Rattle...

[iceminion]

You do not need to take the trans off to inspect the clutch! lol!

if you take the flexible boot off the clutch fork area you can have a look at pretty much everything by turning the engine over.

Your other option is to get some dyno time, and drive the car until it makes some noise, and have someone feel around until the offending part is found!

moar ¢2, so thats ¢4 now

[tpunx99GSX]

You do not need to take the trans off to inspect the clutch! lol!

if you take the flexible boot off the clutch fork area you can have a look at pretty much everything by turning the engine over.

Your other option is to get some dyno time, and drive the car until it makes some noise, and have someone feel around until the offending part is found!

moar ¢2, so thats ¢4 now

Already looked through the glory hole. Didnt really see anything out of place. The pressure plate looked very clean, no dusting or anything.
Dont really need dyno time as it does the rattle at idle after the car has been driven a bit to warm up. Free Rev and hear the tick more. It sounds like a loud version of lifter tick is i suppose the best way i can describe. Also the engine doesnt vibrate all that much. Just normal, also idle is very normal. Really the only problem is after it warms up the loud ticking and not being able to go above 3k rpms without it registering knock.

[tpunx99GSX]

So today on my way to work i logged driving using DSMlink just to see what was happening at 3000 rpm when the CEL comes on (for knock.) In the log the boostest was not even 1psi and knock shot up to 12.7 degrees, and timing dropped to 5*.
Does this sound like knock that would be caused by a noise?
Im pulling the transmission over the long break to see if maybe there is a loose flywheel bolt or something rattling around in the clutch. But to me it would seem that the knock should not shoot up like that over a rattle.

[carltalon]

An audible rattle will cause Knock. I'd inspect stuff before you do any more damage.

[TkrPerformance]

Craigs old talon did the same thing on the dyno at db and in the end it was rod knock on 2 and 3

[tpunx99GSX]

Got the tranny off. Looks like my 6-puck clutch disk was pretty worn. On the kevlar side it was going into the rivet on one of the pucks. So im going to call southbend tomorrow (hopefully they are open) and order a new disk.
Should i a) Order a new 6 puck clutch disk from southbend or B) Go with another brand of clutch altogether.
What brand would be the best bang for the buck? Im not looking to go multi disk just yet (likely do that when i get to MN but dont have the money for one yet.) I dont think i would mind a solid hub, Im looking to lay down as much of my power to the ground, and the southbend i found to be great when i first had it but after a while i noticed it was slipping. So I think solid hub would be best.

[asshanson]

Why not a Mitsu disc?

[tpunx99GSX]

im ordering a new act 2900 with the 6 puck sprung disk tonght from MAP.

[asshanson]

Why the 6 puck? How much power do you make?

[Kracka]

Look at Competition brand clutches instead; much better quality and drivability with plenty of torque capacity. Stick with a sprung hub for a street car though.