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View Full Version : Upgrading from NGK BPR9ES from BPR6ES.


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awd-drifter
01-08-2010, 01:37 PM
i've got the 7s right now.

Halon
01-08-2010, 02:59 PM
Or get a Dynatek Arc-2 CDI :banana:

I just got mine today, I will post a followup how well it runs.

Have they fixed their issues? The newer ones were sucking. I think I got a newer one because it didn't do squat. Mine ran the same with it plugged in or not.

s1ngletracker
01-08-2010, 04:31 PM
I'd run the hottest plug you can run without your car blowing the spark out or cutting out under boost, for the aforementioned reasons.

CarPsyco84
01-08-2010, 04:36 PM
I would check the gap of your current plugs first... it should be somewhere in the .026"-.030" range. I worked on a gst one time that someone had put the NA plugs in there gapped at .046" It ran fine till it started making boost, then it would buck and miss bad.

Chim55117
01-09-2010, 05:57 PM
I ended up going to NAPA and picking up a pair of NGK BPR7ES'. Thanks guys.

blackrosenova400
01-09-2010, 06:22 PM
No kidding? I installed mine, seemed to idle exactly the same as before. Air fuels being pig rich in the cold when first staring up. I havent driven it yet as I dont drive my car in the winter. This kinda sucks now that you say that, not im worried.

Have they fixed their issues? The newer ones were sucking. I think I got a newer one because it didn't do squat. Mine ran the same with it plugged in or not.

At-Least-It's-An-Evo
01-10-2010, 08:31 AM
ya, 9s are crappy unless you're a big baller big power car. I've had to get them before because 8's were out of stock and I had to keep doing pulls to clean 'em up every 20 miles or so... then finally just found some 8s to put in. This was on c16 also, so 7's are probably whats right for you.

Halon
01-10-2010, 11:24 AM
No kidding? I installed mine, seemed to idle exactly the same as before. Air fuels being pig rich in the cold when first staring up. I havent driven it yet as I dont drive my car in the winter. This kinda sucks now that you say that, not im worried.

Yeah, they seemed to be the best Ignition Amp that was still at an affordable price there for awhile, and then I got word that something must have changed because the newer ones were not performing well at all. I had to run such a small gap for the stock ignition to work (if I recall I had to go down to somewhere around .018 or .020). So I was hoping the Dynatek would allow me to get back to the stock gap, but nope. It was missfiring like crazy on DB's dyno. The next day I dropped the gap back down to like .020 and it was fine, and that was with the Dynatek. Bunch of crap.

blackrosenova400
01-10-2010, 01:27 PM
Well your post there scared me a little so I went and did my own test. I pulled the injector harness off of number 4 cylinder and then pulled the spark plug. I then attached the plug back onto the wire and grounded the plug, and stuck the plug in front of my windshield so I can watch.

Fired the car and the spark almost looked like a flame. So it looked pretty powerful. Well as it was running the spark plug slipped down the windshield and into the engine bay a bit, my ground clip fell off my plug and it started arcing against my hood! It must have been a good 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch and it looked just like those globe things you touch the outside of and the the arc moves towards your hand. It then kinda fell down below the intake, I tried to grab it carfully, well it gave me a couple of good shocks, lol. Im gonna have to say mines working :lol:

mdost03
01-10-2010, 01:33 PM
Try running non projected spark plugs, they help prevent pre-detonation as the ground electrode is shorter and is less likely to get hot and pre-ignite the fuel.

Id go with BR7ES's at .026 gap

This.

When I had my DSM, I ran that plug and it worked great to help with a little knock I was receiving.