter because it was leaking internally.