View Full Version : HID retrofit discussion
mx3twinturbo
12-03-2008, 01:15 AM
Do you mean Headlight Housing? or is this for a flip up headlight?
blageo23
12-03-2008, 12:54 PM
So HID will NOT cause a fire. They run cooler and they draw less current.
If the wires for the stock headlights can handle the 55W halogen bulbs they will beable to handle the 35W HID bulbs with ease.
So if you purchase a plug and play HID kit then there should be no worries.
But throw in some crappy wiring job by a hack with a non plug and play HID kit and flames away.
In Jareds case, who knows what happend, Maybe it was not made for his car and he wired it up wrong.
mdost03
12-03-2008, 02:31 PM
So HID will NOT cause a fire. They run cooler and they draw less current.
If the wires for the stock headlights can handle the 55W halogen bulbs they will beable to handle the 35W HID bulbs with ease.
So if you purchase a plug and play HID kit then there should be no worries.
But throw in some crappy wiring job by a hack with a non plug and play HID kit and flames away.
In Jareds case, who knows what happend, Maybe it was not made for his car and he wired it up wrong.
I disagree.
When you go to ignite the HID bulb, the current can double or even triple the amount needed compared to when it's completely on. This load can, over time, melt the wiring jacket around the stock wiring. This happens so fast that it will not blow the fuse. That is why you should install larger gauge wiring hooked up the battery and use a relay to tap into the existing wiring for the headlights.
munchgsx
12-03-2008, 04:54 PM
Do you mean Headlight Housing? or is this for a flip up headlight?
Housing, B body.
mx3twinturbo
12-03-2008, 05:24 PM
I have heard good things about the Ebay light housings, Projector and non projector units, ask sleepydsm, he has a set,
clean2g
12-03-2008, 05:33 PM
I disagree.
When you go to ignite the HID bulb, the current can double or even triple the amount needed compared to when it's completely on. This load can, over time, melt the wiring jacket around the stock wiring. This happens so fast that it will not blow the fuse. That is why you should install larger gauge wiring hooked up the battery and use a relay to tap into the existing wiring for the headlights.
I concur. I purchased a solid plug and play kit from the guy that sells on the NSX forums (the name of the company slips my mind at the moment), and the instructions specifically say that the ballasts require more current, especially during initial ignition. The wiring harness was well built with thick and insulated wires, and they specifically say to wire the ground and positive straight to the battery because they need a clean and strong connection. I thought about purchasing the cheaper kits, but I'm glad I spent a little more to get something with legitimate quality. So far I'm happy, and nothing has melted in my stock housing so far. I think the heat problems have a lot to do with how well the kit is made as others have stated.
mx3twinturbo
12-03-2008, 05:53 PM
I will post up a spec sheet on our product,
1 cold starting electricity 6.5-7.0A
2 stable electricity 3.5A/12V
3 hot starting electricity 3.6A/12V
4 stable power 35W
5 open circuit protection automatic protection in 1s
6 short circuit protection automatic protection in10s
7 over voltage protection automatic stop working reaching18v
8 low voltage protection automatic stop working reaching 8v
9 lighting test no ignition in 23kv anywhere
10 flashing test turn on and off in every second ,every time the bulbs can
11 aging test work continuously 24 hours normally
12 ignition test normal
13 high temperature test work normally reaching 105 centigrade
14 low temperature test work normally reaching minus 40 centigrade
15 waterproof dustproof test immerged in water for 12 hours,
16 anti-vibration test good
17 salt fog test good
18 anti-electromagnetism test meet regulation requirement
19 ignition voltage 23kv 20KV-23KV
20 time to stable in cold starting process 4s
21 isolation function ≥300megohm the power is isolated to outer shell≥300 megohm
if you need an explanation please ask.
Thanks,
Jesse
mike55112
12-03-2008, 09:29 PM
Are the fire related issues more to do with the housing the bulbs are put into, versus the bulbs/kits themselves? I see a lot of aftermarket headlights that say "NOT FOR HID." A friend's 2002 3 series BMW burnt to the ground with aftermarket headlights and HIDs.
His actual car!
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2183/1623358150_16346704bf.jpg?v=0
I remember this, but did jared ever say for sure it the fire started from the HID's in his aftermarket projectors? Did his car get inspected at all after this.
SnoEclipse
12-03-2008, 09:34 PM
I can easily see a sloppy wiring job that isn't tied down vibrating and rubbing and eventually shorting out.
mx3twinturbo
12-03-2008, 09:41 PM
I remember this, but did jared ever say for sure it the fire started from the HID's in his aftermarket projectors? Did his car get inspected at all after this.
I tried talking to him about it, around then,
but he really didn't have a great explanation of what happend.
though if I had done a shoddy wiring job and burned down my BMW, I don't think I would have admitted it either.
-Jesse
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