Brake Pad / Calipers

[Jana]

I am going to be needing new brakes and possibly calipers. How do I know what is needed (what do I check/look for)?

Also, for the 2G's, what is recommend for a decent set? I don't have a shitload of money to spend, so something in a reasonable range.

[Matt D.]

Just curious but why do you think you need calipers? If anything you'll just want to rebuild them which won't cost much.

Since you aren't going to be doing any track action I'd stick with something close to OEM like what you'd find at any auto parts store. If you want a little more stopping power you could upgrade to something like Powerslot rotors and Axxis Metal Master pads.

If you want a complete set of rotors, pads and SS brake lines check this out: http://www.turboimport.com/catalog/promo.htm
These are what I picked up.

[Jana]

See, I don't know if I need calipers or not...they look kinda rusty....but I am completely dumb when it comes to the brakes, etc.

[Iceman]

Originally posted by DSMChick@Apr 1 2004, 09:27 PM
See, I don't know if I need calipers or not...they look kinda rusty....but I am completely dumb when it comes to the brakes, etc.
I really dout you need new calipers. Just get some brake pads and call it a day.

[Matt D.]

They're rusty because they're cast iron and unpainted. If you want you can get them sandblasted and painted which will help prevent them from rusting, and make your car look better. If they aren't leaking or sticking they're fine.

Just get pads and rotors that will suit your needs.

[A//// Guy]

Your brakes should be fine. Just swap out pads. You should never have to replace the entire unit unless someone is unable to rebuild them due to a corroded marked up piston or cylinder, Or are to lazy to rebuild them. haha

Yes cast Iron rusts.

[Goat Blower]

We're all forgetting that you need to either resurface the rotors or buy new ones when putting on new pads. If you just slap a set of pads on, they will wear out in half the time since they weren't allowed to "bed in" with the rotors. Resurfacing or "turning" the rotors should be $15-$20 each at auto parts stores that do that, or new rotors are probably about $30 each if you shop around.

I'm sure your calipers are just fine, severely abnormal wear on the pads would tell you if there's a problem with them.

[Kracka]

I would just get new rotors instead of turning them (turning the rotor takes material away therefore they will warp quicker and won't be able to dissapate heat as well). Autozone seems to have the cheapest prices on brake rotors as far as I can tell...but if you are going to get some decent pads you might as well get some decent rotors to go along with that. Summit sells Qualitee rotors which are actually made by Brembo and they are a good quality solid rotor. You could also just go with the ones from Mitsu. The OEM auto part store rotors will warp a lot quicker than the higher quality ones will.

[A//// Guy]

Depends how much they are actualy worn. They only take off as much is needed. Ive turned my rotors two years ago in the front and 3 years ago in the back and they are no signs of warpage yet.

Stock rotors arent the greatest but they are better then anything from checker or autozone. If your going to upgrade might as well get powerslots.

[illz]

Originally posted by Goat Blower@Apr 1 2004, 10:26 PM
We're all forgetting that you need to either resurface the rotors or buy new ones when putting on new pads. If you just slap a set of pads on, they will wear out in half the time since they weren't allowed to "bed in" with the rotors. Resurfacing or "turning" the rotors should be $15-$20 each at auto parts stores that do that, or new rotors are probably about $30 each if you shop around.

I'm sure your calipers are just fine, severely abnormal wear on the pads would tell you if there's a problem with them.
eh, what's your logic behind this one? no magic happens that mates the pad and rotor. if the rotor is still flat, unwarped, and the pads are the same size as what was on, you bed in the pads and are fine. hell, even that isn't terribly necessary, but to do it you just bring them up to high temp a few times -- 8-10 60mph to 5mph back-to-back-to-back-to-back stops (never stop completely just get right back up to speed) then drive around and let them cool, repeat with another series of 8-10, done. if you're using a high-temp race pad like a porterfield R4-E , do the same, but make them 100mph to 5mph stops