viridionplague's project

[viridionplague]

ok so here are a bunch of pictures cause everyone likes pictures, i didnt get any of the whole car as its coated in salt and it got dark out though.

http://i596.photobucket.com/albums/tt48/viridionplague/0041.jpg
http://i596.photobucket.com/albums/tt48/viridionplague/005.jpg
http://i596.photobucket.com/albums/tt48/viridionplague/006.jpg
http://i596.photobucket.com/albums/tt48/viridionplague/007.jpg
http://i596.photobucket.com/albums/tt48/viridionplague/0031.jpg
http://i596.photobucket.com/albums/tt48/viridionplague/0021.jpg
http://i596.photobucket.com/albums/tt48/viridionplague/0011.jpg

as for the kit, i had to cut alot more than the standard radiator support spots in order to get this thing to work. i had to cut all but 1 pipe i got in the kit to make it fit right, and it wasnt because i used the wrong stuff in the wrong spots, i test fitted everything in just about every way possible. i probably got a good foot of aluminum pipe chunks.

as well as having to drill out the supports to get the supplied bolts though.

over all though for the price of 410 shipped it still isnt super bad as it saves to time of welding the j-pipe and the throttle body elbow.


as you can see in the pics ive got my maft setup right on the throttle body elbow and the bov right before that. it works out pretty well.


now for the bad though, the j-pipe dosent have a nipple yet, so untill i go get one welded in had to splice into the bov line.

i dont exactly know what the second nipple on the bov is for as the kit comes with no instructions at all.

due to haveing to cut all the pipes most of them done have the ribs to hold the couplers on.

the first time out with the car, the wastegate actuater was not hooked up properly, luckily i preped for this by looking at the boost guage the whole time and i shifter at about 13 psi. after that the car slowly builds boost and dosent realy want to go past 7 psi.

and for all those who laughed at me before because part of the reason i bought the fmic kit was to solve a fuel cut issue, well i dont have fuel cut anymore.

anywas, as far as i can tell everything is hooked up and bolted down correctly, i dont know what the second nip on the bov is for so i just blocked it off after trying a few things to fix the boosting problem to no avail.

if anyone has any suggestions on what this might be, any help is appreciated

[Swifty1638]

Cut alot out? ya..now imagine doing it to fit 3-3.5" piping!


It looks to me like the other nipple on the BOV is another spot to get your vac signal from..ones above the diaphram, the other is below. works well for EBC's i believe. you should be fine with it as is.

adding a FMIC won't fix any fuel cut issues..air to the motor is air to the motor. However if you moved the maft any bit, or have no more boost leaks cuz it is all properly installed, that could help ;)

-A. Swift

[viridionplague]

i actualy did not have any boost leaks on the old setup, im pretty sure the only thing that fixed it was moving the maft from a pull through to a blow through setup fixed my specific problem

[viridionplague]

ok so i was wrong fuel cut has not been fixed, turn out i just blew a hose off, but it still went to redline.

so i got evertyhing back on she boosts fine, but im still getting fuel cut at 4500 rpm, no boost leaks of any kind.

ive been trying to figure this out for a while now, could it just be a bad map sensor?
or do i need to replace the whole unit

[mdost03]

The lower BOV nipple is for an all-boost source to release boost pressure faster than just the vac nipple on the top. Leave it open if you aren't using it.

I would just get an NPT nipple from Home Depot and drill a hole in your j-pipe and screw the nipple in by force. That is what I, and a few people I know, have done to get a boost source. If you are worried about leaks, maybe put a little jb weld on it to seal it up better.

[4g63tcrazy]

1g's don't have map sensors. Did you spray soapy water on everything and pressurize the system?

[viridionplague]

ok so before i decided go go replace my gm 3bar map sensor i pulled the ecu, on a good note, all caps are good, and its an eprom, on a bad note, one of the memery chips burst.

anyone got a 1g ecu, suck

[Halon]

What chip is burnt out on it?

I have a spare 1G EPROM ECU. I think it has a Keydiver chip in it though, so you might need to swap in your stock chip. I'm not really looking to sell it because I like to have a backup, but if the one you have isn't in horrible shape I'd be willing to trade you for your bad one plus say $100 cash?

[viridionplague]

pm sent halon

[Halon]

The chip that blew up in your ECU was one of the ones used to drive your ISC. It shouldn't affect anything else other then that, unless it's "guts" damaged some other circuits (specifically IC104 which is part of your MAF circuit)

Whether you buy a new ECU, or get this one repaired, you need to either replace your ISC with a good one, or leave it unplugged, or else your next ECU will burn up that same chip instantly.