Wideband Questions

[Gravy]

Picking up a few odds and ends the car needs and tried to do a little search, but found mixed answers on a couple questions, and opinion question for anyone.

Getting a Wideband O2 sensor installed in the car with a new A-pillar piece that will actually fit right on the car, and going to be running a boost//wideband up there. My question is, i've got about $300 to put towards one, and curious if anyone has had bad luck with one brand or another, or if as long as you go with a big name, you'll be fine. Will end up getting one more guage for the car, but think i'll replace the broken boost gauge in the dash for whatever i get(Stealth).

Another question i've thought up over the past few weeks of almost no posting online, and you can tell me to search on this one. But something i havn't run into yet, when you do a FPR do you leave your stock one in splice into the line before the stock's location or is there more involved?

Thx for any help, and sarcasm ahead of time.

[scheides]

For the FPR, yes, you need to remove the stock one if you put in an aftermarket one. You have to get fittings to fit where the stock one goes. I see you have a stealth, but there is a big camp here that says that the stock FPR will be fine on a mild to quite heavily modded car. I've had good results with both.

For wideband, I have been contemplating getting an Innovative setup for my evo w/ no gauge, the price is right and they have performed well for years, save for sensors going bad. I had a PLX M-250 w/ gauge on my 2G and I really liked that. The parts were all quality, and it always worked well, but for some reason it always read about half of a point lean compared to places I'd dyno....not aweful because then my car was showing overly rich when on the dyno so I felt comfortable, but still left me a bit uneasy. This is another thing that's nice with the Innovative widebands, they self-calibrate so they're always right on.

Also if I had to do it again (or, realistically get a wideband for my evo) I'd (again) get the the Innovative and skip the gauge. Logging is 1000% more valuable IMHO, because you'll be able to tune much more accurately. The gauge is cool and fun to use, but when it comes down to it you are constantly thinking, 'ok, I need to lean it out right around 5500...no wait it was at 5200 so I have to lean a little at 5000 and a little less at 5500...no wait it was at 5700...' Tuning from logs is much better than tuning from your memory.

Good advice on this subject is to just keep reading on it, keep searching!

[Gravy]

Thx for the input, going to be putting a logger on the car as well, just need to pick up a cable for a few bucks, just not high on my list of stuff at this point to pick up. But ran into one, i can't remember the name... i'm dead tired. But it has two outputs, for the guage and the logger as well. Going to do both so i can see if something isn't right quick, and let off the gas, and also look at the logs and see what needs to be changed instead of having my eye in 3 places at once.

I was going to try running the car first on just the 255 and see how it runs, and see if i will need the FPR or not. Most of what i've read on 3SI it ranges from vehicle to vehicle, and there's even a adjustable FPR that bolts right up to the stock location i was thinking of getting but wasn't 100% sure yet.

Have the TD05 plates coming for the turbo's, and one purchased, and another one to get shortly as well. Have a good portion of the engine bay taken apart.New lines and all sorts of other fun stuff going in as well.

[JET]

Just stay away from the AEM WB02, most of the rest seem pretty decent.

[92Laser]

Just stay away from the AEM WB02, most of the rest seem pretty decent.

Curious, why do you say nay to the AEM?

[Gravy]

I second that question, just so i know if it's something personal you dont like, flickering lights for example, or just bad luck with the unit before.

[scheides]

I had that FPR that bolted to the stock location, it was/is sold by buschur racing. It was a very nice unit. I just don't think it's needed until a way higher power level.

What are you going to be tuning with? AFC, or something more big-boy like AEM EMS? I don't know if there's an inbetween for the 3/S guys, but running big turbos on big injectors and a piggy-back unit like the afc is asking for trouble on those cars, as they tend to run too much timing and break.

[Gravy]

I'm looking to run either 450's or 550's(550's in the car now) with the SAFC and twin 14b's on no more then 10-11 psi for the time being. I"m not looking to set a record time for the stealths, or have a time goal to beat. Just looking for something a little bit quicker for the time being. If the motor blows, i'll probably do AEM EMS and a new built motor at the same time. But that's a while off.

Been running into the same thing on the forums, would like to stick to 450's if i can manage, but from what i've seen at or around red line the IDC's should be around 85%. Little high for my comfort.

[scheides]

85%? meh, that's nothing. I run 100% IDC daily on my evo :) Stick with the 450's and you will have less of a chance of blowing your shiz up!

That and a proper wideband and other tuning tools suggested in this thread!

[Gravy]

I'll have to run the car up to LSE to get it tuned sometime this spring, but i've got a few 450's sitting around, and can probably pick some up from a person on the forums here as well.

Know it won't do me much good, but i'm still debating if i should get a EGT or not, always let the car idle down so it shouldn't be a problem, can always get a turbo timer if i need to. But we'll see.