1990 Eagle Talon TSi AWD [Archive] - Page 6

caffeinetripp

07-05-2010, 08:42 PM

I know this isn't much of a build for the time being, more of a replacement of shitty parts, but I got the ball joints done the other day, ran into a couple of problems.
the passenger side lower control arm has one huge rust hole in it, both front sway bar links are shit, and both of the LCA's bushings are cracked and worn pretty badly along with the driver's side axle spindle's threads being f'd which lead to die grinding and hoping that the castle nut will stay on, the passenger side boot is torn (not clicking yet though, thank god for quick boots).
Going to end up buying new LCAs through eBay, two for a bill and free shipping. Maybe swapping on some poly bushings (anyone use them for the LCAs?), replacing only the driver's side for now until I can scrounge up some money for the passenger side.
Pretty sure that the ball joints were factory. Well, definitely sure. I'll snag a picture just to show how shitty of condition they were in.
I also ordered in DME's kit, one more Eibach front camber adjustment, and OE rear camber bolts to get everything set in stone for alignment.
Bought some 17" 1999 Ford Mustang wheels wrapped in Continental ContiExtremeContact 245/45/ZR17s. They'll rub a tad so it leads to me learning how to roll fenders in the future. Only ran me $250 and there's still a decent amount of tread left on the tires which will definitely get me through winter. They're in pretty good condition as well, but I'll eventually paint them black, maybe with a small silver lip. I don't know if I'm going to be going with a gloss or a flat black, opinions?

caffeinetripp

11-15-2011, 05:43 PM

http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f225/CaffeineTripp/4G63T/DSMFront2.jpg

And there's the VR Speed Factory FMIC all done and ready. Sorry it took me so long to get a picture up, but there it is. Also, I didn't (shaaame) do a write up of everything. But for the most part, it's pretty self explanatory.

Cost: $325.00 Including Shipping (Did not purchase J-Pipe through VR Speed Factory)

Difficulty: 3/5

Time Required: 2 - 3 Hours

Tools Required: Basic hand tools, Dremel/Die Grinder, Drill with various bits, Tap and Die kit

Equipment: VR Speed Factory 1G Front Mount Intercooler kit (with or without J Pipe), gasket material, J Pipe gasket, BOV gasket, RTV, 36"-37" alternator belt.

Step 1: Remove Power Steering Cooler Lines (they run in front of the radiator).
http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f225/CaffeineTripp/4G63T/Lightweight_Kit.jpg

Step 2: Remove alternator belt and push alternator towards the firewall (now would also be a good time to clean up that rust corroded, oil and dirt filled alternator adjusting bolt).
Step 3: Remove headlights, grill (for us 1GA guys), sidemarkers, header panel bar (which runs from the hood release latch downward) front bumper cover, and crash beam (I don't have a crash beam, so that's negated :shock: )
Step 4: Remove OE intercooler piping, J Pipe, Throttle Body Elbow, and SMIC. There are three bolts on the SMIC; two are rather visible, the third is not.
Step 5: Position the intercooler at the front of the vehicle mocking up the location where you will have to cut the header panel. Using a permanent marker, stencil out where you need to cut using the Dremel/Die Grinder. It would be helpful to have a two friends hold the intercooler while you position it, but if need be, thighs do a good job of holding the intercooler.
Step 6: Cut out the parts of the header panel where you marked. The passenger side cold side piping coming off of the intercooler should point upwards more (thus having to cut out a different portion of the header panel) than the hot side intercooler pipe.
Step 7: Once the intercooler fits snugly through the holes that you have cut out (remove the coolant resevoir and position it aside), make sure the intercooler itself is level across, then mark holes on the left and right tabs (center tab too if you've got the header bar), and drill them out. I can't remember what size I drilled mine, but I know I didn't have a bit big enough so I had to tap the hole. In any case, it's easy to figure out if you've got the tap and die set, so have at it!
Step 8: Mount the intercooler to the crash bar mount.
Step 9: Remove the throttle body from the intake manifold as now would be an excellent time to clean it out. Make Throttle Body gaskets and use RTV to ensure a complete seal. Using the bolts and stud provided, mount the throttle body back in it's original position, attach the VRSF Throttle Body Elbow (may not clear for you ABS guys). Bolt everything together.
Step 10: Fab up the intercooler piping so you know what position it has to be in for future reference as the curved silicone couplers can be a pain in the ass to twist once connected to the intercooler.
Step 11: If your J Pipe didn't have a boost source welded onto it for your MBC, like mine, just bring it to your local weld shop and have them put one on. Shouldn't cost much. Or, you can do what I did, tap and die the J Pipe and toss in a bleeder valve (or something to that effect) don't forget to put threadlock on the threads.
Step 12: After everything is done and fabbed up to fit snugly, begin tightening all of the T-Bolt clamps.
Step 13: Put the BOV, intake pipe, and reconnect any connections that may have been removed along with vacuum lines.
Step 14: Put on the new alternator belt. It will be hard to get over the alternator pulley (but if you've got an underdriven alternator pulley, it'll be easier).
Step 15: Double check all of the T-Bolt clamps, connections to the Throttle Body and MAF, vacuum lines, etc. Wait approximately half an hour for everything to dry (if you used the RTV and the threadlock).

The Gain: Besides the obvious of having a better performing vehicle by keeping the intake temperatures down, and better flow throughout the intake system, you get a great looking front end, a very audible turbo spool, and a happy vehicle.

Suggestions: I'd highly recommend purchasing the VRSF J Pipe as well. No, it doesn't come with an MBC boost source, but that can be easily remedied by doing what I did or bringing the J Pipe to a body/auto shop to get a nipple welded on. It will keep the entire kit looking clean instead of having a mismatched part.
I wasn't too happy with the build quality, but the kit is a major step up from OE SMIC and rubber piping (minus the DeJon Tool UICP); there were aluminum chunks left on the interior of the UICP, the stability of the FMIC mounting flanges on the left and right do not seem strong, though the FMIC is light, they are quite bendable by hand, even so, I believe they'll do fine. Can always make a mount for the bottom part of the FMIC.
The Throttle Body Elbow was welded in an incorrect position, as per the OE throttle body mount. Still fit just fine though, just a little goofy looking.
Overall though, this kit is worth the money. Definitely worth the money. The guys at VRSF are very prompt in letting you know what's going on and answering any questions that you may have. The shipping company who VRSF was going through lost all of the FMIC kits. So they refunded us all shipping charges for it taking so long. No big deal. I also got an extra set of T Bolt clamps as well (8 used, 8 left over, 16 total).