MY DSM and racing (all types). Please look!!

[turbotalon1g]

Ok, everyone knows that my dsm is a 16G powered fiend that i have been straight line racing for a while, well i feel that the end is near and.
All these years i have been wanting to do auto-x and road racing too.

My question is about setups for each perspective racing types, i want this in order to create a perfect setup for me.

I have been pondering going to a turbo the size of a 35r as far as power goes, but i love the response of the 16g, so until i am sick of it the 16g is staying.

The car currently has AGXs and sportline springs, no strut bars, no upgraded rear sway bar.
Full weight.
235/45/17 pirelli P6s (some all season tire)
Brakes are 1G upgraded aka 2 piston, with drilled & slotted and i believe EBC red pads, brakes are about 50%.

My goal with the car is to have the best street car i can that will allow me to do whatever i want to do with it, whether that is take cross country trips, road race, drag race, street race, auto-x, whatever.
The main thing is that i want the CAR to be good at it.

Plans: i have a SS brake line kit & Alamo rear sway bar to install, i plan on doing K-sports or Megan coilovers this winter and hopefully solid strut tower bars if i can find them, i have heard these are the best kinds to get, but i don't think anyone sells them.
Grant steering wheel and i am keeping PS.

I don't know what my goal is in the 1/4, i just know that i have trapped 120 and that my time of 11.7 shows that i can go quicker at that speed.

Thanks for your time

Aaron

[scheides]

I love it. How about some bear big brakes? Not too spendy for just the fronts and they do the work! Or perhaps a brembo conversion off of an evo? :D

Other than that your plans are on the right path, if you decide you want a little bump in power go up to a 20G but honestly rollin on the 16g is a great all-around and uber-reliable way to go. Cams if you don't already got them!

[Kracka]

Baer Track Kit brakes are great, I had them on my 1G. Good summer tires are also important. A new rear anti-sway bar is also a great idea as are the strut tower braces. Don't worry about brand, get some decent adjustable ones on eBay and you'll be set. Another tip is to install the strut bars with the suspension unloaded (i.e. car on jacks) and adjust the bars so they push outwards until they are tight. Stick with the 16G turbo, that is a great all-around street turbo on a DSM.

[JET]

The rear sway bar will make a major difference, strut bars help a bit. I would stick with the 2 piston brakes, they are pretty good. The biggest thing i would look at is dumping some weight. That will help you in all aspects. There are quite a few things you can get rid of that you will never even notice.

[asshanson]

Care to elaborate on the unnoticed weight reductions? Other than obvious things like removing spare. I think mine is around 3300 with me, I would like to get it down more. Sorry for the thread jack, but I guess it's still relevant.

[Kracka]

Bumper supports make a huge difference since that is weight having over the wheels. Get some nice aluminum brackets to take their place.

[Matt D.]

I say stick with the 16G, or maybe something slightly larger to get more power, but that's about all I'd consider doing in your shoes.

Do all the suspension upgrades you want, but you forgot the most important thing from your list: TIRES. For the best performing street tire look at the Falken Azenis RT615 or Dunlop Direzza Z1 (not DZ101, do not make that mistake.) They are usually around $150 a tire but are used in street tire racing classes for a reason. For a less aggressive tire (harder, will last slightly longer but will have less grip) talk to Hughes and Scheides and see what they recommend.

I run the Dunlop Z1 all summer and have no complaints. I will be getting either them or the RT615 next depending on what sizes are available.

[turbotalon1g]

Thanks guys, i have cams right now good 'ole HKS 264/272 (oh the torque!!)

I will be picking up some megan strut tower bars i like the look of them.
I currently have an aluminum bumper up front, but i think i will be making some custom supports because its scary to drive on the street.

A lot of people have been telling me that the two pot brakes are good but i can say stopping from 110+ doesn't feel that great i mean it could be with any car, but i know that i would like a bit more authority/power when it comes to stopping, i am gonna take it step by step, do the lines, drain the fluid and see how it goes.

Kracka, i have heard about this installing the twoer bar in the air, from what i saw people said put it in the air, then snug down the outside bolts, then lower and install the inside bolts as it will help exert an outward force on teh car.

JET, stop by sometime and feel free to point out some things i could lose, but to be honest while i understand weight loss is a good/big part of it, i really want a complete street car and right now i don't see what else i can do.

[turbotalon1g]

I say stick with the 16G, or maybe something slightly larger to get more power, but that's about all I'd consider doing in your shoes.

Do all the suspension upgrades you want, but you forgot the most important thing from your list: TIRES. For the best performing street tire look at the Falken Azenis RT615 or Dunlop Direzza Z1 (not DZ101, do not make that mistake.) They are usually around $150 a tire but are used in street tire racing classes for a reason. For a less aggressive tire (harder, will last slightly longer but will have less grip) talk to Hughes and Scheides and see what they recommend.

I run the Dunlop Z1 all summer and have no complaints. I will be getting either them or the RT615 next depending on what sizes are available.


Thanks, i know that i need to run a real tire, its seems like everytime i need to buy them i am in a squeeze for money and i find a really good deal, mine are practically new for $60 for 4.
i was looking at the dunlops before though, i hope next time i will get a real tire.
I will be sticking with the 16G for the next year unless something happens to it, i still have a huge boost leak at the TB that leaks at 10psi like crazy (on a boost leak test) so i think that i will feel a diff. once that is fixed. Hopefully i will have it done this weekend.

OH, about strut tower bars, there are some that are U-shaped (have 3 holes) and some that are a quarter-circle(have 2 hole) on the brackets that bolt to the shock tower, is there a better one to have?
I would think the 3 hole would be better because it attaches to the car in more places.

[scheides]

MattD brings up a great point. For the most performance, tires are hands down the BEST bang for your buck you can get. I decided to go for a little harder tire that will last longer (I commute 50 miles/day) and went with Bridgestone RE750's. They are an amazing all-around summer tire, and I can drive them Early spring to late fall with no issues, and I have two full seasons out of them now. Just what I wanted.

Hughes went with the sumitomo HTRZIII this spring, I gotta say they are prolly gonna be my next tire. Way cheaper than the RE750's, a tad softer/grippier, but still in the hardness category I want for longevity.

So ya, keep tires at the top of your list. All too often I see 400whp DSM's running around with massive bulges in their tires or bald-ass dried up crap. Keep your rubber happy!