255 walbro Fuel Pump Install

[adidasdudegst]

Ok, so I did some searching, and didn't exactly find what I needed... So when I have the car under accelerating boost around 13-16 psi on the stock turbo, sometimes the car lurches and backfires... I am under assumption, that is because I have the stock fuel pump still... I am correct?

So, if I were to install a new walbro 255 fuel pump, would I have to get a pressure regulator as well, or will the fuel pump just be able to be dropped in?

[GsXtUrBo98]

You dont need a fpr.. Also, It depends on your setup. We need to know what your running because it sounds like your hitting fuel cut.

[Kevin 1G Drummer]

We need to know more about your setup. What year is it? Do you have any mods? Have you done a boost leak test recently?

[slowbubblecar]

Installing a pump won't fix that problem for sure. The AFPR isn't needed but it I would recommend getting one. They aren't that expensive anyhow.

^ What is a boost leak test :) ?

[adidasdudegst]

No boost leaks, I have done a test, and have 22vac. I have a 1999 GS-T @ 103,000 miles. Here's the list of mods:

- Full 3" Turboback exhaust (Megan Racing Downpipe to Thermal R&D Catback)
- K&N Filter with intake pipe
- 2.5" UICP with NGR Type S BOV
- Godspeed FMIC with 2.5" piping
- NGK BPR6ES gapped @ .29-.3
- Hallman Pro Manual Boost Control
- Stock Turbo
- Stock Fuel Pump

Thanks for the help!

[Forced Fed]

It sounds like fuel cut to me, but there are easy ways to start eliminating things. I would first start with putting the boost back to stock, especially if you don't have a way of compensating for extra fuel / boost. Do you have a chip, S-AFC, or larger injectors by chance?

If you are still experiencing this problem after going back to stock boost, it wouldn't hurt to through in some new BPR7ES plugs since they are so damn cheap and gap them at .24. If you drive during the winter BPR6ES would work just fine as well. I personally used to change my plugs every 5k miles or 3 months, whatever came first.

Also grab your self some new plug wires while you are at it, best options would be MSD 8.5mm or Taylor 10.2mm wires. Put some petroleum jelly in the boots of the plug wires for optimum performance, this can be found at any local parts store for cheap in little packets, you only need one.

[adidasdudegst]

Yeah, when the boost is put lower to around 11-14psi, there is no problems, so that's why I was thinking that it was hitting fuel cut, and getting a new fuel pump would help solve the problem.

I just changed the plugs, and am getting new wires soon. However I don't think that's the issue. I could be wrong but.. it honestly seems like fuel cut...

So I am trying to figure out, if I purchase a Walbro 255 fuel pump, would I be able to install it without getting a fuel pressure regulator?

Thanks

[Kevin 1G Drummer]

How is installing a fuel pump going to combat fuel cut? Some people have gotten away with a 255 on a stock regulator, but I wasn't one of them. I blew out the diaphragm in two stock regulators before I got an Aeromotive regulator.

[slowbubblecar]

If I were you, I would drop the boost until I have the supporing mods and ability to tune it. I would install some bigger injectors, a bigger pump (depending on what turbo you plan on upgrading to) and install a AFPR. I would also buy a dsmlink setup so it is tuneable. I wouldn't be messing withe boost levels or guessing what a safe tune is without being able to tune it. The first thing you should do is go to dsmlink.

[niterydr]

Fuel cut is a ECU limit to the airflow. It is a factory setup failsafe that stops the vehicle from continuing to boost, incase of a wastegate failure. Adding a fuel pump would not fix the ecu mass flow limit as you aren't changing the airflow number. The higher boost is causing you to hit it. Stick to 14psi to be safe.
Next round of mods for you:
-fuel pump
-possible injectors
-fuel controller/tuning device
-tune or a way to monitor a/f ratio
-the stock plugs are fine now, go a stage colder once you get the fueling mods situated.