Clutch hydraulic system

[iceminion]

Ok, this is on my 91GVR4.

Freshly rebuilt trans from TRE.

New Fidenza aluminum flywheel.

Competition clutch Stage 4 using included TOB.

Shimmed the fork, would not be comfortable shimming it any further.

visually inspected the fork, seems fine, never seen a bent one...not quite sure what to look for.

blead the system quite a bit, pretty sure this is not the problem

Clutch release point is 1" off the carpet.

I replaced the master cylinder with a new DSM master cylinder.

the only other question in the system is the slave cylinder, so I am just going to replace it, see what happens.

Slave cylinder sizes:
Stock GVR4 - 7/8"s (Big)
AWD DSM - 13/16"s (medium)
FWD DSM - 3/4"s (small)

I am leaning toward getting the FWD slave cylinder.
Reasoning - Smaller space to fill, more travel, better release point!

Why are the extended clutch rods so popular if they are not needed?
Right on TRE's website, he says "DO NOT USE THE EXTENDED ROD"

When I installed the master cylinder, I was very critical of the clutch pedal assy. I made absolutely sure that there was absolutely no play compared to the pedal and the master cylinder.

Help? please?

[Kracka]

Use the slave cylinder you are supposed to use (GVR4). If the clutch system is bled properly there is no "space to fill" since it is already full of hydraulic fluid with does not compress (hence why the clutch fork moves). What problem are you trying to fix? Do you not like the clutch engaging 1" off the floor? Depending on how heavy the PP is that may be the best you can get. The extended rod, like shimming the ball, is a band-aid that temporarily solves an existing problem. Ideally, you should have replaced both the ball and fork while the tranny was off, and with a heavy clutch new master/slave cylinders are needed.

[JET]

You also likely have play in the pedal assembly, this can cause the same issue. There is a VFAQ on it I believe. A few have done it on here also. I am pretty sure Peter did and maybe Brandon.

[iceminion]

JET - My last line in my (long) post said I checked for play....unless I am doing it wrong, my assembly feels OK

Kracka- Questions answered in order listed:

use the GVR slave? I dont think so, I have a DSM Master now...so i would assume that I would need a dsm slave.

the problem I am trying to fix? um, the clutch engagement point should be about half was through the throw....not at the floor.

the PP is not that heavy, I would say its about as heavy as my ACT2100, for sure its lighter then my 2600....I have also removed the clutch fluid restricter in the slave cylinder.

The clutch does not fully release, its hard to go into gear, im sure its not good for my transmission.

the ball is new, and the fork looked fine, WHAT DOES A FAILED FORK LOOK LIKE?

[iceminion]

so.....can anyone think of a reason NOT to buy the FWD slave? displacement is smaller, so the same volume of fluid will make the clutch release point better?

remember if this was an all stock car then this would use all stock parts....but we are no longer in Kansas anymore...

[Kracka]

If you've already replaced the master, replace the slave and see if that helps.

[iceminion]

agreed! now, which one!

(anyone use a FWD slave on an AWD car?)

[JET]

Going to the smaller slave will make the pedal pressure higher, since you don't have the mechanical advantage. It will dissengange the clutch quicker, but give you a smaller dissengangement window. I don't see why the all DSM system would not work.

[Kracka]

Are AWD and FWD slaves even interchangeable? I think I remember getting a FWD slave for my AWD and it would not work.

[Kevin 1G Drummer]

I believe the way the FWD slave mounts to the tranny is different. I'm not 100% positive about that, so don't quote me on that.