Clutch Problems

[iceminion]

I have a L4 Competition Clutch w/fidenza flywheel, all new.

I drove the car, but the clutch was not dis-engaging properly, so I red up on TREs website, and it says that you have to shim the pivot ball in order for the clutch to work properly.

So i pulled the trans off, threw a couple washers under it and put it back on the car, so here is a picture of how the clutch fork sits.

What i NEED TO KNOW is: is this the right resting place for the fork? keep in mind this clutch is completely different then a mitsu or an act clutch , the fingers on the pressure plate are almost completely flat

I DO NOT WANT TO PULL MY TRANS AGAIN, IT WAS GAY.

so, is this the correct?

Thanks alot!

[4seasons69]

it looks alright. it should be towards the drivers side of the center line of the release fork. look on vfaq theres a good bit about it on there.

[blageo23]

keep in mind this clutch is completely different then a mitsu or an act clutch , the fingers on the pressure plate are almost completely flat

How is that different then an ACT? Mine are flat and so was my stock one(if I remember correctly). Have you tried adjusting the clutch pedal? Or maybe try an extended slave rod(I have one for sale).

[Pushit2.0]

... threw a couple washers under it...

1 #10 washer does the trick, a couple might be to much. And when did a 1g clutch job become hard?

~John

[turbotalon1g]

^ i have no idea, i like to pull my transmission, 1hr at home on the floor that includes when i was passed out under the car too.

[Super Bleeder!!]

Hey come on give him some credit. Pulling trannies sucks, no one can deny that.

[iceminion]

I have pulled at least ten transmission with ease on DSMs

This is on a GVR4, which is a hybrid DSM/3000GT platform, something is difficult which made this just a little more difficult, I am used to doing the transmissions on the ground and this time I am doing it on a drive on hoist, that might also account for the difficulty. Anyways, its gay and I dont want to do it again.

I couldnt get the clutch to let go when it was un-shimmed, I put a socket on my slave cylinder rod, which allowed me to shift in to gear (barely) and thats how I got to drive the car.

Now, after the shim, my socket extension removed, I can get the clutch to let go, but still dangerously close to the floor (I tested this out by putting a 1/2 racket on the crank bolt, and trying to turn as hard as possible, and having my brother push down on the clutch pedal.

Straight from TREs website: "...and don't be tempted into trying a lengthened clutch slave cylinder rod. The only way to properly correct the clutch offset geometry is by shimming the pivot ball. By properly shimming the pivot ball your clutch will work much better and your transmission will thank you."

So now that I have corrected the geometry of the clutch, one would assume that it all works out fine, WRONG, still screwed.

so, how do i get this damn clutch to let go about 1/2 way through the pedal travel?

I can try putting the socket on the end of the slave cylinder rod, and since that helped before the shim, one would think it would help after the shim.

anymore input anyone? the system has been bled properly, master and slave are not leaking, do you think I should replace the master? I have a new one, but its not easy for a huge motherf*cker liek myself to get down there and unbolt everything.

Thanks

[JET]

You adjust the adjuster rod for the master cylinder. Prepare to turn into a pretzel, it is inside the car, direcly behind the master cylinder. It will be up above the gas pedal on the fire wall. It is a little black threaded rod.

[iceminion]

Yeah, about that, its already 95% the way out, I can maybe get one or two turns out of it, but thats it.....

[JET]

That is where the extended slave rod bandaid comes in to play. There is a good chance the pedal assembly has some slop in it, which adds to the problem.